Author |
Message |
Bazookaruni
| Posted on Sunday, January 19, 2014 - 05:34 pm: |
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Hi there. I have been looking around on forums for a long time, people talk about 190/55 17 is the widest you can Mount, but sometimes I read people who have put 200/50 17 on. Is there anybody who has tryed a 200 tire on there Stock wheel? |
Jdugger
| Posted on Sunday, January 19, 2014 - 07:27 pm: |
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I really don't recommend a 200. It stands a good chance of being too tall as well as too wide. If you use a stock exhaust it's likely to rub it. You can run some 190s OK, and some don't work so well. |
Nillaice
| Posted on Sunday, January 19, 2014 - 11:11 pm: |
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your CR swingarm is actually a little longer , so you should have more space between the muffler than teh same tyre on an 1125R |
Nillaice
| Posted on Sunday, January 19, 2014 - 11:12 pm: |
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and a 190 will change your handling a little. |
Bazookaruni
| Posted on Monday, January 20, 2014 - 04:05 am: |
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I run Keda rt-4, and its a cr i have. I dont Care about handling, want the looks Thanks for the Answers |
Thefleshrocket
| Posted on Monday, January 20, 2014 - 10:09 pm: |
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If you mount a wider-than-180 tire, be aware that at anything more than a cautious lean angle, your contact patch may be significantly reduced due to the tire's profile being pinched. I had a 180/55 on a 5" wheel on my CBR600F2 track bike. I'd only done a few laps and was taking it easy as I'd never ridden Autobahn before. I was rewarded with a real "oh shit" moment--the back end snuck out during a right hander. I wasn't leaned over very far when it happened, and I ended up holding the bike up with my knee for a split second till the back end came back in line. Fortunately I didn't high-side, but I pulled in after that lap and mounted up the spare 4.5" wheel that I had with a 160 on it. A 180 wants a 5.5" wheel, and a 190 wants a 6" wheel, generally speaking. Considering that a 180 on a 5" wheel threatened to put me on my head, I'd be very hesitant about going up 10mm on the rear tire, much less 20mm. Then again, if your chicken strips are a couple inches wide, you probably won't notice. |
Andros
| Posted on Tuesday, January 21, 2014 - 09:34 am: |
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I ran 190 on mine and couldnt feel the difference. But i ride in the city mostly. |
Nillaice
| Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2014 - 09:05 pm: |
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i can swear that i've seen a thread with pics of a 200/55-17 or something ridiculous on an XB. i think the guy might have had to ditch all belt guards and shim the drive pulley and sprocket to clear the belt. on an 1125 the drive pulley is 'dished' out a little compared to the XB, so you might not have to shim it out with a 200. you might have to mount a few tires and just see what rubs to find the max width. .... or just leave the bike looking functional and loose the pissing contest to mr jerk-face cuz his rear tire is sooooo much wider than yours. YMMV but there will always be someone with a jack-shafted gixxer 'one-million' and a custom 360 swingarm |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2014 - 09:45 pm: |
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Runi - Never been to Denmark, but if it's as flat as it looks on Google Earth, you won't miss the handling much. 190 is as big as I've heard mounted. Lots of wiggly roads in Colorado... I must have handling.... Have fun this motor is a hoot. Zack |
Stirz007
| Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2014 - 05:03 am: |
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Google "fat tire Buell" or something similar, and you see stuff with 200's or better, but many appear to have modified swingarms and/or are mostly XB's (my guess here is that XB's tend to be modded more than 1125's because there are more of them and they have more of the HD look customizers like) . I have run 190/55's (Dunlop Q2's, Pirelli Superbike Pro) regularly, but not with factory exhaust. I can't see going much bigger without considerable mods. A quick search found this: http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/2 48389.html?1167781404 |
Froader4life
| Posted on Friday, January 24, 2014 - 12:35 am: |
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I have been running a 200/50 since my first tire change on my cr. It looks awesome and I didn't feel a difference in handling but I'm not crazy on my bike. 200/50 is the same height as a 180/55 so speedo and rake is not affected. Fits fine and clearance isn't an issue. |
Stirz007
| Posted on Friday, January 24, 2014 - 01:16 am: |
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What brand tire? Pics? |
Bazookaruni
| Posted on Friday, January 24, 2014 - 03:30 am: |
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Thx guys for the help. Denmark is VERY flat. The last iceage did a good job making the country flat. And only drive city miles. I'll post some Pics when the bike is finnished. Going full SOC, xb rear and, Keda, and 200 rear tire |
Bubba_
| Posted on Friday, January 24, 2014 - 10:12 pm: |
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I'd like seeing it Saw the video on tire changing posted here (guess it was linked here). That's very helpful. I'd much rather do my own maintenance when possible. |
Stevel
| Posted on Saturday, January 25, 2014 - 05:11 am: |
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The 190 on a 5" wheel doesn't fit well as it changes the radius of the tire, makes the profile asymmetrical and it actually makes the foot print smaller when the bike is vertical. This question is not about whether it clears everything, its about better performance and safety. If you must run a 190, use a 6" wheel. |
Andros
| Posted on Thursday, January 30, 2014 - 12:38 pm: |
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190 fits fine for us posers =) |
Jdugger
| Posted on Thursday, January 30, 2014 - 03:26 pm: |
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It depends which 190, too. |
Skntpig
| Posted on Thursday, January 30, 2014 - 06:50 pm: |
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I say do a 280...That would be rad. |
Stevel
| Posted on Friday, January 31, 2014 - 05:27 am: |
