| Author | Message | ||
     B2tomtom |
I am looking at upgrading the brakes on my 08 1125 and have heard that you can use the front master cylinder from an R6. Does anyone know if there is a specific year range that will work? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. Just noticed I messed up the thread title. (Message edited by B2tomtom on December 08, 2013) | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Moto-Mummy has one on sale...go here: http://us5.campaign-archive2.com/?u=392467904c045e c7df0bb191c&id=709745b80c&e=b973adaeff I used a 19mm bore radial M/C from a 1000 Gixer...I believe it was a 2004 model here's my post ...scroll down for pix http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/701261.html?1355889126 the best mod besides the M/C was the upgraded disk mounting hardware from EBR http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/parts-accesso ries/brakes.html (Message edited by nuts4mc on December 08, 2013) | ||
| B2tomtom |
Thanks, the rotor is definitely on my list of upgrades along with the pads. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
B2...the rotor just doubled in price (it's used on the new EBR model)...it's the mounting hardware ($49) that added the finishing touches on my brake upgrade... | ||
| Jdugger |
Do the nuts and bolts first. | ||
| Smoke4ndmears |
Holy s%#t!, I'm glad I got one of those rotors when I did! | ||
| B2tomtom |
Yeah, I saw that last week. Really kicking myself cause I was going to order one later this month. @Jim-I am going to be ordering those up. Still have the list of stuff you gave me. Thanks for the help. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
Nuts4mc, what's so special about the brake mounting hardware? The bolts just.. hold the rotor in place, right? | ||
| Jdugger |
I know you asked Nuts, but the upgraded brake hardware does a number of things that are improvements, including getting heat out of the rotor and into the wheel, and preventing premature drive bushing shear common with the old set up. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
FleshRkt....the New hardware allows the floating action to take place on a precise "shaft", rather than the "keystone" washer on a shoulder bolt with "belleville" washers...the ID and outer surface of the keystone washer and the shoulder of the bolt wear and the floating action becomes irregular causing what machinists call "T.I.R." (Total Indicator Run-out)...that is, the disk doesn't run "true"( it can wobble)....in my experience the disk kept pushing the pads into the bore of the caliper too much....this excessive clearance between the pads and the disk made the brake lever travel excessive and "UN-repeatable" in real world riding....I searched for leaks/ bled M/C/rebuilt the caliper/replaced lines/ changed fluid...all with the same excessive travel...once I changed the disk mounting hardware the disk stayed "true" ( T.I.R. = "0" or very very small)and I could trail brake with the front brake with confidence that the lever travel was going to be the same corner to corner (we have a lot of tight canyons out here)....best $50 I ever spent...try it you'll like it. | ||
| Ak_addict |
Just picked up a Brembo radial master off an R6 to do this upgrade on my CR. $50 for the master with reservoir and it came with the calipers and lines. Sell the calipers and get the master for free or almost free. You have to love Craigslist. Anyone have pics of how they mounted the reservoir? (Message edited by AK Addict on December 21, 2013) | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Ak_a...if you go up this thread to my post ...the middle link...once in it scroll down for pix...basically - drilled and tapped a hole in the bottom of clip-on/handlebar mount (6mm)...used a long bolt and a 5/8" long spacer...hope this helps | ||
| Ak_addict |
I saw that, mines a CR with the high bar kit so that won't work unfortunately. | ||
| B2tomtom |
AK what year R6 did you get your master cylinder from? | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
Thanks for the explanation, Nuts. Would the brake hardware help prevent the slop in the brake lever? IE the quarter to half inch of lever travel or so before the pads feel like they're starting to press against the rotor? Normally I fix that by pushing the brake pads back into the caliper and then pumping the lever till they come back out. That takes almost all the slop out of the brake lever, but it usually only lasts for a few weeks before the slop returns and I have to do it again. I don't have any issues with inconsistent brake pad engagement--the slop or lack thereof stays very consistent. | ||
| Ak_addict |
AK what year R6 did you get your master cylinder from? 2008 | ||
| Nuts4mc |
