| Author | Message | ||
     Staindred |
What a headache... For starters. My bike has 11700 miles on it, all street. Had 6000 when I bought it. Already had an FH012 VR and EBR ECM installed as well as all the deletes and so on. VR went at around 10500 with voltages going into the high 15's, replaced with FHO20, original stator went at 11000. Replaced with ricks hotshot, got me another 600 miles before it burned up. Got a US made Ricks stator and the EBR rotor installed last weekend. Bike happily charges above 14 volts now and was running fine. When I first slapped everything back together a piece of foam had actually gotten caught on the throttle cables and stopped the bike from revving. I went through the throttle position reset a million times trying to get it to work. You can imagine the facepalm. Today was the first day I've been able to have it out for a real ride and it was a blast. I put about 150 miles on it and was happy until I was on the last motorway part of my normal jaunt. I did a hard pull up to about 100 and then let off to change lanes and the bike defueled like it was out of gas. I smiled thinking I must have just run it out again considering my fuel indicator hasn't been accurate since I first ran it out of gas a week after buying it, but the problem persisted. What got me was the fact that the bike idled fine when I was coasting down the freeway and stayed running as I was limping it home. At minimal throttle the bike runs ok and idles ok but any more then that and it bucks hard intermittently. It cuts real quick and then climbs back up as if nothing happened. Went into DIAG mode and fuel pressure seemed OK at idle and I tried revving it up slowly to see if it would cut but it doesn't do it every time. The problem only seems to really happen when the bike is moving. Figures, right? I poked around with all the grounds, everything seems normal. I'm suspecting the fuel pump or something stuck in an injector. Anything I might be missing? I tried unplugging the O2 sensors and the bike sounds a lot healthier, I had been running with them in for a while to see whether it was leaning out or not and I guess it has been. First 3000-4000 miles I didn't use them. But it still cuts fuel. Forgot to mention that the bike is not throwing any codes whatsoever. Just an Air Intake Temperature fault cuz I probably cycled the key on with the airbox off at some point and an old system voltage code. I'm giving up on this bike. I took a rice-rocket GSXR750 for a test ride while I was getting a new tire on mine and I gotta say I felt the refinement. I missed the torque... but yeah. (Message edited by staindred on August 24, 2014) (Message edited by staindred on August 24, 2014) | ||
| Brokengq |
I may be missing something, but this sounds oddly familiar to this post. I understand that you aren't cutting out at a specific RPM, but it's an idea. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/743781.html?1406936533 I talked to Mike last week and he said it turned out to be a plug problem. Considering you're still shy of 12.5k miles I'm assuming you haven't done the valve inspection yet, and the plugs are original. I would try an ECM cleaning of the plugs and see if there is any improvement. HTH -Chris | ||
| Dwp138 |
Sounds a little like the issue that I am having. 09 CR with just under 12k miles. I have not pulled the motor yet but in my case I'm suspecting... Spark plugs , coil packs , clogged injectors , and or the ECM. Need a little time to pull the frame... | ||
| Brokengq |
@dwp I don't mean to be rude, but you don't need to pull the frame to do any of that. There are tons of how to's on removing the plugs without engine rotation or frame removal, the injectors are easily accessible on both cylinders, and the ECM is in the left pod. Shouldn't take more than an hour or two to check all of that. | ||
| Dwp138 |
gg I would like to check my valves for the 12k service that is due in 100-200 miles... Thats the only reason I am pulling the frame. I know I can just do a rotation , But I want to clean a few things up , and service the valves a little easier. just finishing up a 16 hour work day... | ||
| Brokengq |
Ouch. Yeah pulling the frame definitely makes that easier. Good luck  | ||
| Nuts4mc |
STred...kinda tough to trouble shoot online... 1) Ignition switch...the wires going to the switch are too short...pulls the switch apart...does it cut out when you turn the bars to full lock Rt or left?...does the IC go blank? 2) Motorcycles vibrate..electrical connectors don't like it...under the left pod cover (clutch lever side) is the ECM...may want to unplug it and re plug it in...just to make sure all the contacts are still connected..,it is a large connector with many wires and a pretty good mechanical connection...but those little contacts may be missing connection at speed. 3) How old is the battery?...charging system may be working but the battery can't store the charge...it would show up if you have difficulty cranking it over. 4) WASG...down by the engine pulley for the belt drive...there are some critical wires and sensors ...may want to look to see if they're "insulated"....the bike has a kickstand switch (European versions), but the wiring exists on the domestic versions ( no switch but the wiring is there) might want to make sure that the wire is not shorting out...(kick stand down= no ignition) 4) put some gas line/fuel injector cleaner in the tank...most fuels (gasoline) have alcohol in them now...water and alcohol mix...water doesn't combust too good...maybe you got a bad tank of gas...or if the bike has been sitting for a long time...condensation will occur. yea, the 750 'zuk is a nice scooter and with your short riding season may be the answer to your needs...but you'll miss the torque at every corner exit... HTH | ||
| Staindred |
