| Author | Message | ||
     Jdugger |
Are the pin numbers important or is just AC? Noticed my connector shorts out (black arc residue everywhere) and I forgot to write the pin numbers on the leads before I disassembled it. DOH! | ||
| Nuts4mc |
AC | ||
| Tbowdre |
Not important... Although there was time when a theory floated around that you could have the HD bandaid relay shut off the leg that was at the 12 o clock position. The thought was that this would be the hottest leg and it would contribute the most heat and damage to the stator. whatever | ||
| Jdugger |
race bike... whatever is right! Thanks guys. | ||
| Pmjolly |
I don't know if it matters with the voltage regulator, but in a three phase system, if you swap two legs, you reverse phase rotation. I'd say if it does not work right, swap two wires from the stator. It does not matter which two. | ||
| Jaredc01 |
Pmjolly, you are correct about a 3-phase motor being reversed, but it makes no difference for the stator. A 3-phase stator just reduces low points in the AC waveform (since they're all at offset intervals), so there's no need for a large capacitor to offset the gaps in AC waves (hence why there isn't one on the bike). Which way they are hooked up makes no difference since they're all offset equally to each other. For an interesting fun fact, since the bike also uses a rectifier (the regulator and rectifier are built into one unit), it also flips the polarity when the AC wave is running in the negative voltage range, therefore turning it into a positive voltage, meaning there are effectively six charging pulses per cycle (two per phase) to give a steady output to the regulator without the capacitor as mentioned above. It's a pretty cool system for how old the technology is. | ||
| Jdugger |
I'll try and post a photo of what my connector looked like. There was obvious arcing around one of the connections, and the copper itself was corroding and splitting! Gross... | ||
| Pmjolly |
It was probably just a loose connection. A loose connection can cause enough heat to melt the plastic connectors. | ||
| Cataract2 |
+1 to the loose connection. I had that happen on mine when the tab that was suppose to hold the connector together broke and the connector separated just a hair. | ||
| Jdugger |
Clearly it was loose, or there would not be arcing! But, what happened is over time the connector had become corroded. So, once separated and then reassembled, one of the pins was loose inside an otherwise correctly reassembled connection. It wiggled, sparked, melted some shit, kept sparking, got worse, and so on! My regulator is the original (!) from '08 on this bike if you can believe that! The insulation leading up to the connector is all hard and crusty and cracking, too. The leads going into the crimps are green and crusty with corrosion! I'm going to cut it back to bare wire, put heat shrink on top of the old insulation, and put a new connector body on it with a soldered assembly in addition to crimp. Should be good for racing, especially since I take the bike apart twice a year. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
JD...you might want to wrap the new connector in some fibre glass insulation (braided type...NOT the Pink Panther stuff...or buy some silicone rubber sheet/tubing (McMstr-C)and insulate (wrap it around)the union)as the shorter those leads get....the closer it gets to the exhaust...and the heat from the pipe. | ||
| Jdugger |
Good call. That's probably what's cooking the insulation... | ||
| Oldog |
Jim the poor connection is causing the current to go up and causing the heating ( unless the connector is a lot lower than the one on my bike ) cutting the wires back to clean copper and re-terminating is the correct fix. |