F'rocket- in my experience on the tight canyons we have down here - yes it helps remove the "play"- I have NOT had it at a track day (yet) with the new hardware...I suspect your roads in the Midwest are fairly straight and long ...(1) if your wheel is out of balance it could "shake" enough to make the disk "run out" (have excessive "T.I.R") and push the pads back into the calipers.(2)IMO; the OEM hardware is prone to sticking (the keystone washer rides on the bolt,(a) it can become contaminated with brake dust/rust/scoring (b) the heat path can be dis-connected, leaving too much heat in the disk (warping/scoring occurs), (c)with heat in that area (Disk/washer/bolt), the belville washer will become annealed(softened)and it will stop doing it's job....the disk just "sits" there ( not floating back to it's original "spot") ...adding to the TIR). Long story - I'll try to make it short....down here many of us who have ridden/raced for decades have become bike whores...we aren't brand loyal(we buy the latest/fastest/technological advanced scooter offered)...a friend and a local AMA pro raced at Daytona-both qualified for the SBK event, both on the same (B) brand, my friends shop sponsored both bikes...my friend crashed hard ( broke his neck ) at the bus stop on the back straight - his front brakes didn't work as expected - with the bike totaled all we could guess was the front tire slipped on the rim somewhere before the run on the back straight causing an un-balance and vibrations knocked the pads/pistons back into the calipers - the front brake lever travel was too great and he missed his braking point and crashed...( the back straight could be a lot like the roads you have in the mid-west) the AMA pro I think finished 8th (I don't remember exactly...he now races the (K) brand)...Moral of the story... (1)mark your tire ( I use a spot of finger nail polish) in relation to the wheel weights ( 2) tape your weights...check it before you head out,(3) if you ride with a "late braking" style...change- try to get smoother and maintain you momentum thru the turn...smoother riders are faster. | ||
| Pgh_biker |
If you are friends with any Suzuki mechanics ask them about the MC recall on the GSXR's . Something with how the bleeder is and there being corrosion after a year or 2 of use. Anyway you may just score a used Nissan MC from them . Maybe for a case of beer ? | ||
| Dhays1775 |
I've been following this thread just watching. Needless to say, I somehow developed a leak from my front master cylinder. But the location of the leak is the strange part. It appears to be coming from line where the master is cast. I initially thought it was fork oil leaking past an o-ring and getting on the bottom of the mc. But the top of the fork stayed dry. Letting the bike sit for a couple days just to see if it would leak on its own, not a drop. Rode for about an hour, using the brakes like I normally do, there it is again. I know it's pretty pointless to rebuild the mc, so I just went ahead and got a 2009 GSXR1000 Nissin 19mm radial master with reservoir for $80 on fleabay. I'll post pictures of the leak in just a bit. Also, I'll start another thread with pictures of the install. Now back to the original topic... Sorry for the thread jack.  | ||
| Lospice1 |
Best bang for buck upgrade! | ||
| Nuts4mc |
watch for clearance when you turn the bars to full lock to the left...it gets real close to the fairing stay ( see the pix from my install above) - good luck | ||
| B2tomtom |
Good luck with the install David. I just got my new rotor, pads and changed out the brake fluid so next step is a master cylinder. | ||
| Dhays1775 |
Nuts4mc, I have the CR with the high bar kit, so hopefully there shouldn't be any sort of clearance issue.  | ||
| Dhays1775 |
B2, have you noticed any difference in braking performance/consistency? | ||
| B2tomtom |
Haven't been able to take her out yet. Just got everything back together tonight and will be doing a test ride in the morning. I'll leave some feedback on here. | ||
| Lospice1 |
All interested in doing this mod, you definitely need to buy the steering limiter from EBR....don't ask how I know  The lever will contact the fairing stay if handlebars are turned to the extreme left.....not fun. Hope this helps and prevents an unnecessary dump, Will | ||
| B2tomtom |
Took her out for a nice ride up Glendora Mtn Road. The brake lever was definitely more consistent. The bike itself stops quite a bit better. Only odd thing I have noticed so far is the bike pulsates slightly under light braking. I don't feel it in the lever itself though and with a slight increase in pressure it goes away. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
It pulses because your rotor is warped and it needs to be replaced. May be a good time to use the EBR mounting hardware with the new rotor. | ||
| Dhays1775 |
You can see where it was dripping up from the wind on the bar. The fluid would collect on the inside corner of the bottom of the master cylinder, then the wind pushed it up onto the back side of the MC and the front of the bar. I forgot to take a picture from the front and under so you could see where it was leaking.  | ||
| B2tomtom |
@rogue its a brand new EBR rotor with the hardware kit. On the ride home I noticed it does pulsate under hard braking but it is hardly noticeable in the lever. The rotor shows some dark lines resembling chatter marks. I will try to take some pics and get them posted. |