Battery is good, bought new this year. The bike cranks fine and starts fine. No issues with IC or the wires. I had the headlight assembly off yesterday poking around at all the grounds after reading a couple threads that said that could be the issue. Bike does it going straight and turning. I had a good 5 miles from where it started happening to my front door to mess around with it. Had it up and down the street a couple times too. Will fiddle with kickstand wires and unplugging the ECM later. Bike sat for a couple weeks, not entirely sure how long, while I saved up and got all the parts and tools to do the rotor swap. Bad gas is a possibility, tank was relatively low when I let it sit before doing the work but I had filled it up at the pump before going out yesterday. Tried the ECM cleaning of the spark plugs. No change. Pulled both plugs which was way easier then I expected. Other then my extension and socket getting stuck together for a bit on the front one, it was easy. Anywho, both plugs are a nice golden brown. Possibly worn out but they certainly don't look like the cause of the issue. I was expecting one or the other or both to be burnt black or corroded. Looking more like the fuel pump or something in one of the injectors now, but I guess start with the cheap and easy stuff first. Gonna get two new plugs, put fresh gas in it since it is low with some cleaner, put it all back together and give it another shot before strapping it to the trailer and taking it to a dealer. It was gonna go in this fall at some point anyway for the valve adjustment and brake pads. I don't like messing with brakes and rotating the engine is a little past my mechanical patience at the moment. That just seems like too big a project after all I've done with the rotor/stator. I appreciate the help so far. Just want my bike back on the road. (Message edited by staindred on August 25, 2014) | ||
| Figorvonbuellingham |
Dont mean to veer off course here but how did you get a ricks "american made" stator? | ||
| Two_seasons |
You may want to check the routing of the throttle cable through the throttle body area. There is a hose there that is only supposed to be "so high" and that hose has been known to cause issues with TPS resets. I'm at work or I'd be more helpful. | ||
| Staindred |
In the last couple months between when I ordered my first stator and when I had to buy a replacement Ricks started offering a US made stator available here: http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/part/21-026USA /MDlCdWUxMTI1Q1I= Not a throttle position issue. | ||
| Figorvonbuellingham |
If its reading an air intake temp fault maybe that sensor is bad and throwing the ecu into a limp mode? My Aprilia will go into limp mode. Not sure about my CR. Ive been lucky enough not to have any issues like this. | ||
| Nobuell |
I have been having the same problem on my 08R. I have been pulling my hair out. I initially had loose steering found wires, no luck. I then thought was Injectors because it was showing a AFV imbalance between the front and rear cylinders. I replaced both injectors and no change. I have gone over every connection. Installed new O2 sensors and a new Crank Position Sensor, no change. The last time I test rode the bike, it was cooler than lately, it did not shut off like before but there was an underlying miss. I have new ignition coils that arrived today and a different EBR Race ECM to try. I will let you know how it goes. Let me know if you find any indications. By the way, I get no codes other than an old fuel pressure code but I believe it was from running low on gas at the track. | ||
| Staindred |
Went over all the connections again and replaced the spark plugs. No different. Gonna let a service technician handle it from now on. Needs the valve adjustment anyway. Money is on the fuel pump. | ||
| Nobuell |
I had my bike out at a track day Sunday and Monday. I found that the pump pressure is less than 517 with key on. The first day was on the south autobahn course. Early in the day I had no problem. Towards the end of the day, it sometimes cut out. It seems to me the pump is acting up when it gets hot. The last session, I filled the frame complete full of gas and it did not cut out. Today's event was on the full 4.25 mile track. This layout had quit a few longer straights but a much higher pace. This time it would run good for the first few laps then it would start cutting out once in a while. After a couple more laps, it started to regularly. No codes flashed. Since I just installed new coils, CPS, injectors, checked all grounds and check connections. No good. I think the pump is the culprit. | ||
| Nikoff90 |
Fuel filter been changed? | ||
| Nobuell |
There is no external filter. It is in the tank on the pump. It could be the filter. Sounds like my old MX Bike with a stuff in the float bowl. When I pull the pump, I will check the filter flow. | ||
| Staindred |
Bump from the depths... Just to wrap this thread up... Bike spent a month at my local Harley dealer. The service manager insisted on having his lead tech do all the work so it got pushed back considerably while the tech handled other "more important bikes". *cough* Harleys... Valve check was done, everything was checked over. The "rideability" issue or basically the cutting out was traced back to the Intake Air Sensor wires being faulty and possibly the rear coil pack being loose. Neither of those I believe. I'm assuming that while he did the valve check he tightened a ground I had missed or put a sensor back in that had rattled a little loose. Or the fact that the bike was running on straight fuel system cleaner might have unclogged whatever might have ended up in the fuel system. Service only cost about $400 for the whole deal. I went in expecting $1000+ but I'm used to fixing diesel trucks. Either way I've got my bike back and it seems to be running alright. I appreciate the help that was offered. Hopefully the other people with this issue figure it out. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
glad to hear you got it back...enjoy the fall colors! |
