| Author | Message | ||
     Hatch_daddy |
So I just replaced the clutch actuator cylinder and o-ring with the ebr part. Now my clutch lever has no resistance. ..dumb question but does the stock spring need to be inserted into the new piece? EBR says no stock parts are reused. Is it a bleeding issue then? | ||
| Two_seasons |
You've probably overfilled your reservoir. Bleed some out and try it again. There is a check valve in there IIRC that doesn't like it when you overfill. | ||
| Hatch_daddy |
Finished dinner and went at it again. More attempts to bleed did not work. Thankfully after the sleeve is set, the actuator can be removed by taking one nut off and not the whole clutch cover again. So Buell's triple asterisks of no longer a need to reuse stock parts isn't entirely true. The spring does need to be reused. Bleed again, and working. Clutch pull is much heavier than before. Guess that's what you get when you have a system that doesn't leak. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Good to hear  | ||
| Pgh_biker |
I had my clutch cylinder started to weep again. This was fixed at the Harley dealer about 2 years ago, and I thought this was one of the "good" methods of fixing it. Is there some wear parts that just need replaced? Or should I replace the whole thing with an EBR part? | ||
| Terrys1980 |
Harley most like put the same ferrous metal part that came from the factory. The EBR piece is stainless. | ||
| Hatch_daddy |
I think the original Harley fix reused the sleeve and actuator. They simply placed larger o-rings in the grooves. I'd recommend ordering the EBR part. It's like $99 plus some brake fluid. It would've taken just over an hour had I known the stock spring needed to be reused. | ||
| Buellfirebolt31 |
I have the EXACT SAME issue, except I used the spring the first time. I STILL can't get resistance on the lever. I fill up the reservoir, pump it, and nothing. I get fluid coming back out of the reservoir and out of the "bleeder valve", but the actuator ain't "actuating". I've pulled it out again, and it feels REAL right pushing the smaller piston into the case far enough for the curved nut to fit on. Any ideas? | ||
| Terrys1980 |
It took some time before my lever started having any kind of resistance. In fact I was about to take it back apart and it started working. I started the bike and moved it around then attempted to put it in gear. | ||
| Buellfirebolt31 |
I had the bike on the front and rear stands and started it. I put it in first without the clutch just to get the parts moving and air out. I even did a back bleed on the system by pushing air thru the bleed port to the master cylinder. Still not working. | ||
| Mhpalin |
I had the same problem when I did mine wrap a rag around the the bolt at the lever and crack that while pumping you will here the air come out.Worked for me Mike | ||
| Hatch_daddy |
It takes awhile to bleed the system. Even a small amount of air will cause fade in the lever. You may have to pump the hell out of the lever, hold it in, crack the bleed valve, close and repeat. That was the longest process of my swap.The only other thing I can think of is maybe your actuator is slightly cocked causing too much resistance to actuate in the sleeve. Or, did your internal threads spin when you were taking the nut off? That may mess up the travel on the actuator. | ||
| Buellfirebolt31 |
I've cranked the hell outta it and opened the bleed valve multiple times now; just fluid is coming out. I loosened the top banjo bolt while pumping, nothing. I'm about to put the old one back in. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Buellfirebolt31: You've probably overfilled the clutch fluid reservoir. Open it up and drain the fluid to about halfway in the reservoir. From there, start bleeding the line out. You may need two people to do this. Whatever you do, don't allow any fluid to get on any of your frame, paint, plastic pieces. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
don't put the old one back in.... 1) did you remember to install the "pre-load" spring in the slave cylinder...it is easily forgotten and it usually causes the old one to fly apart and loose itself somewhere in the dark depths of your garage... 2) water will mix with brake fluid ...if you start to spill some on the body work- have a spray bottle handy to spray it down 3) on the M/C side you can use aluminum foil from the kitchen to shield the fairing and lights from spilled fluid 4) for $30 at Harbor freight you can buy one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vac uum-pump-kit-69328.html it works well and I have done many clutch bleeds with one ( best time = 10 minutes)...you MUST make sure that the M/C does NOT run dry ( the vacuum works fast) 5) if your home depot or lowes still has it's summer BBQ stuff out...a meat injector ( for seasoning) can be used to reverse fill the clutch system ...suck some brake fluid up in the injector and connected it (gotta air tight with some poly tubing) and "fill" the system from the slave cylinder...don't over do it or you'll have brake fluid all over the fairing 6) do your best to "bleed the system" and then using a ty-wrap ...tie the clutch lever back against the handle bar and let it sit over night...the air will slowly work it's way up to the M/C and out of the system...( tap on the line with the handle of a screw driver to "break loose" any air bubbles before you call it a night... hope this helps | ||
| Buellfirebolt31 |
After a long and hard talk with my motorcycle, I got the clutch working. I bled it and bled it over and over. Got some resistance on it and filled the reservoir up. She's runs fine now. I feel like I have a different "friction zone" now, and it feels like it engages harder and sooner, but it's working!!! Thanks for alllllll the help!!!! | ||
| Hatch_daddy |
Buells are finicky creatures, sometimes they take a little coaxing. Nice, glad to hear it's working. Feels quite a bit different doesn't it. | ||
| Torquehd |
Buells aren't finicky. They're a world simpler to deal with than equivalent aged metric sport bikes. Even the water cooled Buells. Understanding the physics behind them is the key. As with anything. ie, if it's your first time bleeding a clutch, it might not make sense, so you just follow the instructions. But after you do if a few times, you gain insight into how it all works. And then it's cake. And a little bit of elbow grease. | ||
| Buellfirebolt31 |
I've bled it before, I've just never taken the secondary system out before. It seems to be working fine right now, but there may be something else up... When riding and coming to a stop, when I downshift to first and let the clutch out, the bike dies. It's happened three times. It did it while cold and hot. I can refire it and go, but it happened three times which concerns me. I understand the physics and concepts behind the motorcycle. Before I joined the Marine Corps I worked at Whitt's HD/Buell in Manassas, Va. And now, for my job, I'm a crew chief on C130's. I'm very mechanically inclined. I was just frustrated!!! | ||
| Nuts4mc |
there's a micro switch on the clutch perch...make sure it is still connected and working | ||
| Buellfirebolt31 |
I checked it out. Look kinda corroded. I took a toothbrush to it and cleaned it out. Will post when I ride it! Thanks for the help! | ||
| Hatch_daddy |
"Buells aren't finicky. They're a world simpler to deal with than equivalent aged metric sport bikes." It was a metaphor Torquehd. But if you'd like to talk simplicity about metric sport bikes....change oil-ride...change tires-ride. Doesn't get much more simple, actually more maintenance free than our metric counterparts. But they lack the uniqueness/originality Buells bring. | ||
| Buellfirebolt31 |
After cleaning the plug, and doing about 15 more minutes of bleeding the clutch, everything is back to normal. The friction is back to normal, the pull, theres no dying on decel, and the clutch is as smooth as can be. I'm happy now; I was just pissed I couldn't figure it out at first. Thanks for the help!! |
