| Author | Message | ||
     Buellbaker |
Please could anyone tell me what to check first as these lights both came on tonight the engine one goes of now and again leaving just the battery one on. Voltage in the display was dropping all the time from 11.4 down to about 9 then the engine started running unevenly then cut out but would bump start. I've done around 12000 miles | ||
| Shawns |
Stator or vr will cause both lights. | ||
| Sl33py |
the voltage drop sounds like Stator. Just did this on my and PNW ULy's bikes a week or two ago. Stator output in voltage gets worst the hotter it is. If it's 14v at startup, but once at temp it struggles to stay 12+v, and then once it starts to get hot and fans kick on it drops further and further i'd say Stator. I don't recall the engine light coming on though. Just the batter/voltage light. I watched mine go to 9.8v and die in traffic before i got new rewind and EBR rotor. My first stator died at 12k (under warranty) - second lasted about 5k, now on 3rd and did it with non-HD/Buell parts to hopefully last longer. GL! Rob | ||
| Brokengq |
I would be interested in knowing what the code is. Theoretically, the check engine light can come on for a Comm Error with the ECM, which could be due to low voltage. | ||
| Bubba_ |
Agree with Broken. . Thinking i had a comm error with a low battery a few months ago. | ||
| Buellbaker |
The battery has now been on charge all night but has not charge up could it be just the battery that has died | ||
| Sl33py |
id definitely get a new AGM battery. If you were closer i could send you my old one since i upgraded to a Shorai. But i see you are in the UK. Do a quick search for stator test and there are some basic tests with a multimeter which should show you if your stator is bad as well. GL! | ||
| Buellbaker |
On looking at the bike today it's seems to be over heating it have fumes coming out of what seems to be the crank case breather not sure what the reading CT means but that is high 80 into the 90 bike started ok with no warning light on but battery is fading | ||
| Brokengq |
CT is coolant temperature. Usually runs from ~170-210 degrees depending on weather and traffic/riding style. | ||
| Stimbrell |
As the OP is in the UK the coolant temp will be set to Celsius, not Fahrenheit so will be below 100 degrees. Buellbaker, where is the pipe you believe to be the crank case breather, I think you are looking at the fuel tank vent, in which case in the weather we are having the fumes are normal. I suspect you have a duff battery probably caused by stator failure, well known problem with this bike. | ||
| Hildstrom |
My battery was very weak after having stator problems and a couple deep discharges. To test your battery, charge it as much as possible, let it sit without charging for 12 hours, then measure the "rested" voltage as described on pages 9-10 of this manual: http://www.northerntool.com/images/downloads/manua ls/167988.pdf My rest voltage was around 12.1-12.2, but a few days on a desulfating charger brought it up to 12.4-12.5. After a few weeks it was nearly back to full capacity. If it's too low, you may need a new battery. Here's how to test your stator. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=290431&post=2412495#POST2412495 | ||
| Buellbaker |
The breather I'm looking at is squire/rectangular | ||
| Stimbrell |
Can you describe where it is, or better yet post a photo? Even if it is the crank vent it could be a symptom of the charging problem resulting in the bike misfiring. | ||
| Buellbaker |
the clear picture is engine not running second running   | ||
| Buellbaker |
Has anybody done the rotor and stator upgrade in the uk if so where did you get It from and at what price | ||
| Sl33py |
There is a kit from twinmotocycles.nl, which is obviously closer than from the states. Unsure with currency conversions which would be cheaper. I'd look in the stator Rewind section for a uk rewind company, or buy a ricks hotshot. The HD/Buell OEM is over $500. If also recommend the EBR oil jet modified rotor. Either from EBR or twinmc. A little bit of reading and help from this group and even I could do it! GL! Rob (Message edited by sl33py on July 18, 2014) | ||
| Buellbaker |
Does anyone in the uk have a crank locking tool they would like to sell | ||
| Sl33py |
