Author |
Message |
Ohioburrhead
| Posted on Friday, July 04, 2014 - 01:56 pm: |
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Hi I have a 2008 buell 1125r update from starter issue to having just the starter whine (spins) and no engine turn over. Any ideas what it might be I would upload a video of what it does but not sure how too. Says its too big I guess...lol |
Shawns
| Posted on Friday, July 04, 2014 - 02:19 pm: |
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You can post it to Youtube and post the link. You might just have a bad starter. The pin that hold the gear on may have worked its way out or has sheared. |
Ohioburrhead
| Posted on Friday, July 04, 2014 - 02:43 pm: |
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Ok thanks maybe I'll try to upload to youtube |
Ohioburrhead
| Posted on Friday, July 04, 2014 - 03:33 pm: |
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http://youtu.be/Svx7o7EvTs4 here is the link to the youtube video |
Shawns
| Posted on Friday, July 04, 2014 - 03:53 pm: |
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I would gather it's one of 2 things. Either the starter drive gear is not spinning or its worn and not engaging the starter ring gear or that may be bad as well. I would pull the starter and check the drive gear. The ring gear would require more work like removing the stator side cover and rotor. Do you have a manual? |
Ohioburrhead
| Posted on Friday, July 04, 2014 - 04:56 pm: |
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Nope don't have a manuel for taking the bike apart. The day before when I tried it the battery acted like it was dying then it would start but now the dying part is gone so this is where I'm at...sad I know |
Figorvonbuellingham
| Posted on Friday, July 04, 2014 - 06:06 pm: |
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Put it in gear and rock it back n forth. If there is a bad tooth on the ring gear maybe you can get it past it. |
Brokengq
| Posted on Friday, July 04, 2014 - 06:35 pm: |
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Sprag? |
Shawns
| Posted on Friday, July 04, 2014 - 06:46 pm: |
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Pm me and ill get ya the info ya need |
Ceejay
| Posted on Friday, July 04, 2014 - 10:43 pm: |
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I've heard other starters just spin when they aren't getting enough juice - those are typically vertical mounts that are dirty though, where the centrifugal force kicks in before it spins up the shaft. If your having battery problems it may just be a bad or loose connection that isn't getting you enough amps to kick the bendix into engagement. |
Brokengq
| Posted on Friday, July 04, 2014 - 11:11 pm: |
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I have a spare starter you're welcome to try. Just pay deposit and shipping via Paypal. I'll give you your deposit back after you test it...I like having spare parts, so I would like it back. |
Brokengq
| Posted on Friday, July 04, 2014 - 11:13 pm: |
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@ceejay, what bendix? The 1125 uses a non-bendix drive starter. It uses a sprag clutch on the starter gear in place of a normal bendix. (Message edited by brokenGQ on July 04, 2014) |
Coastrambler
| Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2014 - 03:28 am: |
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Mine did that. It was the Sprauge clutch. Parts readily available from HD. Not cheap. |
Nuts4mc
| Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2014 - 09:44 am: |
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ohio...if you do a search for "sprag" under the "1125r" forum you'll see a few "hits"...here's one that has some pix to maybe show you/help you what's going on... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/686910.html the sprag "clutch" is a one way "gear" that only engages a drive/motion when spun in one direction( like driven by the starter motor)...it uses a series of ramps and rollers to achieve this action...HINT check your oil drain plug magnet for metal shavings...it's a good indicator that something is wrong inside. hope this helps |
Brokengq
| Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2014 - 11:12 am: |
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I had my sprag fail too. I have a parts list available if you want it. New Castle HD had the best prices for me. |
Ohioburrhead
| Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2014 - 12:48 pm: |
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Ok guys thanks will give the oil plug a look for shavings and really appreciate all the help as well from everyone |
Ceejay
| Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2014 - 01:27 pm: |
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I've never seen an 1125 or a lot of motorbike starters - never needed to get into them, but bendix, sprag - doesn't much matter. They are designed to reach a certain speed and engage - they are very specific to that rotational speed, and for good reason as they need to disengage as soon as the starter button is released. Burrhead stated he was having trouble with his battery at one point, which leads me to believe that the starter isn't getting enough juice as I have seen it happen in other applications, usually due to poor connections. If it were me, I'd check those connections and the battery voltage and amperage if possible first. I agree that you may end up needing a new starter, but start with some diagnostics first - you may also be able to pull the starter and get it checked before you go and buy a new one. |
