| Author | Message | ||
     Mvaughn556 |
i'm in the process on tearing my bike apart. removing motor from frame. any advice any would have will be greatly appreciate. insinuating the inner gas tank, valve lash inspection, exhaust wrapping and ect. do's & don'ts and other recommendation anyone encounter on there experience. | ||
| Phlegm |
Do take lots of pictures so that you can remember where everything goes. Don't wrap the exhaust. Do have a manual. Do take lots of pictures. Might as well buy and install this while you are in there. http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/parts-accesso ries/engine/106mm-big-bore-stage-1-upgrade-kit-wit h-ebr-exhaust-system-ecm.html | ||
| Mvaughn556 |
wish i could but cant afford now why not wrap the exhaust? got manual,pics,and the next 4 months till the warm weather thanks | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Have that Service Manual. | ||
| Phlegm |
I can't speak from personal experience, but from what I have read. If you search for exhaust wrap on this site and buellxb there are mixed opinions. Some opinions are that the headers fail quicker with a wrap on. Cracking and corroding specifically. Personally I don't think the wrap looks good. The frame insulation will take care of a lot of the heat issues. This I know from my experience. | ||
| Jdugger |
I've got two of these things torn apart right now. Season service! Ask specific questions and I probably know some of the details. I do a valve check at least once a year and that includes a total tear down. | ||
| Shawns |
Go with the ceramic coating of your exhaust. It will decrease exterior temp. A good thing if you plan on doing a full fairing kit. | ||
| Jdugger |
The right bodywork does more to cool these bikes than any other modification. | ||
| Lospice1 |
Look on youtube there are a couple of good videos. rob weaver has a very good one. Cant find the link at the moment  will | ||
| Matteson |
I have my exhaust wrapped right around the intake snorkel area but that's it. Don't know if it helps keep the hot air going into the air box for sure. Seems ok. | ||
| Psycobilly |
Put rags around your timing chain voids and screw spark plug in a few turns when removing or installing shims, they are tiny and can be hard to find if accidentally dropped. I removed my whole frame/tank and front end assembly, leaving just motor/box attached to swingarm/rear wheel to gain easy access. Take careful note where your harness and throttle cables run around the intake snorkel. Took a few go's to get it all happy again and not having sticky throttle at certain bar angles. Went with ceramic coating on my header pipes, came up a treat | ||
| Phlegm |
Use a piece of fuel line hose or something similar to take out and install the spark plugs. Those buggers are deep! | ||
| Figorvonbuellingham |
Take pictures when dis assembling for reference. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Here's a link to Rob's website. http://www.crotchrocket.tv/ His videos are unequalled. My tips - When rotating the engine down, keep a close eye on the horn wires. When changing shims, fill ALL the holes into the engine with rags. I spent 3 or 4 days with arthroscopic fiber viewers looking for a shim. I did NOT want to split the cases. If I had tried to start the motor, it would have exploded. don't drop a shim.    This bike is designed to be worked on, at least that's my feeling. Z | ||
| Nillaice |
start all bolts by hand so you don't cross-thread the bolts for the radiator shrouds. and if you do; spin the crap out of it with a drill to melt the plastic around the brass nut, then let it cool and solidify. why not wrap your headers? those headers are 2-into 1 with alot of compound bends, so it will be very difficult to make it not look like complete doggy poo ... unless you like doggy poo. |
