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Uh60crewdawg
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2013 - 08:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So my bike is very much a custom build at this point but i have not messed with the engine or computer at all.. and thats where my problem is. I cant really explain what its doing so theres a video coming. Its clearly a fuel or spark issue. Although i have a new fuel pump new injectors new tps sensor and i've tried running the stock ecm All to still have the same problem. ive tested the coils and they appear ok. I'm stuck hopefully someones seen this problem before.

So my bike is very much a custom build at this point but i have not messed with the engine or computer at all.. and thats where my problem is. I cant really explain what its doing so theres a video coming. Its clearly a fuel or spark issue. Although i have a new fuel pump new injectors new tps sensor and i've tried running the stock ecm All to still have the same problem. ive tested the coils and they appear ok. I'm stuck hopefully someones seen this problem before.






http://youtu.be/YPQBh5W-hRs
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Two_seasons
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2013 - 08:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

TPS reset would be a good starting point.

Consult your manual and toggle to the screen that will make that happen.
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2013 - 08:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I saw your post of this on another thread, I'll repeat my comment here. I don't see anything wrong, the bike has a RPM limiter of about 5000RPM when cold or in neutral.
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Spike240sx
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2013 - 09:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yup, what froggy said. Warm the bike up, Put it in gear and with the clutch pulled in, see if it does the same. If will probably rev fine.
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Uh60crewdawg
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2013 - 10:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It does this in gear at 180 degrees going down the freeway at every rpm
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Uh60crewdawg
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2013 - 10:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

it bucked every 4 secs at 6000 rpm on a 160 mile road trip. Constant every 4 secs its like a rev limiter fuel cut off but its all the time any gear any temp
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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2013 - 11:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When you go to the gear selector display screen, does it show what gear you're in, or does it show a "-"?

If your clutch switch is bad, it could think you're in neutral all the time, or have the clutch pulled in, causing the rev limiter to cut in. When it happens, does your tach pointer needle glow BRIGHT red?
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Zac4mac
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2013 - 11:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just watched your video.
That is NOT normal.
At the max rpm, the tach needle lights up seeming like a revlimiter.

My guess is it's either a bad ground at or near the IC/ECM or a bad IC or ECM.

Definitely NOT normal...

Z

<edit> although... I've never tried to peg the throttle in neutral.
It will blip well past 5k and I always let off the throttle.
Loretta's at the shop, I'll try and peg her in neutral and see if it does the same.
Pretty sure she won't...

(Message edited by zac4mac on September 25, 2013)
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Uh60crewdawg
Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2013 - 01:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

that wasnt with the throtlle wide open 5k ish is just where i happen to hold it for the video. Its a track bike my clutch switch is over ridden my bike is only on the idle fuel map when its in neutral. Ive cleaned all my grounds. the one off the engine and on the frame even did what several on here have and added a ground wire from the starter mount bolt to the neg terminal. The only thing making me not think its a ground is nothing flickers with the hiccup. the lights are steady cluster illumination is steady even my aux power is steady. battery charges steady at 13.7 plus or minus .2

When i run the stock ecm i do get a check engine light. Unfortunatly i had that one on during the rebuild and it has every fault code in the system displayed so its no help right now. race ecm shows no codes no check engine. video was made with race ecm. Also a ground would be such a precise timimg hiccup. its literally exactly the same every time. i thought for a second a bent valve, but if that was the case the hiccup would get faster as the rpms climb. this problem does not its the same at 2500 as it is at 15k Also idles perfectly normal first hiccup is generally the second i touch the throtlle which at low rpms causes a stall unless i rev hard and ride the clutch out.
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Sir_wadsalot
Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2013 - 07:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Are we sure this isn't the improperly machined stock rotor issue?
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2013 - 10:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1) like Sir W sez....chk the crank position sensor/trigger wheel

2) vehicle speed sensor...does the speedo work consistently?

3) do you have the correct coil wires connected to the correct cylinders (front is front, rear is rear?)

...I had an old SOHC Honda act kinda like this once - the cam was out 180 crankshaft degrees...the engine would start and run but wouldn't rev...IMO the ignition timing is out of "time" with the crank...in the ECM's brain it's running into the rev limiter and causing the "shut down"...check the coil wiring and the crank position sensor wiring...hope this helps
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Zac4mac
Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2013 - 11:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I fired Loretta up today and the tach needle lights up at 5k but she'll rev to redline.

Nuts has a point, I had a Lotus that had the distributor plumbed for CW rotation when it was CCW. ran like shit but it ran.
Can't see how you could do that with coil-overs.

Even tho you weren't WFO, you were still holding a "steady" throttle??

Z
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S21125r
Posted on Saturday, September 28, 2013 - 12:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thinking out loud here... O2 sensors plugged in? If so unplug them and give it a shot. Almost sounds like its O2 hunting for some reason. But then again the O2s are used for idle so you think its run like crap at idle too. Unless the IAC is compensating at idle? Also is the butter fly linkage tight and all springs present? Only other thing would be get spy or TP live data to see if there are any clues.
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Brumbear
Posted on Saturday, September 28, 2013 - 06:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would lean towards a coil issue or crank sensor
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Figorvonbuellingham
Posted on Saturday, September 28, 2013 - 07:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Borrow an ecm or if you have two throw the other in it to rule out that. Kind of looks to me like rev limiter issue.
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Frinzo
Posted on Saturday, September 28, 2013 - 09:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

To help clear the codes on this stuff stock ecm.. u can use ecmspy, but only for clearing the codes.. ive done this on my 1125 to help trouble shoot it.

I dnt know what all uve done to bike, but i would just suggest double checking all electrical connectors.

Can u try and explain what all you have done? This might help everyone narrow down what the problem is ..
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D_adams
Posted on Monday, September 30, 2013 - 11:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd take a hard look at the TPS. What's it do with the key on, not running? Should be rock solid steady in the diagnostic mode.

You said it's got "new fuel pump new injectors new tps sensor". Did this start prior to all those changes or after and why were all those parts changed to begin with?

I'd also look at the IAC, possibly remove/clean it.
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Sir_wadsalot
Posted on Thursday, October 03, 2013 - 11:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think he said in another thread that he'd chnged all those things out i an attempt to correct the condition.
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