Two_seasons
| Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2014 - 01:37 pm: |
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Ohioburrhead: Drop the muffler and pull the oil pump sump screen too. That will be another area that accumulates debris, if there is any. Check any debris you find with a magnet. Some here have found cam chain tensioner pieces in there, not magnetic but looks like it is. |
Brokengq
| Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2014 - 02:35 pm: |
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The 1125 starter is different. If you haven't seen one I don't blame you for not knowing. I was being a smart alec. The starter is always engaged however, and because of this does not require the starter to reach a certain speed to engage. There is no mechanism that pushes the gear out to contact a flywheel. It is always meshed in. The starter spins a gear that is on a special bearing. This bearing can only spin in one direction, and locks in the other. When the starter is engaged, it spins the inner race of the bearing, which locks the gear on the crank, allowing the engine to turn over. Once started, the rotor spins the outer race of the bearing, which is allowed to free spin. The starter gear then stays stationary while the rotor spins around it. It is a much more reliable system, unless that bearing fails. The bearing is in constant motion near some crucial parts. If it fails it will shred metal into the engine. (Message edited by brokenGQ on July 05, 2014) (Message edited by brokenGQ on July 05, 2014) (Message edited by brokenGQ on July 05, 2014) |
Ceejay
| Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2014 - 10:33 pm: |
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nice! Thanks for the clarification. I might have to check one out sometime. |
Coastrambler
| Posted on Monday, July 07, 2014 - 01:33 am: |
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V-Rod motor has same type of starter. |
Brokengq
| Posted on Monday, July 07, 2014 - 01:34 am: |
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$400+ new for a starter last I looked. |
Chameleon
| Posted on Thursday, July 24, 2014 - 10:41 pm: |
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How many miles on your bike? My sprag clutch gear & flywheel teeth were worn out by 2011-06-21 at 62,711 miles. You should get a Service Manual (not Manuel, unless that's your mechanic's name), but be aware that the latest procedure for replacing the stator rotor nut has changed to require 295-300 FtLbs torque and the stronger red Loctite. We didn't know when my friend helped me replace my sprag & flywheel and my bike has pretty much been down since then. |
Ceejay
| Posted on Saturday, July 26, 2014 - 03:49 pm: |
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Ohioburrhead - (great name BTW) Did you get it figured out? |
Ohioburrhead
| Posted on Tuesday, August 12, 2014 - 02:37 pm: |
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hi guys sorry been frustrated for the past month and a half no riding and now Harley dealership has my bike. they got is started was the Sprague clutch all the bearings were flat spotted. now the problem is when its running there is a loud knock coming from the area where the fixed it they thought it was normal I said hell no it didn't have a knock. anyone else have this problem after changing the Sprague clutch out? |
Brokengq
| Posted on Tuesday, August 12, 2014 - 02:45 pm: |
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Sounds like the rotor nut is loose. |
Ohioburrhead
| Posted on Tuesday, August 12, 2014 - 03:48 pm: |
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just talked to the Harley guys they're gonna order another Sprague clutch and see if that clears up the knock noise ...this is frustrating as hell not able to ride and for them not to know for sure what it is |
Froggy
| Posted on Tuesday, August 12, 2014 - 03:54 pm: |
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It likely is just the rotor nut, they likely didn't install it correctly. Depending on what they read, they might even be using the outdated installation procedure. The new procedure:
quote:4. Clean the threads of the crankshaft and crankshaft nut ( ALWAYS USE A NEW NUT ) with brake cleaner Note Where LOCTIDE 272 ( red ) is unavailable , Use LOCTIDE 278 ( red ) 5. Install the flywheel nut a. Apply LOCTITE 272 ( red ) to the threads and the mating face off the crankshaft nut. b. Tighten to 285 NM ( 210 ft-lbs ) c. Back off the nut counter clockwise approximately 720 degrees d. Tighten to 285 NM ( 210 ft- lbs ) e. Back off the nut counter clockwise approximately 720 degrees f. Final tighten to 400 NM ( 295 ft-lbs ) 6. Remove the crank shaft locking tool 7. Install the plug and tighten to 15 Nm ( 11 ft-lbs )
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