| Author | Message | ||
     Pnw_uly |
Looking for some guidance / advice / opinions on what I suspect is a failing water pump in a 2009 1125CR. . . Had recently conducted a coolant service, replacing the stock coolant with the Amsoil Dominator Coolant Boost and water - - had flushed the system and topped off the reservoir with the prescribed mix and the result was the bike ran 5-10 degrees cooler with this new mix. Was at the track this weekend and noticed a little residue on the muffler - - it had exited the overflow tube that runs to the base of the engine on the right side. Pulled the pod and the reservoir was filled to the top!!! A check before the track had the reservoir filled exactly at the cold fill line, now it was at the neck. There was no "weeping" at the hole in the case that would signify that the water pump seal had failed, so I removed the "excess" from the overflow reservoir and ran the bike at idle to see if it would weep; it did not, and coolant temperature at idle did not exceed 192 degrees. So I ran the bike for a few more sessions without incident. Then after returning from a session the coolant temperature light came on... Dismounted the bike and saw the muffler coated in excess coolant from the overflow hose - - scrolled through the displays and the coolant temp showed 243 degrees. Still no "weepage" at the hole in the case, but probably safe to assume the pump has died. . . Any advice or guidance on confirming failure or should I just accept that it is done and start planning for replacement ? ? Not excited about this, as its a headers off, engine rotated effort. . . Appreciate any insights, not sure if this has been a common failure for the 1125s or if this instance is kind of an anomaly. . . Thanks in advance. | ||
| Stimbrell |
This can also be the symptom of a blown head gasket which is pressurising the coolant system. | ||
| Rodrob |
I doubt that it's the pump. Assuming that you have no other leaks, first check to see that your radiator cap is fully seated and tight. Sounds dumb, but I've seen it happen. Second, check that the radiator cap is good. A leaking cap will cause premature fluid evacuation into the overflow reservoir. This would seem to be the most likely cause. If you removed the "excess" coolant from the reservoir with out refilling the radiator, it is no wonder that the bike over heated. Start the bike cold with the radiator cap off and full fluid. You should be able to see some fluid flow. Once the bike reaches >160, the thermostat should open and you will see more aggressive flow or a drop in fluid level if the system is not full and bled. Your pump is working. Top off the radiator and install the cap so that there is no air in the system. Tipping the bike as far left as possible once the thermostat has opened, helps remove any air bubbles before topping it off. | ||
| Dennis_c |
To get at the water pump you don't have to rotate the motor. Hope its just low on water. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
My '08 has a bad squeek that I believe is from the water pump...bad bearing? At the worst point in time it would kill the bike at startup. Once warmed up, it goes away. Currently, it might sqeek for a couple seconds when stone cold and it doesn't come close to stalling the motor. Keeping my fingers crossed. However, w | ||
| Sl33py |
milky oil? | ||
| Pnw_uly |
First of all, thanks for the responses - - I'll try to answer them and hopefully will help shed some more light into what's going on... Assuming that you have no other leaks, first check to see that your radiator cap is fully seated and tight. Sounds dumb, but I've seen it happen.Second, check that the radiator cap is good. A leaking cap will cause premature fluid evacuation into the overflow reservoir. The radiator cap was sealed well, it even "burped" when I removed it. The overflow reservoir was about 1/4 full, about the same amount of fluid missing that I drew out. There was no coolant visible in the radiator ... I'm no mechanic, but seems that the fluid would flow into the overflow reservoir, or bypass the radiator cap itself before flowing out the lower overflow tube. . . I can see why it flowed out when the overflow reservoir was full, but why would it blow out of the tube instead of into the overflow reservoir after I had removed 4-6 ounces of coolant ? ? ? Here's a look at the coolant splooge:  The coolant vented from the rubber tube between the muffler and engine case. Luckily none (or at least not much) coated the rear wheel, that would have made for a challenging handling characteristic... Milky oil? Thankfully no, just clean oil on the dipstick - - was a cold check though... To get at the water pump you don't have to rotate the motor. Hope its just low on water I pulled the service manual and I thought it read to remove headers and rotate the engine, hope I either read that wrong or it is just "extra" that was put in the manual that is not really required. Thanks again for the input, appreciate any more insights if possible. . . (Message edited by PNW ULY on August 14, 2014) | ||
| Rodrob |
Forgive me if you know all this already. The overflow reservoir is part of the sealed system. In an over temp situation, pressure overwhelms the radiator cap spring and coolant flows to the reservoir from the bottom, maintaining an airtight seal. When the system cools down, coolant from the reservoir is drawn back into the radiator through the cap by vacuum. If one opens the radiator prior to the system cooling down, then the seal is broken and air is let in. Coolant in the reservoir will not be drawn back in and the engine will most likely overheat when run. Once air is in the system, the pressure that prevents boil over is lost and you can get severe coolant loss at that point. Boiling coolant can overflow the reservoir when it's not full. Whenever one opens the radiator, make sure the coolant is topped off all the way so that there is no air in the system. If you do not see coolant in the radiator with the cap off, then you will have temp issues. It's even a good idea to siphon coolant from the reservoir to fill the overflow tube prior to connecting it to the radiator, in order to eliminate that as a source of air. Always keep some coolant in the reservoir to prevent air from being sucked back into the system. | ||
