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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through January 20, 2014 » Anybody press there own bearings? « Previous Next »

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Matteson
Posted on Monday, December 09, 2013 - 06:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Been thinking about pressing my own. I've never done this but I thought about giving it a try. I was gonna heat the hub and punch a bearing out from the other side. Then freeze a bearing and heat the hub with my heat gun and evenly punch it in with a socket. Anybody else done this?
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Mhpalin
Posted on Monday, December 09, 2013 - 07:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's how I put them in but I have a blind hole bearing puller that I use to pull them out I highly recommend using one of them,they work great.
Mike
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Cataract2
Posted on Monday, December 09, 2013 - 07:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Press works well. Remember to FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS TO THE LETTER!!! Also, support the bearing inner and outer races of the one you are pressing in as well as the one already in.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, December 10, 2013 - 08:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I do the thermal thing on dirt bike crank bearings when I split cases. It really works well. The bearing sits overnight in a deep freezer, the crankcase half goes in the oven or on the grill.
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Matteson
Posted on Tuesday, December 10, 2013 - 10:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ya, I don't know about putting the wheel in the oven! Got the bike lifted last night for the valves. I took the front end off and checked the wheel bearings and I think they are crap too. But my new rear wheel is on the way from Ohio fortunately. So I will have a set to get done sometime this winter along with the valves. And I got my Firebolt mirrors done last night for the 11. I had to to get a couple bolts for the stems and cut the old mounts off the 11's. Good to go.
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Tuesday, December 10, 2013 - 11:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

my tips...
1) if you have a friend with a lathe...get him to make up some tooling ( OD a bit smaller than a new brg.s OD)
2) No lathe?....once you get the old bearing out ...save them...use a bench grinder or sanding belt to remove material from the OD of the old bearing so you can use it as a "tool" to help press in the new brg ( also grind away some of the "end" of the inner race....don't want to make contact with the inner race of the new brg.)....gotta be able to remove the "tool" easily from the bore.( Never ever press on the ID of the new brg.)
3)No Press?...a good size threaded rod ( aka all thread) with some nuts/washers or flat stock with a hole in the middle AND the "tool" you made can be use to install the new bearing...please refrain from using a hammer...you might miss and hit the inner race or worse "twist/miss-align" the bearing in the bore.
4) heating up the wheel? ....go to Harbor Freight and buy a heat gun - usually on sale for $15...don't use an open flame...it'll ruin the paint.
5) yes I put the new bearing(s) in the freezer overnight...AND make sure I do a "dress rehearsal" with bearing tooling/heat gun/wrenches and an able assistant before the heating and freeing starts.
- Like Reepcp I used this method on vertically split cases for years....hope this helps

(Message edited by nuts4mc on December 10, 2013)
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Crowley
Posted on Tuesday, December 10, 2013 - 11:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hot air guns work well for heating. Keep the bearings in a zip lock plastic bag whilst overnight in the freezer. Fortunately I have a lathe so I've made up appropriate mandrels for supporting the bearing outer race and keeping them 'square' while driving them in.
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Jossi
Posted on Tuesday, December 10, 2013 - 05:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wheel bearings if i remember right are front
6005RSH and rear 6006RSH they are deep grove ballbearings when i mount them i put press on
both inner and outer race that is ok

look at our fitting tools TMFT 33

Regards
Jossi
SKF Sweden
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Matteson
Posted on Tuesday, December 10, 2013 - 09:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ya i commercial flat roof and have Leister heat gun that I couldn't do without. The all thread and fender washer method is what I have started to gather up for the press. Although O Rielly auto parts has a fitting set I thought about checkin out. Thanks ya'll
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Zacks
Posted on Thursday, December 12, 2013 - 07:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dry ice is cheap. Put it in a cooler and toss the bearing with it. That way it's in the shop with you until needed.

Infra red heat lamp in one of those clip on lamp reflectors - just don't get it too close. Same as a heat gun with that caution.
Unless you like the blistered paint look.

For a press, a longish 5/16 bolt with a couple washers and sort through your sockets to get the right size for a 'press'. Assuming you have a moderate size collection...
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Jossi
Posted on Friday, December 13, 2013 - 04:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

sometimes when we need to cool small parts
we put them in to a styrofoam box and use carbonic extinguisher , if i remember right
the carbonic that left the extinguisher is about -70- -80 C , not only bearings , valve guides and other engine parts
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