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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through March 11, 2014 » Old gas? My 1125 has been sleeping for 2 years. « Previous Next »

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Andros
Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 04:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My bike has been sitting still for over 2 years. I'm about to fire it up again with new oil and filter.

Should i drain the old gas you think?

Any other stuff i should be aware off?
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Dennis_c
Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 04:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would change the gas. Just a guess fuell injection cleaner to.
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Stirz007
Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 07:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yep - drain the gas (drain plug at rear of frame). Maybe a squirt of oil in each cylinder (I like to use Marvel Mystery Oil), for good measure.
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Andros
Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 07:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cool. Where do i squirt the oil into, just down the intakes?
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Matteson
Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 07:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

pull the plugs and drop some oil in that way.
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Stirz007
Posted on Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 10:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Normally, through the plug hole, but given it's not real easy to remove the front plug without rotating motor, you could just squirt some WD-40 through the intake port on each cylinder. I know for a fact you can change the front plug without rotating the motor, but it takes some finesse.
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Matteson
Posted on Monday, January 27, 2014 - 12:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Let if fully charge too and only start it with the juice from the battery. I had bought a non running kz once and it had been jumped and spun the primary starter gear on the secondary shaft. I don't know how stout the gear is in the Buell but I never want to have to deal with that crap again. And don't want anybody else too either.
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Andros
Posted on Monday, January 27, 2014 - 02:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanx dudes!!!!
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Bob_thompson
Posted on Monday, January 27, 2014 - 11:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

After putting a little oil down the intakes (good idea), engage 4th gear and turn the engine over using the rear wheel to do it. Bike can be on the floor for better traction. Merely roll the bike back and forth with the clutch out to rotate the pistons a little to make sure they are completely free, before using the starter. Too much torque with the starter and I have seen rings break if they are even a little frozen to the cylinder walls but usually only when stored outside. Just FWIW. Bob
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Geforce
Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2014 - 11:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you decide to moth ball the bike again for a year or so, always treat the fuel with (insert brand here) fuel treatment to prevent gumming. I use SeaFoam in mine, and I try to keep the tank at 1/4-1/2 full when I put it in storage. This way, I can run out and get some premium fuel in the spring and mix it with the old fuel and more SeaFoam!

Bob has the right idea about rolling it around in gear... always a good idea to make sure your rotating assembly is ... rotating after a long storage.

I also use SeaFoam (Spray Can Type) after it's up and running to clean out the throttle bodies. Good luck!
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Geforce
Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2014 - 11:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Forgot to mention - Living in the south (Texas), SeaFoam is perfectly adequate for storage... if you are in Alaska or Canada or the frozen cheese, coal and oil states of the US... Might want to look into a more hardcore product than SeaFoam. Not saying it won't work, but sub zero temps over a duration might be a bit harsher than it can handle.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Thursday, January 30, 2014 - 12:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm not real big on "stabilizers", dump the gas and run any fuel out of the lines. no fuel, no varnish later.
My advice to Andros - get a gas can and top off the tank with premium.
Put on your gear and go burn that tank up so you can get a fresh tankful of Ethyl.
Rinse and repeat.

Z
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Andros
Posted on Thursday, January 30, 2014 - 12:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanx guys again!

The bike doest have belt and pulley on. So cant i just turn the front sprocket manually with a wrench?
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Stirz007
Posted on Thursday, January 30, 2014 - 01:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anders - that would probably work. I think if you just bump the starter, you'll know right away whether motor is seized or not. If it's been sitting a couple of years (indoors), a shot of oil and you should be OK. If it's been outside, or high humidity, there could be some corrosion in the cylinder.

Left side: beneath the plastic Pegasus puck, there's a aluminum plug held in place by a snap ring. If you remove the plug, there's a (17mm?) nut underneath that you can also use to turn the motor by hand.
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