Author |
Message |
Kruizen
| Posted on Saturday, December 28, 2013 - 05:06 pm: |
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Clutch had been sticking almost all summer, so I started tearing it apart tonight and saw this:
Also the most outside steel plate seemed almost fused to the pressure plate, almost had to pry it off. What do you think? Why did the springs score like this? |
Mcelhaney14
| Posted on Sunday, December 29, 2013 - 04:15 am: |
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It may be due to vibrations but I have seen that on other 1125 clutch baskets and they still seem to work fine. The plate sticking could just be the oil between the two. That would be my guess. How was the fluid condition and level? No clutch weep? |
Kruizen
| Posted on Sunday, December 29, 2013 - 08:45 am: |
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No weep. Fixed last year. Change the brake/clutch fluid about 2x a year, oil after every weekend at the track. Going to measure the plates today. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Sunday, December 29, 2013 - 08:47 am: |
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Dirt bike clutches do it a worse way around (fingers reaching out into a basket with teeth), and everyone I have pulled looks a ton worse than that and generally work OK for a while. |
Kw1125r
| Posted on Sunday, December 29, 2013 - 01:53 pm: |
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Mine was scored like that as well - clutch was operating fine. I replaced the clutch basket while I was in there just because. Wouldn't mind hearing myself why this happens. |
General_tso
| Posted on Sunday, December 29, 2013 - 02:36 pm: |
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My clutch basket looks exactly like that. Clutch works fine. I'm not worried about mine. |
Kruizen
| Posted on Sunday, December 29, 2013 - 07:24 pm: |
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Cool, figured it wasn't determental to the clutch but was curious since it wasnt there last time I was in there. |
Oldog
| Posted on Monday, December 30, 2013 - 02:18 pm: |
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Dont the springs fit around those knobs? |
Kruizen
| Posted on Monday, December 30, 2013 - 02:42 pm: |
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yup, it was the springs that caused the scoring. |
Nillaice
| Posted on Tuesday, December 31, 2013 - 03:34 am: |
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From the picture, it looks like the scoring only on the inside. Could that be a result of centrifugal forces since you see triple digit speeds more often than your average rider who isn't a professional on a closed course? And is your clutch sticking to/from 4th and 5th gear ( at higher speeds)? At the risk of increasing rotational mass (gasp) Maybe some steel sleeves could be fitted over them if that would help the sticking issue. |
Nillaice
| Posted on Tuesday, December 31, 2013 - 03:37 am: |
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Are the inner and outer basket teeth notched? ... That might case a sticky clutch of the plates are being held together by notches ... |
Kruizen
| Posted on Tuesday, December 31, 2013 - 07:50 am: |
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No notches anywhere but on the posts from the springs. The plates stick when shifting to netural/1st when coming to a stop-have to shift into neutral when coasting in for a stop. No problems in the higher gears or when moving. Matt hope all is well for you in your new area- happy new year |
General_tso
| Posted on Tuesday, December 31, 2013 - 10:36 am: |
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I can't remember if you are using a stock of aftermarket clutch master. I had the problem you describe when I installed a master that was too small. After installing the 19mm master the problem went away. |
Kruizen
| Posted on Tuesday, December 31, 2013 - 11:07 am: |
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I think it's brembo RCS 19 that I have on now. |
General_tso
| Posted on Tuesday, December 31, 2013 - 01:57 pm: |
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After I bled my 19 I experienced the condition until I bled the system a couple of times. |
Nillaice
| Posted on Friday, January 03, 2014 - 12:40 am: |
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thank you, Erik. it looks like you're taking opportunity of the winter to make the most of the new year when the VA weather gets right |
Pwillikers
| Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2014 - 12:37 pm: |
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Eric, I'm still in the same boat as you. Have you ever resolved the clutch dragging issue? When I replaced my leaking clutch slave cylinder with the EBR kit I also swapped in Barnett plates (retaining the stock springs). Since then my clutch has been dragging. In first gear with the clutch disengaged the lever action feels great but it walks forward and it's almost impossible to find neutral from both first or second. Suspecting air in the lines, I've bled it and bled it and bled it with a Mighty Vac and also back bled it with a big syringe pressurizing the slave cylinder. Nothing has worked. Are there esoteric bleeding techniques particular to this bike that I'm missing? I'm wondering if I should pull the Barnett plates and install new stock ones but I'm reluctant to embark on a $200 science project with minimal expectation of success. Did you find a resolution or have any other suggestions? Also, did you ever determine what that mysterious "spacer" is that the manual cites as might be missing? Thanks for the help. This is frustrating the shit outta me. (Message edited by pwillikers on January 09, 2014) |
Kruizen
| Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2014 - 01:18 pm: |
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"No Joy" so far. I never got the chance to measure the Barnett stack, but my guess is that its too tall. I won't have mine back together again for a couple of weeks. I'll post up if I get it. I don't want to invest in stock plates at this time either, but that is my best guess as to the issue. I've gotten in the habit of blipping the throttle when slowing in order to get it to drop into neutral if I have to sit at a light for a while or get into 1st. |
Pwillikers
| Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2014 - 08:35 pm: |
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Eric, I called Barnett Tech Support to get their perspective. They suggested: 1. Measure the clutch pack - Barnet Clutch Pack height 1.920~1.830. 2. Check that steel plates are flat. 3. Try reusing the OEM plates. |
Kruizen
| Posted on Thursday, January 09, 2014 - 08:41 pm: |
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Reuse steel or fiber plates? |