| Author | Message | ||
     Nm5150 |
Today I noticed the AT in my cluster was at 179 and didn't go under 149 even in the rain.Does this mean I need to replace the AT sensor?I also wonder what this means to my ECM as far as fuel mapping goes.Anyone? Thanks | ||
| Froggy |
While that reading does sound high, it is not unheard of. The problem is that the sensor is located on the air intake right in between the fans. Once the fans kick on, the hot air they blow will heat the sensor up. Let your bike sit overnight so it cools off, then check the temperature reading before starting the bike. It should be almost the same as the coolant temperature reading. If it is still way higher, replace the sensor. It is $12 new at a Harley dealer or American Sport Bike, and it is a common automotive part so you can take it to a car parts store and grab one off the shelf cheaper. Given how cheap and easy it is to switch, it wouldn't be a bad idea just to change it anyway. Regarding fueling, it is on the bottom of the totem pole of all the sensors, it won't make any noticeable change in fueling as the O2 sensors will override it. | ||
| Nm5150 |
Thanks Froggy! | ||
| Jimustanguitar |
Do you think that's an accurate place to have the sensor mounted? Is the actual intake air that temp, or is the sensor just throwing wacky numbers at the ECM and leaning out the fuel injection? | ||
| Cherry_bomb |
i placed it into the airbox behind the filter in the filterdome. accurate readings all the time...no probs since then...  just to mention it, this is not my pic... (Message edited by cherry_bomb on September 20, 2013) | ||
| Froggy |
You don't gain anything by moving it. | ||
| Nm5150 |
Turned the key on this morning and it read 135 without starting the bike.Guess I will be looking for a new one.I still get a miss every now and the like I bumped the kill switch while cruising from time to time I am trying to figure out.It doesn't happen on the track or on back roads.Only when cruising at a steady speed.I am also getting a 14.6 volt reading a lot of times since I put in the Compufire VR.Any ideas? | ||
| Froggy |
Yep sounds like a good idea to change it, Autozone stocks them, Durolast number SU2004. Not sure about the miss, are you getting a check engine light when it happens? The Compufire VR holds the voltage a little higher than the stock regulator from what I've read, so that sounds normal. | ||
| Cherry_bomb |
"You don't gain anything by moving it." sure, accurate readings all the time... | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
I agree with the accurate readings comment (for my own OCD's sake), so how much of a difference do you think it is from the stock location? Also, and this is just me spitballing.... It seems like it's mounted in a stupid place stock, is it possible that on a 99 degree day, with the fuel boiling in the tank, that it's actually hotter inside the airbox and they didn't want to risk a heat soak effect? | ||
| Cherry_bomb |
it's quite windy in there, when idling about 2 cubicmeters of air every minute, when full throttle about 8 cubicmeters (8k liters of air). so, what's hot in there? the only problem which could arise is when oil from the vent is getting on the sensor...did not happen in 12'000 miles... sorry for my english...german is my native language | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
Not necessarily, it's right on top of a 220 degree engine surrounded by aluminum full of boiling fluid, and airboxes have odd vortices and whatnot, thus the popularity of velocity stacks..... if the bikes idleing, how much air is moveing? And if the bike's at high speed, the box is at positive pressure, meaning there's more air in the box than the engine can suck, which again would change how "fast" the air is moving in there. But mostly at idle.....and it's not as hot in the Western Europe as it is in the Southeastern United States. I meant heat soak at idle causing even hotter false readings than the stock location. There has to be a reason they put it n the "stupid" location it's in. It does seem like it should be where you put it, and Buell does nothing without a good reason. | ||
| Cherry_bomb |
...and buell does nothing without a good reason... haha, that was a good one...alright.... i'm actually very happy with the location in the airbox, no matter what theoretical bs i hear from various people. | ||
| Froggy |
For what it is worth, the XBs have the IAT sensor in the airbox, right next to the velocity stack and crank breathers | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
@Cherrybomb- My theoretical BS is mostly in favor of your location, I'm just trying to figure out why it's not that way from stock. On my SV1K it was in the airbox, and according to Froggy it's in the airbox on XB's. The only reason i can think of is heat soak at idle... | ||
| Cherry_bomb |
it's not your theoretical bs, i've meant.  yes, the xb's got their sensor in the airbox, but not exactly the same spot like the 1125 (my version). on the xb's, it's on the baseplate of the airbox, which heats up very quick the sensor itself and the baseplate, and keeps it like that, this was a problem on all xb's. the xb's do have another airbox, the baseplate is the only space they could put it on. i would agree, if the sensor on the 1125 is on the baseplate of the airbox, that would be stupid. but the actual location is just not right between the fans and all that "dirty" air. normally, air-intakes are foremost point of a bike (aerodynamically) and should go straight into the airbox without a lot of bents. the 1125s got it between the forks and the front and the wheel (fender), that's why it's "dirty" air. imho, this is the reason, why in certain condition it's better to leave the inner airbox-cover off. and the next thing i'm gonna build and test are two snorkels from the front directly into the airbox, like xbrr had. that would be the best solution of them all. something like that: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/158664/610155.html?1298518888 i think, they have been in a hurry to finish the bike. it would be interesting to see, where the sensor is on the ebr 1190rs (rx, sx, ax). does anyone know that? (Message edited by cherry_bomb on September 25, 2013) (Message edited by cherry_bomb on September 25, 2013) | ||
| Uh60crewdawg |
NM5150 Hey man i also have the hick up your talking about mine got progressively worse until i have a non rideable bike. I have replaced injectors tps sensor AT sensor fuel pump plugs you name it next is coils even though they test fine. I need this issue fixed bad i miss my bike. If you have any solutions id love to hear one. And if i fix it ill message you in case yours gets worse too. http://youtu.be/YPQBh5W-hRs | ||
| Froggy |
Uh60crewdawg, your bike looks like it is running fine. The bike has a rev limiter that kicks in around 5000rpm when in neutral or cold. | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
Yeah that looks like bouncing off the cold temp rev limiter....does it never get above 5K even when warm? It sounded like it was fine. ....so maybe they put the sensor where they did because the XB in airbox thing was bad, I'd never heard that. I like the airbox top scoops idea, the problem with that is that the aero is so good on the 1125R you wouldn't get any positive/ram air effect, but you would get constant cold air at any speed. I think ther are scoops on the Typhon, but they're mounted at the frame to catch air just below the nose/fairing to catch some pressure. I would LOVE to ee someone rig this up. | ||
| Nm5150 |
Hey Dawg, Mine is a little different.As long as I am getting after it pretty well I have no problems.Mine will only do it while cruising and is not consistant at all.I am wondering if it has anything to do with the 14.6 volt reading I am getting after changing the VR..... | ||
| Yugi |
I'm also running Compufire. It runs up to 14.5V, and I have no problems so far for 3500 miles. | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
14.5V is considered ideal charging voltage, 2Volts over 12.... All I see here is the improperly machined rotor causing the crank sensor to misread....supposedly there was a set of VINs on 2008's that you could look up that covered the affected models, but nobody seems to remember where to look that up. |
