| Author | Message | ||
     Redbat |
Although this was pretty involved to design and make, it works perfect. I does not pick up any extra heat from the engine or exhaust. It tucks in tight, and looks like it was made for the bike, because it is. I also think it works better because the air flows through the fins instead of across the fins. (no disrespect to those mounted across)    | ||
| Hildstrom |
That's a very nice looking bracket. I'm curious about the other stuff in the first photo. What's to the right of the oil cooler with an air filter on it? What's the black rectangular box to the left of the VR with all of the screws? | ||
| Ak_addict |
I'm not to sure I like the bracket. Maybe you should make another and send it to me for evaluation.  | ||
| Oldog |
the thing to the rear and above the VR is a catch can, Red says the thing with all of the screws is a fairing / heat shield It out of the box for sure.... Nice job on the bracket Red... | ||
| Sonny4472 |
Awesome design. | ||
| Redbat |
Hildstrom, go back to the 1125 Superbike board and click on the thread "My Buell with lots of mods". I posted pictures and an explanation of the modifications on my bike. | ||
| Shawns |
How much to make one for me???? | ||
| Redbat |
Thanks guys for the positive comments. Now to answer Shawns. I have limited resources, so I make this stuff by hand. Unless I get it mass produced, it would be too expensive to make another one. | ||
| Shawns |
Damn  | ||
| Dannybuell |
could you make a hardware materials list so we can duplicate. those fasteners look great! | ||
| Redbat |
(Message edited by Redbat on April 29, 2014) (Message edited by Redbat on April 30, 2014) | ||
| Redbat |
Ok guy's, this isn't exactly a hardware list, but basic guidelines to help you build your own voltage regulator mounting bracket. First be aware this won't work with the stock exhaust. After market exhaust only. The main mounting plate should be 1/8 inch aluminum plate. The two mounting L-brackets can be aluminum 1/4 inch thick minimum. Pictures are worth a thousand words, so here we go.......    These are rubber grommets, stainless steel 1/4-20 bolt, washer, spacer, and sleeve nut. You'll need four of each.  (Message edited by Redbat on May 15, 2014) | ||
| Redbat |
The billet aluminum L-bracket material I used is a little overkill in thickness, but I recommend buying one at least 1/4 inch thick. The small one in the picture is an example only.  You'll have to look at the pictures and figure out what goes where, but it's not that hard. Just takes a bit of trial and error to get it to fit right.   BTW the chrome spacer in the L-bracket in the picture above is not needed. I goofed and had to remake another bracket with a hole just big enough for the engine bolt to fit through. Also on that same bracket, drill two holes evenly spaced (not one as in the picture), then use two smaller bolts and nuts to fasten it to the 1/8th inch main plate. This will keep the unit from wanting to swivel when it's mounted. I found out the hard way and had to redo that part. (Message edited by redbat on May 15, 2014) | ||
| Redbat |
I almost forgot. I don't think you need to use the rubber grommets between the main plate and the four mounting bolts on the four corners of the VR. You can use 1/4 to 1/2 inch spacers then the 1/4-20 stainless bolts with the sleeve nuts, and bolt it solid to the main 1/8th inch plate. It isolates the VR so well from the heat anyway. Don't forget to use blue or red locktite on the four 1/4 20 bolts for the final installation after everything fits. One last thing, since the wires will be tight against the engine block after installation, find a good heat resistant wire sleeve to protect the wires from heat. I hope I didn't confuse anyone with all my suggested instructions. (Message edited by redbat on May 15, 2014) (Message edited by redbat on May 15, 2014) (Message edited by Redbat on May 15, 2014) | ||
| Redbat |
If anyone makes their own mounting bracket, please post a picture of it here, and let us know how you like it. | ||
| Zew2888 |
Hey sorry to bring back an old thread but Redbat, how did you route your wiring this way? I just fab'd a mount like yours and just wanted opinions on where to route the wires from the new VR. | ||
| Redbat |
I separated the wires into two leads instead of one large lead, then routed them straight up from the back of the new VR mount, between the oil cooler and engine. Assuming the air box is removed, rout the wires up between the frame and engine on the left side of the bike then over to the right side of the engine by passing through the vee of the engine cylinders under the throttle bodies, then under the throttle linkage on the right side between the engine and frame. Then straight back to where you make the connections. Leave a enough slack in the routing of the wire and make sure it doesn't interfere with the movement of the throttle linkage. Hope this helps. (Message edited by Redbat on August 15, 2014) | ||
| Redbat |
I almost forgot to mention you have to make the wire leads much longer to be able to reach all the way up under the seat where the connectors are. One other note.....I bought a used original voltage regulator off EBay and cut off the connectors to wire onto my new extended VR leads. That makes the wiring job look original and reliable. I also kept my original VR mounted as a backup in case the new one fails. That way it's a simple job to move the connector and keep riding. I don't expect that to happen but if you're far from home and it fails, you have a backup. |
