| Author | Message | ||
     Jimustanguitar |
Hey everybody! I'm looking at an 1125R on Friday that (unless I find something bad) I intend to buy. What things should I be looking for? Is there a common failure that can be seen or heard easily? Is there a common repair to look for, or any other tell to be aware of? Is there any characteristic of the bike that scares some people off? Is there anything about this bike that I, as a first time buyer, might not like or expect? (I know that's a really open question, sorry) Thanks for the information, I look forward to being an owner and contributing to the group! Jim | ||
| Shawns |
The stator is a common failure on these. If it has the EBR rotor upgrade you should be fine. | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
Ask about warranty work done, and ask about recalls. Check the clutch seal, look for paint damage under the black rubber thingey on the clutch cover, that could indicate a repaired leak or a current leak. If it's leaking it's not a horrorshow, but it will cost you a few hours and 120 bucks or so to fix. Keep the fluid topped up....Get it knocked off the price. Listen for a dinging coming from the charging system, the loose rotor nutt. Again, easy fix. Look for a dead battery, check the dash unit, make sure it's not shorting or anything. Put it in neutral, make sure it rolls easily, if it's hard to push something in the belt tensioner system could be binding. I'm sure there are other things to look for, and better men than myself will bring them up. If you buy it- Change the oil, they run really hot! Use a good synthetic, Motul, Honda HP-4, AMSOil, something like that. Don't use the HD crap (Citgo) or the "synthetic" motorcycle oils from the parts store/WalMart. They're relatively crap and aren't any cheaper than the good stuff. Good oil dropped my peak temps 5 degrees in DC traffic. Everyone reccomends water wetter, but I haven't done it yet. The brake rotor tends to glaze, change out the fluid, scrub the rotor with 100 grit or a whizz wheel. Night and day difference, literally. If you plan on trailering/hauling it much, get a canyon dancer. The bar riser setup makes it trickier to strap down than a UJM sportbike, best $30 ever. Rev it. It doesn't want to lug down like an SV or a Superhawk. It wants to rev. Love it dearly, and treat it well. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
what year? if 09/10 then there is the stator that could go 08 doesnt have that issue but there is the chance of a dead battery, though not sure if they've fixed that or not. (i had it once about a year after buying and not since, i bought new in jan of 08) like others have said - the clutch weep and recall stuff like kickstand spring and then your usual stuff really | ||
| Jimustanguitar |
This is an '08 model (not the 25th anniversary one though). How do I know if it has the EBR rotor upgrade? Thanks again, I really appreciate the advice! | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
I think, it's usually the 09-10's that have the rotor issues. Not as big an issue with the '08. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Jim go here...it's way down the forum - it'll give you an idea of most of the issues: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/525759.html?1375602582 the '08 have a battery drain associated with the Inst. Consl. (IC). Use the kill switch to turn off the parasitic drain ( caused by the security system feature),,,it'll help the Battery - but go out and buy a battery maintainer and use it. look for peeling paint/loss of paint on the right side ( twist Grip side)of the engine cases...it's the slave cylinder on the hydraulic clutch weeping - we all get it (sooner or later), EBR racing has a fix ($100)...also plan on buying a race ECM from EBR...makes the engine a lot smoother...good luck! | ||
| Froggy |
All 2008s are 25th anniversary models, also all 2008s came stock with black plastics and with the purpleish blue colored frame. If it is an 08, there really isn't much to look for, as any potential issues would probably pop up after you buy it. The only two real things on the 08s was the battery draining issue (either a ECM bug or instrument cluster bug depending on the bike), or the clutch actuator leak ($100 fix). | ||
| Jimustanguitar |
I've read a little bit about the software updates on these bikes. Is there a way to tell if this has been done or not? Does the diagnostic display tell you a version number or something? I'll probably take a look at the '08 1125R I've been eyeballing this weekend. Any last thoughts on other things to look for? Thanks again! | ||
| Nuts4mc |
S/W updates....I don't believe there is any indication ( that you can bring up/read)of what version is installed (Froggy may know better) - you have to take it to the Dealer or purchase/build a "reader/interface" and use your PC with a program like ECM/Spy: http://www.ecmspy.com/ I purchased mine from a salvage yard and was able to ride it home - but 1) the voltage regulator was loose - not good it uses the alum. subframe as a heatsink - check to make sure it's attached and the hard ware is tight (clutch lever side under the tail body work by your thigh) 2) check the battery ( under the seat) with a voltmeter - if it's not at 12VDC - try and get a new battery out of the seller. 3) Wheel bearings - the bearings in the wheels sometimes go bad prematurely - if the "oil seals" on the side of the wheel bearings are orange in color...look for grease leaking out or around the axles and the bearings 4) brake fluid level in the clutch master cylinder...if it's low or empty - the slave cylinder is most likely leaking. 5) take a flashlight and try and see if there is any coolant in the overflow tank (from the front look up the throttle side radiator pod between the frame and the radiator - a white plastic tank you may be able to see the coolant level...if not have them remove the rt side radiator cover. 6) twist grip side on the engine above the clutch is the water pump ( hoses attach to it) - look for a small "weep hole" on the bottom of the casting "bulge"...any corrosion or evidence of leaking?- water pumps are not easy to replace. 7) take it for a spin and shift it through the gears (up and down)...how easy does it shift how easy is it to get into neutral...did you experience any clutch slipping when accelerating. 8) the gas cap does not pop open or is it hinged - it comes off the tank with a turn of the key...and sometimes it's hard to turn - so hard you can break the key off in the cap ...check it out before you buy 9) with the bike running ( or at least the key is in the run position) turn the bars lock to lock and watch for the display to change (or go blank) or any lights to blink or go out...( bad ign switch wiring) hope this helps, good luck...the bike is made for the twisties...if you buy it start saving you pennies for the race ECM, gas, and tires! | ||