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This comment is probably not going to be popular here, but I need to say it. These bikes are more capable than most of the owners that ride them. They will do exactly what the rider asks of them and not complain, even when stupid is involved. In that light, they are not a beginners bike. Putting a tire larger than 180 on the factory rims is downright unsafe, even for very skilled, experienced riders. I know this because I mounted a 190 slick on a factory wheel, which I can photograph and post if requested. If you wish to run the larger tire, you must have a 6" wheel and a chain drive. Then it works. |
Kruizen
| Posted on Friday, January 31, 2014 - 08:25 am: |
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Stevel, I'm sorry you had a bad experience with a larger tire. But this isn't a black and white issue. Each tire manufacturer can call their tires whatever size they want, also I just got done speaking with the owner of dunlop racing here in the US and he even stated that can be upto a 7% variance between tires. I'm currently running a dunlop 200 slick, but the dot tire of exact same proportions is listed as 190. And both of these are only minimally larger than the pirelli 180. While a larger tire will affect handling, I would never use a set of unmatched tires. So with these dunlop that means a 125 front. A chain drive is helpful for clearance. Have seen a couple of people on this board say get a 6" rear rim-where have you sourced these rims from?? Don't have one of my rims without a tire on it, but believe that our rear is a 5.5 rim which is totally acceptable for pretty much any tire that will clear the swing arm. What tire size were the ama guys running??? Pretty sure those were the lighter rims but still a stock width. |
Jdugger
| Posted on Friday, January 31, 2014 - 09:03 am: |
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I run a Michelin 190 slick. It fits with a correct profile on my 5.5 wheels where a Pirelli race tire, also a 190, did not. As was said, tire sizes, like shoes and clothes, vary a lot from vendor to vendor. Typically one will need to adjust the bike's set-up (front and rear ride height at least, perhaps wheelbase as well) to compensate for different tire models and profiles. With a belt drive, one will need to run a 180 if they also plan to have a belly pan and stock exhaust. Almost all 190 tires will be too tall for that set up. With a competition exhaust, you can get the packaging to fit, but I have really changed my tune on the belt drive from someone who felt it was "good for the street, but useable for racing" to "get rid of that crap as soon as possible and go chain drive". The adjustability in wheelbase is just too important, and the right gearing makes a huge difference in corner drive. The AMA guys in DSB are running the Buell cast Mg wheels. They are marked as a 5.5, but are actually closer to a 5.75 wheel. The DSB-spec tire is an American made Dunlop 190, that's really closer to a "185" than larger 190 like a Pirelli. The Superbike guys were running 200-series slicks and on 6" wheels from PVM. |
Stirz007
| Posted on Friday, January 31, 2014 - 01:20 pm: |
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I run stock wheels, belt drive, race bodywork, EBR race exhaust and 190/55 Pirelli Superbike Pro (Red Stripes). I disagree about my tire choice being unsafe. If one does not change suspension geometry to account for tires other than that provided from the factory, yeah, handling will be affected, maybe detrimentally. For me, though, I did adjust geometry to account for new tire profile and feel as "safe" as you can at race pace. (OK, backmarker race pace). In fact, after changing to those tires, my comfort level increased such that lap times decreased significantly almost immediately. |
Hirpms
| Posted on Friday, January 31, 2014 - 11:05 pm: |
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A 190/50 works pretty good for me! |
Chessm
| Posted on Saturday, February 01, 2014 - 12:04 am: |
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190/55 Q2s here. no issues. |
Stevel
| Posted on Saturday, February 01, 2014 - 07:02 am: |
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I resorted to PVM wheels front and rear and the EBR chain drive swing arm/kit. |
Jdugger
| Posted on Monday, February 03, 2014 - 09:01 am: |
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> I resorted to PVM wheels front and rear and the EBR chain drive swing arm/kit. $6,000 later you are good to go! |
Kruizen
| Posted on Monday, February 03, 2014 - 10:24 am: |
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> I resorted to PVM wheels front and rear and the EBR chain drive swing arm/kit. HOOOOOLY SH************T $6K that's a pretty expensive 1/2 inch. |
99buellx1
| Posted on Monday, February 03, 2014 - 05:28 pm: |
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Those PVM's are amazingly light though! |
Stevel
| Posted on Tuesday, February 04, 2014 - 12:51 pm: |
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There are many advantages to the PVM, chain drive solution, not just tire size. Very quick tire, wheel and sprocket changes and a whole lot of unsprung weight savings, but it's expensive. |
Coastrambler
| Posted on Thursday, February 06, 2014 - 11:43 pm: |
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Dugger You mention adjustability of wheelbase as a chain drive advantage. I look at the swingarm and it looks like the wheelbase is fixed. Or are we talking of using different swingarms? |
Stevel
| Posted on Friday, February 07, 2014 - 12:27 am: |
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Coastrambler, I think Dugger is talking about the axle slot in a chain drive swingarm. The slot is 3.5 in long. By adding or removing links in the chain, the wheelbase can be moved a lot. |
Jdugger
| Posted on Friday, February 07, 2014 - 09:01 am: |
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I am talking about the chain drive swingarm. The chain drive kit replaces the OEM swing arm with an adjustable one. This offers a couple of inches of adjustability in the wheelbase. As Stevel mentions, you use a combination of sprocket selection and chain length to get to the desired wheelbase. With the pre-2013 chain drive kit, the absolutely shortest setting possible is still about a half-inch more wheelbase than the OEM swingarm with the belt drive. The new 1190-derived kit allows short set ups close to OEM, but having now run the longer set-up, I cannot recommend OEM geometry for racing. |
Bazookaruni
| Posted on Thursday, March 06, 2014 - 04:48 pm: |
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I just got the 200/50 tire mounted. NO problem getting it on and it fits perfekt. Riding it is no problem either. The CR really look much better with this rear |
Ridenusa4l
| Posted on Thursday, March 06, 2014 - 05:35 pm: |
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feel free to post a pic Jake |
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