Author |
Message |
Larryjohn
| Posted on Monday, October 07, 2013 - 02:38 pm: |
|
So I had a low speed lowside this past Saturday at the track which for the most part resulted in minor damage except for one item. The upper footpeg mounting hole on the engine case broke off. I have a few ideas on repair, none of which are simple but I'd like to get some input and additional thoughts. I think the correct way to fix it would be to build it up with a welder then drill and tap a new hole. The biggest problem with that would be the surface between the case and the footpeg/spacer. That is a machined surface and it would be hard to get the surface perfect. Another thought is to bolt up a new footpeg bracket using the other two bolt holes which are in good shape. Then and run a bolt into the broken area since there is about 1/2" of the hole that is undamaged. I could then build up the area around the bolt up to the mounting bracket with JB weld. Ugly but it might work. It would make it almost impossible to get the bolt back out but a friend of mine suggested that coating the bolt in grease might prevent the JB weld from adhering to the bolt. Not sure I like that idea but I might try it on something else just to see if it would work. I could get a new engine case. I don't really like that idea since the engine was built by EBR, I would rather send the engine to EBR. Or I could just leave it as is and see how well the footpeg bracket holds with the other two bolts and just the 1/2" of remaining threaded hole on the upper bolt hole. I'm curious what some of you guys think. Here are some pics. As you can see there is about 1/2" of threaded material left on the case.
This is the only broken piece I have
|
Oldog
| Posted on Monday, October 07, 2013 - 03:29 pm: |
|
weld up re machine if you do the work look into a new case |
Rodrob
| Posted on Monday, October 07, 2013 - 03:32 pm: |
|
Since one of the other holes is really just a mount for the muffler, I would be leary of relying on it for any support. I don't think JB Weld will hold, given the stresses involved. IMHO, replacing the right, side case is the best thing to do. Doing so would not disturb EBR's engine work. The only thing you would have to do is re-align the water pump gear and that is easy. Everything else could stay in place. Short of that, welding might work. Then hand file/grind the spacer surface as close as possible. the foot peg mount will flex to some degree. Good luck. |
Larryjohn
| Posted on Monday, October 07, 2013 - 04:48 pm: |
|
Thanks for the feedback. Looking on e-bay it seems that used engine cases aren't too expensive - under $200. Could be a good winter project. |
Rodrob
| Posted on Monday, October 07, 2013 - 06:51 pm: |
|
Make sure you get the same year. Some minor changes in oil flow year to year. |
Larryjohn
| Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2013 - 10:06 am: |
|
I really need to change the title of this thread. Not sure what I was thinking when I started the thread with that title. I think I just typed something in and thought I would go back and change it before posting. Anyway - back to the topic. I have a question for you Rob or anyone with knowledge for that matter. Can just one side of the case be replaced or do they need to be replaced as a matched set? Also, the service manual basically has you tear down the entire engine to split the case. Not that I won't have time to do that this winter but i'm curious if there is an easier way to get just the right side of the case off and replaced, assuming you can replace just one side of the case without worrying about the machined surface for the cylinders mounting to the case. Also, as a side note, since my friend suggested the JB Weld and using grease to prevent the JB Weld from adhering to the bolt I decided I had to at least try it to see how it would work. Not on the bike mind you, just on a spare bolt and nut I had lying around. I sprayed some bel-ray chain lube on one bolt and Amsoil chain lube on another. I shook loose any drops after spraying and let them dry. I then threaded a nut onto each bolt and covered the nut and about 1/2" of the bolt threads with some quick setting JB Weld I had lying around. Waited for it to set up and voila - the bolt could be unthreaded and re-threaded by hand with some nice threads on the JB Weld. If I were in a pinch and needed to try a quick fix, I would probably consider giving that a try on the bike until I was able to find time to replace the case. In this situation I am staring down at a long winter so I plan to do the "right" fix now. I only have one more trackday this year (this Saturday) and will be taking my Firebolt trackbike - it's nice having two trackbikes |
|