| Author | Message | ||
     Websii |
I searched the forum, and also a generic web search, but I cant seem to find a source for the OEM Buell heated grip kit. Most of the results talk about the wonders of the kit, but don't provide a link or source for them. Does anyone know where to get them? Also, I read that the heated grips are NOT compatible with Throttlemeister throttle locks, but noticed some of the posters talked about cutting a hole in the end for a bar end, and was thinking that was all that was needed for the throttlemeister. Anyone have any experience with this issue? | ||
| Torquehd |
They are available from HD as an OEM part (buell accessories are no longer available, but OEM parts are). PN: N1050.1AK. The pricebook I have is a couple years old, but they went for $189.00 when I bought mine. This was one of the first accessories I purchased for my 1125. I HIGHLY recommend them. They are straight from the Buell Motor Factory, so they are 100% quality parts that are made to fit your bike and not some cheesy chinese company that makes a one-size-fits-all. | ||
| Zacks |
Al has the switch pod, but he's not listing the grips any longer. http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17301.html I think the grips came stock on the Uly's so you should be able to order them up from a dealer if you can't get the whole kit. The kit does come with the drill guide for the handlebar to properly position the screw that holds the grip on. If you can't get a kit, let me know and I can send you the guide. Can't say enough good things about the grips. Even managed to retrofit them to my '04 XB12 as well. | ||
| Steeleagle |
I have the Buell heated grips with my Throttlemeister. Works fine. The only change is I didn't install the Throttlemeister friction piece they provide. I just use the grip face as the locking surface. | ||
| Websii |
Outstanding! Thanks guys! | ||
| Zac4mac |
Pretty sure you don't need to do any cutting. Both my Buells have bar-ends. Hardest part of the install on Loretta(08 1125R) was drilling the holes in the bars. I went thru 3 or 4 drill bits. They are pricey but worth every penny, my 09 Uly came with them. I put them on Loretta after the first 20 miles.. high that day was 26F. The big advantage these grips have over others is 2 heater coils per grip. Lo is one and high uses both. They heat up pretty quick too. Zack | ||
| Torquehd |
why do i not recall needing to do any drilling on mine? | ||
| Kesnei |
Twin Motorcycles sells it: http://twinmotorcycles.nl/webshop/artikel.asp?guid =YXHFSC&aid=636&cid=5152&s=&a=&aname=Buell_XB_1125 _Heated_Hand_Grip_Kit AmericanSportBike Just partnered up with them and they can get anything that TM sells. So you should be able to contact them for the price. -Kes | ||
| Torquehd |
you may want to check with your local HD shop. that link advertises them at 300 euros, which is 400 dollars. I think the HD dealership would cost you less. And you could keep your business in the US. | ||
| Sportster_mann |
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Buell-Heated-Hand-Grip-K it-New-N1050-1AK-/390673413979?pt=Motorcycles_Part s_Accessories&hash=item5af5f3375b | ||
| Froggy |
N1050.1AK is still available for order from any Buell dealer. The price has gone up, it used to be just under $200, now it is $244 | ||
| Kesnei |
I will have to look it up, I like buying US, but I do know Driz over there at TM is a stand-up guy dedicated to keeping Buell alive. But it is true he is based out of the Netherlands. | ||
| Al_lighton |
I could sell the Buell Heated grip kit, but frankly, it is overpriced and there's a better way to do it. We stock the OEM switch pod that comes in the kit and has the off-low-high heated grip switch and all the connections, here: http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17301.html Once you have that part, any dual element heated grip kit and any grips can be had for less than the cost of the Buell heated grips. This is an advantage for a few reasons. 1, you can select a grip that you like better than the Buell grips based on shape, texture, etc. 2, when the grip wears out or is damaged in a crash, you can replace the grip for a lot less than the $70 that each of the Buell grips cost. See http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/5669.html for the heated grip kit that we sell. Some folks prefer Polly heaters that live in the bar instead of under the grip. See http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17301-Conn.html for the connectors that you would put on your heated grip kit that mate right to the connectors on the Buell Switch pod. Al (Message edited by al_lighton on October 15, 2013) | ||
| Zacks |
Al, I've always been curious what you use to hold the grip on with a heater. Seems that as hot as the Buell ones get if the aftermarket variety is close it would melt any adhesive - or at least soften it. I typically use hair spray to hold my grips on after wrapping the bars with electrical tape. Been working that way for almost 30 years on various bikes, just never had heated grips until the Buells. | ||
| Jdugger |
3M spray adhesive. | ||
| Websii |
Thanks A1. Is "Polly" a brand of heater that slides into the bar, and do you guys carry them? Zacks- I was lucky enough to get a switch pod from jdugger, but could use the template if you still have it. Although looking at the pod, it appears to be a direct replacement to the 1125 pod. Am I missing something? | ||
| Nuts4mc |
