| Author | Message | ||
     Cleveland11b |
So, last week my 09 1125 was acting funny. Neutral was almost impossible to find, not the usually really Buell hard to find, almost not there. After a couple minutes of careful looking I found N. In neutral it was pulling a little. Almost imperceptible, but pulling as if it was maybe 5% in gear. Not enough to actually move the bike from a stop but just enough so you could feel it. I rode it around the block and went through the gears a few times and stopped at times in N and it was still doing it. As a last resort non mechanic means of trying everything I did a clutch-less downshift (I never do that regularly) I always clutch shift. Anyways after that hard clutch-less downshift it stopped doing it. Haven't ridden it since then, kinda want to make sure it isn't something serious and just a temp fix that will break something if I go out and beat on it. I`ve had the bike less than a year and have only done breaks, tires, and recently dumped the cheap oil it came with (screaming eagle) and switched to Amsoil. I am going to guess that it is all stock as I got it with 5k miles and no visible upgrades. I doubt the previous owner did any internal upgrades. Any advice? Thanks. Adam | ||
| Dennis_c |
Could it be the round wheel on the clutch lever set on the wrong #. There is less pull on the clutch on # 5. #1 is the most. Just a guess. | ||
| Dntndhd |
I had a similar situation. The clutch slave cylinder leaked like their prone to do, so I was low on clutch fluid. Started out hard to find neutral, eventually got the creeps when at a light in first gear. Pull the clutch puck and check for fluid behind there | ||
| Jdugger |
If it's the low fluid condition it's easy to feel that in the lever. At the point the clutch disengages you have significantly more pressure than the loose flop in the lever caused by low fluid. That said, I've diagnosed this condition on probably a dozen of these bikes brought to me at track days over the years and I'm shocked when I walk over to the bike, pull the lever, and yup, that's the problem. I ask these guys "you can't feel that?!?!" and nope, they can't or don't notice at all. To me, it's a night and day difference. If it is the fluid low condition, go ahead and buy the EBR slave cyl solution, you are going to need it shortly. | ||
| Cleveland11b |
The clutch is just as firm all the way through the pull. I took it out for 30 min today. At the start of the ride it was fine with no indication of the problem. after the bike was hot it was doing it again, barely pulling in N, with some chatter to indicate it was about 5% in gear. | ||
| Cleveland11b |
So the solution is http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/parts-accesso ries/clutch/ebr-clutch-actuator-cylinder-kit.html ? | ||
| Sprintst |
The EBR kit is a nice improvement | ||
| Cleveland11b |
But will it fix the problem? | ||
| Dhays1775 |
Have you pulled the clutch cover puck to check that the slave is not leaking? If it isn't leaking, there may be some air in the line. Once that has been ruled out, it might just take a little adjustment of the spherical nut to adjust the pull on the clutch when you squeeze the lever. You should try the free stuff before the expensive stuff. Good Luck!! | ||
| Nuts4mc |
brake fluid is hygroscopic...it absorbs water...been a long winter in Cleveland...might want to change out the "Brake Fluid" in the clutch system (water boils at 212F it makes steam (a gas) and it can be compressed))...if you can find it back there Motul makes some Hi Temp brake fluid that works well...a brake bleeder kit from Harbor Freight make the job easier. (grew up in Highland Hts...used to run from Rt6 and River Road (Squires Castle)down to Chagrin Falls...watch out for the radar trap just before you go into CF to gas up!)...hope this helps. | ||
| Cleveland11b |
I went to the local KawaHondYamaZuki mechanic today. Just by feeling the slight pull when the engine is warmed up he says I need an all new clutch. I`m not doubting his experience I just want to know if anyone has heard of this issue. He said that the steel plates in the clutch are warped and when it gets hot they don't "mesh" right and that`s why in Neutral it feels like it`s almost in gear. His opinion is that because I do not ride hard and beat on the clutch that caused the issue. The bike has 7k miles, 2k since I bought it last year. It was fine when I bought it so the clutch issue is because I don`t ride aggressively enough. H also wants me to order some kind of kit that replaces the "slipper" in the clutch. Says it will fit my riding style better. Anyone have this issue before, or any advice. | ||
| Kruizen |
Can't say I've had your issue but have had just about every other clutch issue. pull the clutch in and wack the throttle if it stops pulling then you just unstuck the plates. try changing your oil. new plates are around $200. what is this kit he is recommending. what does he mean by "mesh right" | ||
| Cleveland11b |
When the engine is cold it acts normal. The issue as described above only occurs when the engine is hot. The mech says that when they get warm the warping is apparent. I just changed the oil a month ago, thats when the issue became noticable. | ||
| Kruizen |
The plates are bathed in oil. What oil did you use? | ||
| Cleveland11b |
amsoil | ||
| Kruizen |
You said when it didn't start until you changed the oil, I'd change it again. Try the simple things first | ||
| Nuts4mc |
like Kruizen sez ...try the simple things first... 1) change the oil 2) change the brake fluid in the clutch system new clutch disks (kit= fibre and steel) are available from American Sport Bike ...they are made by Barnett and work well...cost is about $250. wet clutches are made up of two distinct parts or plates...Driven plates: they have external "tabs" ( these are the fibre plates)and are driven by the clutch basket...the drive plates are stamped steel and have an internal "spline" stamped into their profile...they drive the inner hub which is attached to the transmission...the springs in the clutch force the last plate to compress this "sandwich" and the driven clutch plates through friction and pressure engage and turn the steel drive plates, which turns the hub and the tranny. if anything the steel plates have become "coated" with a mixture of oil and fibre disk material...making them sticky or slippery...you could try to disassemble the clutch (if you're a good shade tree mechanic ...it's not a hard job)and resurface the plates ( tape some 200 grit emery cloth to a flat surface and make "figure 8s" with the plates ...both sides)...but the fibre disk surfaces could also be "cooked" ( you could try to remove the cooked surface with some 320 grit and a flat surface)but the resurface job won't last long ...they will stick or slip again...try the simple stuff first then start saving those pennies for the new clutch kit. | ||
| Mackja |
Bleed the system flush out the old fluid first, then replace the slave cylinder. Mine will act up every now and then, flushing out the system works for me. I use mine on the track only so it gets a lot of hard use. | ||
| Duanelr |
Oberon clutch slave cylinder, $185.00 EBR clutch actuator cylinder, $99.95 Why such a large price difference, what more do you get for the extra $85? | ||
| Wymaen |
The cylinder sleeve on the EBR unit is made of stainless steel; the Oberon sleeve is machined from aluminum. http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/models/1125r/ ebr-clutch-actuator-cylinder-kit.html http://www.oberon-performance.co.uk/acatalog/Buell _Clutch_Slave_Cylinders.html |
