| Author | Message | ||
     Brokengq |
Hey guys. I know I'm asking a question that has been asked a lot, but I've tried everything I've read to no avail. EBR ECM + Barkers on my bike, and more often than I would like it dies either at idle or on take off. Runs great with the work I've been doing to it, starts great, but for some reason just dies erractly. Happened 3 times on my short stint to wally world this afternoon. 3 miles round trip. Once while running and backing it out of the garage, and twice while bumping the throttle at stop signs. Fuel pressure looks good, tps has been recalibrated, new battery, stator tested good, new plugs, and (I doubt it makes a difference) new sprag. Thanks guys. -Chris | ||
| D_adams |
Large throttle bodies. Don't blip the throttle. | ||
| Pmjolly |
I had tech stall mine at a local track day when they were checking for a smooth throttle. They blipped it, and it died. Like Dean said, you just can't dump the throttle at idle. It dumps too much air at once for the fuel injection to keep up. If it is dying at other times, like when downshifting using the clutch, check your clutch switch for proper operation. You can do this through the diagnostic screen on the ECM. I found a sticking clutch switch on a buddy's 1125R that kept stalling on downshifts. I unplugged it, and the bike quit stalling. It did pretty much remove the engine braking, however. He is going to replace it. | ||
| Brokengq |
Ok I'll avoid blipping the throttle on my ride tomorrow. What about shutting off at idle though? I started my bike and let it warm up while I geared up yesterday...knocked off as soon as I tried to move it out of the garage. All leg power, didn't use the motor at all. It just idled. | ||
| Dhays1775 |
Have you tried doing a tps reset to see if that helps? Also, that's the reason I don't rev the engine. Also because all the squids around here do it enough. And, the RT-3 is a little on the loud side... edit: sorry, I just saw that you reset the TPS.  (Message edited by dhays1775 on June 04, 2014) | ||
| Pmjolly |
If the idle is slowing down and it is dying, you might need to clean the idle air control. A few sprays of B12 Chemtool fixed mine when it would idle slow then stall. Just spray some fuel injector cleaner down the little rubber hose that sticks up into the bottom of the airbox near the throttle bodies on the right side. You can also get at it inside the throttle bodies. Be very careful. Cover everything and wear safety glasses. If you spray it in there, then start it, it will likely spit it back out at you and everything else. Injector cleaner will attack powder coating and plastics. I sprayed it in the IAC, then started it. It shot out like Old Faithful. It worked better spraying it with it running. | ||
| Georgehitch17 |
Mine used to do the same thing. I was told to unplug the cable that tells the bike when the clutch is engaged located underneath the switches on the right side handle bar. You wont be able to start the bike when its in neutral but it stopped dying at every take off. I'm not sure what it changed but it helped big time on mine. I thought maybe it was in my head but if any shop every plugs it in I can tell in a thirty minute ride that its been messed with! | ||
| Brokengq |
Do you have pics or a description of the location of that plug? Is it possible you mean the clutch interlock switch? That's the only one I can think of, but its on the left, not the right. (Message edited by brokenGQ on June 05, 2014) | ||
| Brokengq |
Update. My bike now shuts off at EVERY take off. I've made it 12 feet out of my garage. I tried unplugging the clutch interlock, and the bank angle sensor. No luck. My best description of what's happening is; start the bike, drop in gear, start to let clutch out, begin to roll about 3 inches, bike dies. I even tried taking off at different RPMs. No difference. (Message edited by brokenGQ on June 05, 2014) | ||
| Brokengq |
Disregard gentlemen. Problem has been tracked down. Here's a hint. It only happened when I turned right. I'm an idiot. Thanks for your help though! | ||
| J20td |
So what was it? | ||
| Brokengq |
Well my reasoning now is a broken wire in the ignition switch. The bike runs and idles fine. If you turn the handlebars right, it shuts off. I managed to take it for a little spin after my first post tonight. Just went around the neighborhood. Funny thing is, all the turns to go around my neighborhood are lefts, until the last one. When I went to make that right, it died. Started to click in my head. Out of the 3 stop signs it died at the other day, 2 were rights. One I was going straight. Its dark and late now, and the warden (fiancee) is getting mad at me for playing too much and making her wait 3 hours for dinner (Lol). I'll play with it tomorrow. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
go here ...scroll down for pix: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/688333.html or you can add wires to the harness to allow for the "stretch" | ||
| Brokengq |
Thanks Nuts4mc. Can anybody think of anything else it could be/that I should look at while I have the fairing off? | ||
| Nuts4mc |
"grounds" - check your grounds - there is one connection (call a spade a spade or call it a "flag") "on" the steering head "casting"...couldn't find you a pix - but it is there...when you remove the fairing mount from the frame you may see it.... I went with a belt and suspenders approach...scroll down for pix and P/Ns http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/674577.html | ||
| Reepicheep |
Classic symptom. You will likely find a wire internally broken (insulation still intact) in the bundle going out under the steering head and under the frame. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Warden, now that there is funny...  | ||
| Brokengq |
Reepischeep, close. The wire was broken inside the switch itself. All the strands were still attached at the solder joint, the wire and insulation were both broken about 3/8" away from the joint. Fix was to desolder the original joint, and solder in a new 1.25" piece of wire. Soldered the new wire to the old and heat shrunk. Reassembled and filed down the fairing stay where the wires contact it. Took it for a short spin and all seems well. If it ever breaks again I'll probably remove the entire switch and solder in longer heavier gauge wires. |
