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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through September 13, 2013 » Hid's wont fire « Previous Next »

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Rockstarblast1
Posted on Friday, August 23, 2013 - 11:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well I should of posted this last year but I was lazy and just said the hell with it. Anyways, I purchased 3 hid kits from ddm tunning. Two for my car and one for my bike. After I took everything apart and hooked up when I turn the ignition on only one head light will fire. It isn't only one in specific. I switched the bulb and ballast around to make sure it wasn't defective. Anyone have this issue? I'm guessing I need a relay harness and not too thrilled because the one I received from DDM for my car sucked and basically melted and they sent me another and it started to do the same thing so I had to replace the wires and relay and half make my own so I really don't want to order anything else from them. Their products have turned to shit over the years along with their garbage customer service. Any way I can wire something up without having to purchase anything online? I rather go to the store and do it all myself then wait to get something shipped.
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Friday, August 23, 2013 - 03:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

go here scroll down for pix...the bike needs all the juice from the Batt to turn over and start...what's left doesn't fire up #2 HID...the Caps help (from Radio Shack/Frys) ...been on mine for 2+ yrs ( pay attention to polarity of the caps (+, -) like in the pix)

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/632070.html

(Message edited by nuts4mc on August 23, 2013)

(Message edited by nuts4mc on August 23, 2013)
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Froggy
Posted on Friday, August 23, 2013 - 04:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Personally I would recommend adding a switch to the ground for the headlights, keep it off till you start the bike, then you can flip them on. It should be easier to start without the HIDs sucking the battery dry before the engine starts, then there will be sufficient power to start the lights reliably.
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Shawns
Posted on Friday, August 23, 2013 - 05:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can use the warning cancelers. They are basically the same thing as adding the cap.
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Noobuel
Posted on Saturday, August 24, 2013 - 12:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"warning cancelers" What is this you speak of?
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Shawns
Posted on Saturday, August 24, 2013 - 06:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Basically they are capacitors that maintain a charge and a load to tell some of the vehicles these days keep warning lights off. Here is an e-bay link
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=petmate+fresh +flow&_sop=15&LH_ItemCondition=3&_osacat=0&_from=R 40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1311.R1.TR11.TRC1.A0.Xhi d+ca&_nkw=hid+capacitor&_sacat=0 most are plug and play.
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Sprintst
Posted on Saturday, August 24, 2013 - 08:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Try reversing the wires.
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Saturday, August 24, 2013 - 09:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

SprintST has a point - some of the DDM kits were wired "backwards" - I had to cut the polarizing plug/key and then plug it in for the correct polarity (and tape the connectors together)...you may want to try that fix first before you spend any more $$s...check the color code(red is usually (+), Black or Green with a yellow strip is usually (-) /voltage polarity can be chk'd with a low cost voltmeter. hope this helps
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