| Skntpig |
Sorry to thread jack but I figured this would be better than opening a new thread. I've searched but still confused. I have a little coolant coming out of the hole in the cover. The bike is cooling fine. I read the thread about switching over all the parts to the 2010. I'm not interested in spending another $1,000 on this issue after replacing failing cams. Is the fix just replacing seals? Impeller looks good but that's as far as I got. Anyone have the 09 part numbers? I'm still not sure how this system works and what causes it to leak. Sorry for the dumb questions. I don't want to be the Trackday rider that wet the surface. (Message edited by skntpig on August 15, 2014) | ||
| Jdugger |
> This can also be the symptom of a blown head > gasket which is pressurising the coolant system. Yea, I had a bike suffering from this. It was a very low mileage bike that had sat around a lot until I got it. I found a used motor for $600 I swapped in -- cheaper than repairing the head gasket for me since I don't have the time to replace a head gasket myself. I'll eventually get that other motor rebuilt, but for now, a used mill got my back into operation. | ||
| Pnw_uly |
No issues "dumbing down" any responses for me - - appreciate the info so far. . . "Boiling coolant can overflow the reservoir when it's not full" Okay, this was the part I wasn't processing; as in why was the coolant exiting the system at the overflow tube instead of flowing back into the overflow reservoir that was less than half full... I had only removed 4-6 ounces of coolant, so surprised that amount led to the boiling which put coolant on the muffler instead of back in the reservoir. I suppose there could have been some residual air in the system from the coolant service a few weeks ago, and not sure if air in the system could have resulted in showing coolant all the way to the neck of the overflow reservoir, but that is what led me to remove coolant in the first place. . . So top off the radiator and make sure no air is in the system seems like the next logical step ? ? ? Let it cool then fill the overflow reservoir to the cold full line then ride to see if it presents the same issue ? ? ? Again, thanks for the assistance. | ||
| Oldog |
Pwn the basic procedure is to run the engine at idle and slowly add coolant until it is full and stays that way this is done cap off bike stationary I had to open my system last service interval due to loc-tite being miss applied.. expect at least 1/2 hour of idle and fill... good luck sorting this out. | ||
| Pnw_uly |
"expect at least 1/2 hour of idle and fill..." Thanks for that - - did have the bike idling when adding the coolant during the service, but probably not long enough to get all the air out of the system... Still odd though that after a few hundred miles the coolant level was "spot-on" the cold fill mark of the reservoir when checked cold. | ||
| Sl33py |
I will recheck mine as well since when we did the coolant flush it was done the same on both. we definitely did it slowly and at idle (no revving - read the manual and know this is a bad idea and start over). exactly 30 minutes... not sure, but not quickly and at least 15-20 minutes if not 30. Every time i've checked after a couple weeks of riding my radiator is full, and coolant in overflow is at the line (when checked cold). If there were a bubble of air it would go to the neck of the radiator and i could top off and be 100% - correct? | ||
| Pnw_uly |
Okay, been working on this and getting no love... Noticed after topping off the radiator that coolant was leaking from the radiator. Here's a few pics, showing the lower radiator, pointing to area where the coolant appears.  Residue at the top of the radiator...  Any chance a leaky radiator is the problem? ? ? Thanks in advance. | ||
| Smoke |
looks like it assuming that you have cleaned the area and the weepage keeps returning. tim | ||
| Pnw_uly |
Yep, it was all cleaned it all up; put a small catch can under the radiator last night after draining the overflow reservoir and topping off the system, this morning there was about 8 ounces of coolant that escaped... So, pretty obvious the radiator leaks, just wondering if this leak is what caused the aforementioned issue with the coolant "splooge". . . Any coolant system gurus have any insights? TIA. | ||
| Sl33py |
Ghetto Jimmy-rig possibility - some JB Weld on the seam and see if it stops? If so, then order a replacement Rad? Sucks man! Let me know when you want a hand and will come down to assist. | ||
| Sl33py |
Looked at the parts manual - right side rad (comes with new cap) PN: Q0021.1AMA I see it at American Sport Bike, but also found online for $99 which seems pretty reasonable. | ||
| Sl33py |
well crap. after a "fun" 14 hour day i went out to ride home... and found a puddle of coolant under my bike! Was dripping from the overflow hose. Popped the pod cover off and my overflow was overfull/overflowing (a drip at a time). Radiator was cold (not cool, not slightly warm), and when i popped it off i got the further joy of a coolant "bath" (spray under pressure). Overflow totally full, radiator showing fins (now minus the pressurized coolant). Had Jen bring my syringe and tube to transfer coolant from overflow bottle back into rad. Started the bike and took a few minutes to burp the system and button it back up. ROde home and parked it in the garage. Flew out for a work conference, and flying back now. What gives? What could it be? It's been running cool, no issues, for a couple months since PNW and I replaced coolant in both our bikes... 1k'ish miles and zero issues (over heating or leaking) before this. Will check when i get home as i marked the "hot" line when i parked on overflow bottle. thx! | ||
| Stimbrell |
Again, all the above are classic head gasket failure symptoms. I have seen the same from cracked blocks and heads in cars but that is rare, most common by far is head gasket failure. Honestly. |
