| Author | Message | ||
     Wisco |
I need some help here. Yesterday I laid the bike down doing about 50mph and The rear brake assembly snapped off. Is that attached to the crank case? I can't figure it out for the life of me. I took a picture of what I'm talking about, if anyone could steer me in the right direction I would appreciate a lot.  | ||
| Sprintst |
Bearer of bad news - YES, that is part of the crank case. Crap On the plus side, it *should* be repairable I think (Message edited by sprintst on May 11, 2014) | ||
| Cataract2 |
JB Weld or find a welder who can fix that. Otherwise, new case for that area. Would probably need to be retapped as well. Not good all around. (Message edited by cataract2 on May 11, 2014) | ||
| Wisco |
That is what I figured. Looking at ebay I should be able to get a different one relatively cheap. How difficult is it to swap that out. I've worked on snowmobiles and four wheelers but never a bike..? Can you just take the right half of the case off and replace it with the right half from the other one ? | ||
| Wisco |
HOw would you guys go about fixing it? From what I can tell this isn't a very common thing to have happen haha just my luck. I'm thinking a new case would be best? | ||
| Nuts4mc |
JB weld it ...see if it is possible to drill the mounting hole all the way thru the mounting boss...use a washer and self locking nut on a longer bolt...doesn't need to be "threaded/tapped" into the boss with that type of repair....the stress will be on the bolt, not the repaired case...hope this helps | ||
| Wisco |
Okay, I believe I understand what you are saying. I'll give that a go. Also one more question, what is the crank case made of? Can it be welded, I do know how to weld? Thanks for all the help guys! I really appreciate it. | ||
| Larryjohn |
Wisco, I had a similar situation but in my case only the upper tang broke. I debated a JB Weld fix but went for having a weld repair done. I was concerned that the JB Weld would not hold up to the heat cycles. I'll post a photo of my repair. | ||
| Dannybuell |
Are you OK? | ||
| Larryjohn |
Before  After  | ||
| Wisco |
Yes, I am okay. I was wearing all my gear. Unfortunately I was only wearing jeans so I've got some mean road rash on my knee (have riding pants on the way already). But backpack, jacket, gloves, and jeans are all toast. LarryJohn, how difficult was that to do? Is there anything I'd need to watch out for with that sort of repair? The bolts will still thread into what's left of the mounts and are actually very solid. I may just try to JB weld/weld the pieces back on as I went and managed picked them all up today. Says JB weld can stand up to temps of 550 degrees. Bike shouldn't ever get that hot I wouldn't think? | ||
| Larryjohn |
I had a local shop weld it. I did make sure I found someone who had experience with welding on cast aluminum, which isn't too easy. You do have more material left on the case than I did so the jb weld might work. My concern was that the jb weld might break loose from the aluminum casting over time. I did play around with some jb weld while I was still debating what to do. If you go that route, you can spray a thin film of chain lube on the bolt (the waxy kind seemed to work well) then thread the bolt into the existing hole. Then you can apply the jb weld and it shouldn't stick to the bolt. The other concern with jb weld is the repair you are making will need to hold your body weight. Do you want to trust your right footpeg to jb weld? | ||
| Wisco |
Okay, there's a shop near me that does that kind of work. I will probably take it to them. Just to be safe. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
TIG welding uses high frequency electricity to create an arc...suggest you disconnect the battery, and the ECM before you you let the welder do his thing...good luck | ||
| Larryjohn |
I suggest removing the engine and draining the oil. There is little room to maneuver the tig torch with the engine still in the frame. Also, keep in mind the weld will be close to a gasket so the person doing the welding will need to take some breaks to prevent the area around the weld from getting too hot. When I had mine repaired I took some photos to the guy doing the work to ask him if he could do it and ask some general questions on how he planned to do the work. I then took the motor to him with a new footpeg bracket so he could align everything. You might not need the bracket since you still have part of the mounting surface intact. | ||
| Wisco |
Okay, I will give them a call tomorrow. The shop specializes in cast welding, so they SHOULD have a good idea of what to do but I will be sure to highlight all of the precautions that you mentioned and the bike could use an oil change anyways so I guess that's good right?  I'll see what they say. Is there a thread anywhere about replacing the engine slider? that took a beating as well. | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Engine slider? | ||
| Wisco |
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/190560604625?lpid=82 That thing. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
It's a "Friction Fit" using an O-ring to provide the interference and keep the "puck" in the case ( you pry it out with a screw driver)...Al at American Sport bike sells replacements: http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Category/1125R engine | ||
| Wisco |
Is there anywhere that you guys would recommend getting a new rear brake light switch from? That got fried in the process of sliding down the road as well. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
ebay... http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTORCYCLE-REAR-SET-BRAKE- LIGHT-PRESSURE-SWITCH-M10mm-x-1-00mm-/151262069766 ?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2337ec0 406&vxp=mtr you may have to splice in the correct connector...also check the dia and thread to make sure it'll fit in the M/C | ||
| Wisco |
Good news, everything should be fixed about mid week this week. Right now I'm working on wrapping the plastics in a white carbon fiber vinyl. That, is a PITA. Thankfully I have another set for the bike while I work on these. |
