| Author | Message | ||
     Rodrob |
So I have just completed pre-season maintenance on my 1190RS race bike and I thought folks might want to know what I found after a season of racing and a pretty major crash.  The bike was trouble free all season, save for an electrical miss that ended up being the ground wire at the front of the frame not making good contact in spite of being tight. I did a leak down test with the motor warm. The rear cylinder was less than 2.5% and the front was to less than 1%.  All valves were within spec, save one exhaust which was .001 loose. I had adjusted the valves once mid season, only 2 needed shims. The timing chain guides showed minor scoring and were probably OK, but I replaced them as a matter of course. The clutch pack is still well within speck, but I needed to replace all the pressure plate bolts as they are normal wear items for the Suter Slipper Clutch. Looks like I will be going through a set of these every couple of race weekends. I have to say that given the motor results, I am really sold on the Amsoil Dominator Racing oil. I see no negative effects on the clutch that some were concerned about. Given the severity of my crash, I was thrilled that nothing major was bent on the bike. The forks, frame, swingarm and wheels were all straight. I'll be taking the bike for a road test tomorrow and then to the track at the end of the month. | ||
| Hughlysses |
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| Ljm |
Good to know, Rob. I am not going to race mine, but especially positive on the 15w-50. On my third oil change soon, and on the street, all good. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Rob, why so high with the lift/floorjacks? | ||
| Nobuell |
I am getting ready to pull the frame in my 08 1125R for a valve adjustment. Is it recommended to change the timing chain guides while I have things apart? | ||
| Cataract2 |
Nobuell, unless there is an issue with the guides, no. I don't believe the guides have a listed change interval. I would go with, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". | ||
| Rodrob |
Re timing chain guides: While there may not be a service interval, the timing chain guides are known to be a wear item in the motor. On a race motor, where valve timing is critical, I inspect them at least once mid-season, and then replace them at the end of the season. On the street motor, it's not so critical. If you're doing the valves, then I would remove the timing chain tensioner and pull the opposite timing chain guide out through the top and inspected for wear. If it has minor scoring, then you're probably okay. If there is deeper gouging, then they need to be replaced. Do not, I repeat do not rotate the motor with the timing chain guide and or tensioner removed. You can jump a tooth on the timing sprocket and screw everything up. Also, little black plastic balls or debris in the oil pump screen at the bottom of the engine is an indicator that the timing chain guides are wearing. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
...the lower Cam Chain guide was "updated" in the 2010 model year...link with a pix: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/709933.html | ||
| Nobuell |
I have not found any plastic bits in the screen but I think I will oder a set and have them on hand when I do the valves. Thanks for the tip on engine rotation. I will be mindful during the check. | ||
| Nobuell |
Just to be clear on the guides. The parts manual shows 3 chain guides. The guide that is part of the tensioner, large guide adjacent to the tensioner and the lower guide. I assume the tensioner guide is the part to be inspected and/or replaced? Is there any reason to worry about the other guides? The motor only has 10.5K miles. | ||
| Rodrob |
The large guide adjacent to the tensioned guide is the only one that can be inspected without removing the side cases and drive gears. It's also the one that wears the least. If it is significantly worn, they all should be replaced, but at 10.5K miles, I would not be concerned if your running a good synthetic oil. (Message edited by rodrob on January 13, 2014) | ||
| Nobuell |
Rodrob - Thanks for the info. That is what I suspected. I think I will order them to keep on hand and inspect per your recommendation, and I have always run the bike with Redline Vtwin or Motul 300V. How often do you change your oil for track usage? |
