| Author |
Message |
    
Matteson
| | Posted on Saturday, September 13, 2014 - 10:38 am: | 
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Wait a minute. Are there spacers other than the spacer in the hub? |
Tbowdre
| | Posted on Saturday, September 13, 2014 - 12:10 pm: |
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No other spacers... Just the one inside the hub, between the bearings |
Matteson
| | Posted on Saturday, September 13, 2014 - 01:29 pm: |
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Ya, I thought so. |
Ratbuell
| | Posted on Saturday, September 13, 2014 - 01:32 pm: |
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There is no scheduled bearing replacement.
Every time bearings are pressed in or out, the wheel is damaged. The "hole gets bigger" if you will. Making the hole bigger increases probability of spinning one.
Leave the bearings alone unless they exhibit problems. If it ain't broke.... |
Matteson
| | Posted on Saturday, September 13, 2014 - 08:08 pm: |
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Im wonderin if the swing arm isnt tweaked. |
Dennis_c
| | Posted on Saturday, September 13, 2014 - 08:46 pm: |
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also one bearing goes in first I forget whitch side it is maybe some one else can help with that. |
Matteson
| | Posted on Saturday, September 13, 2014 - 09:56 pm: |
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Rotor side first. Then spacer then pulley side. |
Dennis_c
| | Posted on Saturday, September 13, 2014 - 10:43 pm: |
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Since its officially a piece of trash I will make you a killer deal I will give you 2X the scrap metal price.  |
Matteson
| | Posted on Thursday, September 18, 2014 - 06:51 am: |
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New wheels, Skf bearings, and everything torqued to spec. Upon return of the wheels from the Harley tech I noticed the pulley side bearing was seated almost flush with the hub and that the spacer was tight. I don't believe that the last wheel had the bearing pressed all the way to the shoulder. They felt stout compared to the all balls bearing I had before. So I have come to the conclusion that all balls bearings aren't up to the challenge for the rear wheel strerss as they feel weak compared to the quality firm yet smooth feel of the skf's.
Another note. I pulled the rears myself and had the new ones installed for $21. $85 an hour was prorated. I never use a pro shop for anything but tire changes. I may now use them for bearing installs until I can buy the proper bearing driver tool for my Buell. The tech said they don't use a press. Just the all thread type mentioned in the service manual. |
Matteson
| | Posted on Thursday, September 18, 2014 - 06:56 pm: |
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The wife is still mad about all the expenses this summer though |
Ratbuell
| | Posted on Thursday, September 18, 2014 - 07:26 pm: |
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Apologize to her, and assure her you will, next time, do it right the first time 
Then buy her something nice. |
Matteson
| | Posted on Thursday, September 18, 2014 - 10:30 pm: |
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Lol . I know right. |
Shawns
| | Posted on Friday, September 19, 2014 - 05:46 am: |
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That's a slippery road. She may want more. |
Matteson
| | Posted on Friday, September 19, 2014 - 10:27 pm: |
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What, the bmw wasnt enough? |
Two_seasons
| | Posted on Saturday, September 20, 2014 - 04:11 am: |
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I had a machine shop make me a custom bearing installer for the rear wheel.
Basically a big bolt cut down to the same OD as the axle with fine, long threads. Two pucks with relief so the outer race ONLY is used to draw in.
Works perfect! Now I need to do it again for a front bearing installer.
I had the experts, a local Ducati dealer, install my front bearings for me. They got them in too tight against the spacer, like yours. Those bearings would have had a very short life.
I have the fine threaded bearing remover tool as called out and backed off the bearing very slightly. |
Matteson
| | Posted on Saturday, September 20, 2014 - 06:40 am: |
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Two seasons, I'm not saying the dealer is wrong for having it tight. |
Fresnobuell
| | Posted on Saturday, September 20, 2014 - 01:52 pm: |
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Two seasons, pic of your custom bearing tool please.
thanks! |
Dennis_c
| | Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2014 - 02:01 pm: |
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Install bearing on one side then spacer then the other bearing tap it in with a hammer go back an fourth on both sides like 12:00 an 6:00 then 3:00 an 9:00 tap very easy till the inner race of the bearing touches the spacer very lightly and it turns smooth if to tight it turns hard. Tools hammer, socket that touches outer race only, or the old bearing grind down the outside of so its a little smaller and drop into the wheel I also grind down the inner race so it does not touch the new bearing then torque to 50% on axel only. Think about this when you torque to 44 Ft Lbs with the taper on the axel you are pushing the inner race tighter together that makes the bearings harder to turn just like you installed the bearing on the tight side. |
Two_seasons
| | Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2014 - 03:14 pm: |
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Per your request Fresno...
The OD is 1.00" with deep threading, nut on one end and bolt head on other end. Note pucks, each has relief so only the outer race is contacted when pulling in the bearing. |
Dennis_c
| | Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2014 - 08:14 pm: |
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Two_seasons I have tried something like that unless your bolt is the size of the hole in the bearing it will not go in straight and you would have a lathe to make the washers I wish I had one. Unless you had better luck than me. |
Two_seasons
| | Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2014 - 09:31 pm: |
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This faux axle is exactly the same ID as the bearing. The pucks are slightly undersized to the hub with the pucks riding on the outer races due to the relief cut.
Easy to install the bearings/spacer horizontally. Anti-seize the hubs and the bearings slide in effortlessly. What I do is start the first bearing, install the spacer over the faux axle then add the opposite bearing. When installing the opposite bearing, I can feel, while turning the nut, when the spacer bottoms out at the other bearing inner race.
I do have to get over to Central Machining this winter for the front bearing installer  |
Dennis_c
| | Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2014 - 10:12 pm: |
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I have never tried anti-seize on the bearing hubs I will give it a try next time I hope its a few years from now. |
Two_seasons
| | Posted on Monday, September 22, 2014 - 09:45 am: |
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Anti-seize on the wheel hubs is where you want it. Allows for smooth insert/removal of bearings without the metal/metal/corrosion contact. |
Matteson
| | Posted on Sunday, September 28, 2014 - 03:56 pm: |
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I know you guys may not care but I think I will be trading for a 750 gsxr tonight. Never had a modern jap bike. I am a little nervous about it. I have posted on a couple forums about what to look for and no response all day. Unlike our forums.
(Message edited by MAtteson on September 28, 2014) |
Tbowdre
| | Posted on Sunday, September 28, 2014 - 04:27 pm: |
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I had a GSX-R750 for a long time. Sweet bike, fast nimble and sounded like a really pissed off wasp… loved it. BUT mine hated riding around town…. hated slow speeds… like less than 60 or 70mph…. and really hated anything less than 7000 - 8000 rpm. Going slow this thing just begged me to go faster…. it was really happy on a track, open road... canyon carving its a perfect machine. |
Sl33py
| | Posted on Monday, September 29, 2014 - 06:35 pm: |
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first sportbike was GSXR750 - totally different power band and likes revs. Great in the corners and liked to go fast.
You'll miss the low end grunt and flat torque, but nothing wrong with the gixxer. Ride safe and have fun! |