the polly heater was originally designed for snowmobiles....they have a model for motorcycles. the handle bars MUST be hollow ( at least a 5/8" inside diameter)...I have them installed on two bikes (Vstrom and a GoldWing)...the units on the Vstrom has been installed and working for 10 years...the installation requires some planning and some basic machining skills but once installed they are slick! ( no wires interfering with the twist grip action) the company is "old school" - you have to down load their order form and send in a check or money order...once the check clears...they send you the product....you can down load the order form from their site: http://www.pollyheaters.com/ph400.htm hope this helps...and if you ride for long distances in cold weather - you may want to look into adding some kind of "brush guard" like we use on desert bikes out here...here's a link to Acerbis...a big plastics company out of Italy that makes all kinds of plastic bits for dirt bikes. http://www.acerbis.com/home.php stay warm my friend! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Dennis Kirk sells the Polly heaters. | ||
| Jamesquick |
does this kit from HD the actual buell heated kit come with 2 new grips? | ||
| Froggy |
Yes the OEM kit contained two grips, the switch pod, the drill guide, drill bit, some wireties and cable holders. http://froggypwns.com/buellpdfs/Buell_Heated_Hand_ Grip_Kit_INSTRUCTIONS.pdf Part listing is on the last page. | ||
| Websii |
Polly heaters arrived today! I should be receiving the OEM connectors from A1 this week, and hopefully will have heated grips shortly thereafter. Does anyone know what kind of switch the OEM switch is? Not sure if I can hook the OEM switch up directly to the Polly heaters, or if I need to add a relay to shut off the low side of the heaters when the switch is set to "high." I seem to recall that the OEM switch worked by turning one element on for low, then turning a second element on in addition to the first for high. But the schematic and switch for the Polly heaters seem to show that one element should get power for low, then only the other element(as opposed to both elements) gets power for high. Has anyone installed this combination, or are familiar with how the OEM switch works? Or does anyone have a direction to point me to to find out? Thanks in advance! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Did you get the snowmobile version of the polly heaters (two wires) or the motorcycle version (three wires)? The motorcycle version has a three way switch, so you choose if the "real hot" or "insanely hot" element is powered. The snowmobile version has just one setting, "insanely hot". If you want to regulate that heat, you need some kind of switching regulator for it to be practical. You won't be able to do it with an inline resistor or something. I don't know how much current the Buell switch is good for. I don't know if it switches the feeds directly, or runs a relay of some kind. I believe the kits Al sells didn't include a relay, so they must just switch the current directly. The Polly's are 15 watts a piece, so that would be about 2 amps through the switch. High, but not impossible, for that size of a switch physically. I don't know what it is actually rated for. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
you'll need an Ohm meter to check out the "Al switch"...it needs the same "logic" as the Polly heaters switch ( Motorcycle version)...which I believe is single pole ( the +12Vdc) double throw ( one lead is hot, and the other lead is hotter) SPDT (single pole double throw)...if the "Al Switch" is On/off ( single pole single throw, SPST) hook up the lead to the "Hotter lead"...it get kinda cool back there in OH10!....you'll have to regulate it by manually turning it on and off...( that's what I do with mine) | ||
| Al_lighton |
I wouldn't run the heater current through that handlebar switch. It's meant to switch a relay. If you have a 2008 and later bike, the relay is already on the bike, and the aux female connector that the switch pod plugs into is already routed to the front of the bike. The handlebar switch pod will plug right in. All 1125 models have it. The ECM controls that relay, and it doesn't activate it until several seconds AFTER the engine is running. So do your testing with the engine running. However, if you have a pre-2008 Buell model, you want to run a FUSED wire from the battery up to the front. Get a relay (the one Buell uses in the relay box is a good candidate, see http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17302.html, and get 2 1/4" female spade connectors and 2 female .188" spade connectors). Use the lighting circuit for the control side of the relay, and then run the power to the switch pod from the battery through the relay. The switch pod comes with both a female and a male input power connector so that it can be daisy chained on the Uly's. That is, 12V power comes from the relay and terminates in female connector on the bike harness. The switch pod plugs a male connector into that female connector to feed the grips, and ALSO provides a second female connector on it that the Uly cigarette lighter then daisy chains into. But if you aren't using that cigarette lighter, you can cut that daisy chained female connector off of the switch pod harness, and use it to wire to the 12V wires coming from the relay so that your male connector on the switch pod can plug right in. A picture tells a better story, see http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/media/ ccp0/prodxl/5669_Dual_with_17301_small.jpg Al | ||
| Al_lighton |
Here's the picture:  The Buell switchpod has a low and high position. In the low position, only the low element is on. In the high position, both the low and the high element are on. Al | ||
| Reepicheep |
And for what it's worth, if you are an electronics hobbyist, I am actively working on a next gen thermostat controller as well. There may be another prototype working by Jan. It will have some really cool features. | ||
| 82cycles |
OLD thread but... I'm looking for a drilling guide for my '09 1125CR. Wish the whole kits were available, I know 12 years later. I'll make a request in classified as well. Thanks guys. |