| Jimustanguitar |
All great things to look for, thank you! | ||
| Tbowdre |
instrument cluster software version is found at end of diagnostic mode. hold toggle and mode buttons when turning bike on. toggle to the end. I think the latest is 6.2 1.0 if you like twins you will love this bike... it rocks | ||
| Zac4mac |
If it's an original 08 IC pretty sure it does NOT have "rev #" at end if sensor status. I don't remember seeing that until I got the 09 IC. Z | ||
| Rogue_biker |
If it's an '08 and you like it, it runs/can be ridden, has no bent frame or swing arm, engine is not shot/smoking/leaking, then just buy it. We will help you with whatever comes up. The issues with '08's are all well known and documented. Fixes are easy and not expensive. | ||
| Jimustanguitar |
Well, I won the eBay auction. I'm hoping to pick it up on Saturday morning. It's an '08 with 2k miles on it that I snagged for less than I expected it to go for. The pictures look great, and the owner says it's in mint condition. We'll see what she looks and sounds like in person this weekend. I'm not too scared of possible service issues. As long as it's always had oil in it and never spun a bearing, I'm sure it'll be fine. I've done whole engine rebuilds on past bikes, a couple head gaskets, etc. I rebuilt my first bike from the frame up. I'm buying this one to avoid chronic service and repair though, so hopefully that plan works out for me. I don't live near an authorized service center though. In your experience, are the HD shops that used to sell them pretty willing to take them on? I really just want someone to confirm that the recalls have been done and that everything has the newest software on it. I'm not sure if they'll be able to help me or not. | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
Congratulations on your new bike. Some HD dealers have been great to Buell owners while others just wish Buell would go away. I'm not sure who your local dealer is. American sport bike and EBR sell most any part you need without having to go to a Harley Davidson dealer. | ||
| Ratbuell |
You should be able to contact a dealer, either online or in person, with a full VIN and they can check to see if all recalls have been performed. If you get stuck, PM me your VIN and I can check with my local shop. They don't love when I bring a bike in for warranty...but they tolerate all my parts orders and smile when I walk in even though I don't do chrome  Congrats on the purchase. Keep it above 4000 rpm and ride it like ya stole it. My '09 CR has been treating me well its whole life, and that's how I treat it! | ||
| Sprintst |
I bought my 2nd, an 09 last year, with only 120 miles on it. I'm convinced sitting around dries out seals, since the forks let go about 3k in. I had a 1983 honda that was 3 years in a crate do the same They are actually easy to replace with the right tools, btw | ||
| Jdugger |
Low mileage isn't necessarily better, I agree. Garage queens have more issues than race bikes. | ||
| Jimustanguitar |
I picked it up today. Practically had to pry it out of the seller's cold dead hands (he wanted to back out of the sale and kept telling me that he set his reserve too low). I kept reminding him that entering into the auction was a legal obligation and that the sale was binding. Anyway... I'll need to do the clutch on it. I think I'll order the EBR one. Is there a good reason to double the price and get the American Sportbike version? Also, is there anything else that I should check while I've already got the cover off? I was also curious about how they're supposed to sound. The engine seems a little bit louder than I expected it to be. Do these engines have a little bit noisier valve train than their Japanese counterparts, or should I be checking my shims and chain tensioners? I'll let you know more after I get my clutch working and get her out on the road! Thanks again for all of the great info. Soon I'll know the forum a little bit better and stop asking the same questions as everyone else does when they're new  | ||
| Shawns |
They are all noisy. Call it character if you will. | ||
| Jaredc01 |
Mine's noisy as hell, especially below 4k RPM. Par for the course. Congrats on the new bike! As for the clutch weep issue, I'd personally go with the EBR direct option. When in doubt, go for the EBR upgrade / fix. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
The noise comes from the finger followers that actuate the valves. Most modern DOHC engines have shim under buckets that have direct valve actuation. The Helicon engine has finger followers that actuate the valves. This makes shim replacement very easy. However, it makes more valvetrain noise than the standard shim under buckets, which requires the camshafts to be removed to replace valve shims. Don't bother with reflashing your ECM. Just get the Erik Buell Racing ECM upgrade. It makes the engine run so much better...better than the factory re-flash. | ||
| Usmoto |
The biggest problem for me came when I sold my 1125R. Take it from me, don't ever sell it. I had an XB12R then moved on to the 1125R. Sold it because thought I had gotten tired of bent over riding. Big mistake, found out it was the greatest and funnest bike I ever owned. I just bought another XB12R and WILL get another '08 1125R in the near future. I am going to get one of each "era" of Buell bikes. ie: tuber, blast, rss1200, etc. Buy it, enjoy it but keep it. All Buells have class, pedigree and history. Not to mention they're pretty damn good bikes. Rock on EBR!  (Message edited by usmoto on August 18, 2013) | ||
| Zac4mac |
Loretta's pretty noisy, always has been. 28k miles. Was really bad when I ran 10W-40; I'm back to 20W-50 and it's a little quieter. All that top-end-rattle was the main reason I got a Drummer. I would rather have the exhaust be my audio tach. I build and fix machines and they should ALL run silently forever. I do NOT want to listen to a noisy valvetrain unless it's a solid lifter 327. Zack Oh yeah - welcome to the madness... Buell 1125 - the fastest machine Harley-Davidson EVER sold. |