twinmotorcycles.nl has one. I've been contemplating buying one to have for future needs (and to lend out), but was hoping to get one from EBR (a lot less w/ conversion and shipping from NL). Here's their stator, with some links to the process, and tools: http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/webshop/artikel.asp? guid=YXHFSC&aid=5768&cid=5152&s=&a=&aname=New_Buel l_1125R_and_1125CR_2009-2010_stator I thought they had a total "kit", but didn't see it. Someone may provide a link if they have it handy. GL! Rob | ||
| Sergeant_b |
Question, I have the 08 1125R, I had the battery, fuel and engine light come on this morning. The fuel light is probably just a fuel light; I recently replaced the battery so I think I’m good there. It has 12,000 miles on it and other than oil changes, brakes and tires I haven’t done much to it. Do I understand from the previous posts that this could be a stator/rotor problem, if so will it damage the bike to drive it to the shop to get it worked on, if I choose not to do it myself? | ||
| Terrys1980 |
Sergeant the 08's don't typically have the stator issue. It won't hurt anything to drive it to the shop. It will run as long as the battery has juice. If the stator did fail the battery will get drained quick due to a short in the stator. I would at least check the voltage at the battery and stator output voltage before doing anything else. If I had to guess it is the voltage regulator. | ||
| Sergeant_b |
Thanks, I will check that today. | ||
| Tommymac92 |
Good or bad timing here. I just had a similar problem. I had the stator and VR replaced under warrantee 2yrs ago. This past winter I dod the rotor swap and figured all was good. But at idle the battery light would come on. All the components are new and have less than 500 miles on them. The bike had been on a charger for the last several weeks. I fired it up yesterday. The battery light went on before I started it but then went off at idle and the numbers on the volt meter looked good. I left it off the charger overnight and tried again today. The voltage has dropped and then the CE light came on and it said system voltage. I am assuming its the battery even though thats pretty new. I will probably replace the battery as well as test the VR and stator just to be sure. Are there any good sources to get a high end battery for the 1125? | ||
| Terrys1980 |
The Shorai LFX21L6-BS12 is the one you want. | ||
| Tommymac92 |
Seems like my problem is the VR I tested it yesterday and it seems to be the problem. I will see about ordering an aftermarket one and may attempt to relocate it as well for better cooling. | ||
| Reepicheep |
What kind of testing did you do, were you seeing voltages above 15 volts on a connected battery with a running motor? | ||
| Tommymac92 |
I used a voltage meter to check resistance. There are some good you tube videos on how to do this and just went through all of it on my triumph (burnt out stator) SO I did the regulator first and it failed the test. | ||
| Reepicheep |
A digital volt meter set to measure resistance (Ohms) would allow some good tests on the stator (for example, any wire with a low resistance to ground indicates the stator is bad). I'm not sure how you would do a reliable test of the regulator using a volt meter set up to measure resistance. | ||
| Tommymac92 |
My mistake, it was set for the diode test as per ricks video. Now this leads to my next question, whats the best option for a replacement regulator. is the oem stuff ok or should I go aftermarket. | ||
| Shawns |
You can go either way. The CE605SB Is the one most people use. Here is a pic of how I mounted mine. These aren't a shunt style so its easier on your electrical system. The disadvantage is they don't fit in the stock location and they need airflow. I made mine out of galvanized sheet metal, bent it wit a few pairs of vice grips and painted it with engine paint.     | ||
| Reepicheep |
I'm trying to picture how the diode check would work for the regulator... It might work for a very simple shunt regulator, at which point you would actually be checking the rectifier bridge, not the regulator part of it. What voltage do you see on the battery with the bike running, and the bike not running? | ||
| Tommymac92 |
Heres the link I used. http://www.youtube.com./watch?v=kDx3zgOLShY | ||
| Reepicheep |
OK, he was just testing the diode bridge. I wouldn't trust that, too many ways to get it wrong. When you start the bike, what voltage do you see between each stator wire with the stator and regulator disconnected. Then what voltage do you see across the battery when you have everything hooked up, and the bike is running? |
