| Author | Message | ||
     Ogobracing |
The dreaded clutch weep arrived so the original actuator was replaced with the EBR kit. Upon completion, the clutch did not want to engage, but after playing for a few minutes, popping the cover and trying to figure out what was going on, it did engage. However, when whacking the throttle under load the clutch slips. I don't understand. My first reaction was there might still be air in the lines, but that should prevent the clutch from disengaging, the act occurring when pulling in the lever, not the opposite way. Or am I totally off base. Any help or suggestions appreciated (Message edited by OGOBRacing on November 01, 2013) (Message edited by OGOBRacing on November 01, 2013) | ||
| Two_seasons |
hope this helps... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/708551.html?1366475030 | ||
| Ogobracing |
Two-Seasons: Thanks. I read through the thread. It seems as if there are a couple of potential fixes, and nothing definitive. | ||
| Two_seasons |
The "S" nut seems to be the culprit in that thread. Hope it's your solution too. Good luck and let us know what finally fixes it. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Back off on the S(spherical)-nut a little. Try and repeat until no clutch slip. Z | ||
| Nuts4mc |
a) the spring in the slave cylinder pre-loads the action of the slave piston...I have not done a "first article" inspection on the OEM piston vs the replacement piston...if the spring compression is increased due to dimensional changes between the piston and cylinder it will increase the spring force (in the wrong direction) on the piston (and rod) causing the clutch to slip. b) easy fix as noted above by Zac...back off the spherical nut (1 turn at a time)to decrease the "pre-load" of the cylinder's spring so that the clutch can hook up c) in my youth racing flat track and later desert - if our clutch started to slip before the main event or at our practice start of the "bomb" run...we would add washers to the clutch springs to pre-load their pressure and help the clutch hook up....we always carried the right size and qty of washers...it was too late, too dark, or too dirty to be pulling plates at the track or back at camp. d) the clutch is easily accessed on the 1125 ...tip it on it's side to help gravity keep the oil in the engine e) remember the clutch is supposed to be a "slipper" clutch activated by vacuum...the "window" between "hooked up" and "slipping" is small...any increase in spring pressure in the wrong direction will cause it to slip f) if you waited too long to fix the weep and forced the clutch to slip ( stopping and starting)...it's possible the plates are toast (glazed) you can try to lightly sand them to remove the glaze but the best fix is the Barnett kit from Al at American Sport Bike...those plates with the stock springs work well....hope this helps...we've all been there before. |
