| Author | Message | ||
     Torquesauce |
So I won't go into full detail since this has been done a million times and Baf has an excellent write up on the topic (I referenced that PDF many times!) I'm just throwing up pics so those of us who are visual people can get another angle on the project. I did NOT buy an EBR locking tool, nor did I have a torque wrench for 295ftlbs. My dad fabbed up a DIY locking tool as well as a 32mm socket with an offset which allowed me to use a lower torque rating torque wrench to still put down 295ftlbs at the nut. The offset also allowed me to use a breaker bar with a socket on the crankshaft so I could take some of the brunt when I tightened the rotor down. Worked flawlessly. I'll probably do a separate thread on these tools since they're a story in themselves. Materials: EBR Rotor Stator from Ricks VR from Roadstercycle TechFlex F6 from Parts Express New Shoes from Revzilla Nuts/Bolts from Lowes Tear out was stupid simple. Got the stator and rotor out with ease. (Blue Heel Guards from Chris Reese, sweet looking add on IMO)  Got the stator out and easily found the burns. She didn't have much life left.  New EBR Rotor with Wire EDM'd hole.  Got a stator back from Ricks (They said they would send MINE back so I marked it with two punch points under the 49/08, I didn't get MINE back, but a stator that generates is enough for me; no complaints.  Also noticed some coating had run to one side and pooled, probably while it was drying. Shot a quick email to Ricks to make sure this was okay. He said it was fine.  Tore out the HD Band-aid Fix harness. Thanks for the free relay and Deutsch connector, HD! (KEEP THE Deutsch connector and use it for connecting your new regulator!)  Just hanging out here. I was also throwing on new Metzeler's Z8 Interact's, so I had the wheels off. Yes I know I need a front stand, I'm looking into it. A strap to the rafters around the lower tree held just fine though.  New CE-605SB regulator from Jack at Roadstercycle with TechFlex F6 1/4" wire sleeve.  People rip on TechFlex F6 for fraying at the ends, I cut it with scissors (no heat), then used heat shrinks to terminate the ends and prevent fraying. Worked flawlessly. I also used 2 Layers of TechFlex for added protection and to hide the wires completely. I used 1/4" TechFlex sleeve for all the lines coming off the regulator and it was the perfect size.  I salvaged the female Deutsch connector from HD's band-aid harness, saved me some change. I opted not to buy a new connector for the power supply lines and took it off my old regulator. I'm quick with a soldering iron, so I can always swap it back if my new regulator fails for some reason. Also pictured: TechFlex wrap with heat shrunk ends.  Mounted the new regulator under the tail as many others have done, seems to get good air flow, and its a neat little spot to hide it. Looks good on the bike too.  Here's a shot of the regulator mounting from the inside of the tail. I used fender washers on two bolts just for added support. I kept the bolts short enough to not hit the battery or wire harness on the inside of the tail.  Regulator mounted and on the bike.  While I was in the tail, I relocated the relay block to in front of the battery instead of beside it. This was a super quick fix that afforded me some more room in the tail storage area, now I can stick a cargo net and a set of glasses beside the battery and still have tail space for whatever I can shove in there.  When I first ran into TechFlex F6, I knew I had other uses for it. I ordered a roll of 1/2" F6 to put over the oil cooler lines. I ran two layers of wrap over the lines, terminated the ends with heat shrink, and clipped the lines back on to the bike. Simple mod, blends in nicely, and the F6 feels like it will last. I checked heat rating on the TechFlex and it should hold just fine.  Success! 14.5v, dipping into the mid 13's under heavy load. Its fun to watch the voltage now, I can tell exactly when the regulator does its magic.   And that's my "visual" wrap up of the project. I hope these photos help somebody dive in and fix their issue as well. Thanks to everybody on the forums for tech support and previous write ups, particularly Baf and his excellent PDF of the project. Fingers crossed that I'm never in there again, but it was an awesome learning experience all the same! -Ride Safe (Message edited by torquesauce on August 06, 2013) | ||
| Craigsmoney |
Nice Job. Thanks for taking the time to post your fix. | ||
| Kevmean |
it looks like the first time you hit a large bump you are going to squish your hugger against the rear tyre when it gets trapped against the Vr in that position.... looks to me that it needed mounting further back higher up the undertray. | ||
| Jgarner99 |
Concur. Could be a safety issue if the tire gets "friction-braked" when you don't want or expect it to. It's hokey, but you might be able to check clearance by simulating full bump using a ratcheting web strap.... | ||
| Torquesauce |
You all underestimate my insight! I load tested it while I had it in mock up stages. Under the max load, given the test I could perform (myself jumping on the bike, followed by my father (a formidable man) doing full weight compressions on the tail)I still had clearance. It was certainly close a couple of times, but I'm thinking I would have to nearly bottom out the rear end to have any issue. If and when that time comes I'll certainly come back here tail between legs, but I don't anticipate it ever being an issue. I may bring the front end up on occasion; but I try to keep the ass end down when ever possible  | ||
| Sportster_mann |
I seem to recall reading somewhere that mounting the R/R there was not a good idea as it doesn't get enough air flow ... | ||
| Torquesauce |
I suppose its possible, I searched the forums and saw a few different people mounting them there with no apparent issues. Could always sneak up on me though. I'm confident that it'll stay cool enough when I'm on the move but I'll certainly keep an eye on temps. | ||
| Kevmean |
Just wait until you hit an unexpected pothole at speed  .............. they certainly bottom out then if you could get it near doing static tests it will foul when out on the road | ||
| Northernyankee |
I am just curious about how you got the bike to float...lol (Message edited by Northernyankee on August 07, 2013) | ||
| Torquesauce |
Yankee, if you look closely right behind the windscreen, you'll see a 3" wide strap coming down from the ceiling. I brought it down under the tree and back up. Its hooked around the rafters from the garage. My brother had his whole ZZR600 hanging from the rafters before, so I was comfortable hanging the front end for a few hours. | ||
| Torquesauce |
So, here I am, sitting down for a nice plate of crow, because I just love eating crow. The Regulator hit. I mad a massive misjudgment in my static load tests. It was 2AM and I have no idea where I went wrong. But moping aside, here's my story: Went out for a quick spin the weekend after the initial mod's, 15 miles or so. I stuck my hand between the regulator and the fender and felt the collision so I figured I'd investigate further. Took a look at the fender and the tire had rubbed it, minimally, but I knew I needed to make changes. Dad and I fabbed up a sweet bracket to hang it under the tail right up underneath my fender eliminator kit. Better air flow, no chance of it rubbing the tire (I did a proper static load test this time, see end of post), and it's hidden out of the way. Pix galore with some descriptions: Here's a shot of the bracket and regulator from the under side. The bracket bolts directly onto my fender eliminator kit with 2 bolts, the third, lower bolt, runs through my regulator bracket, through the fender eliminator, and into the sub frame; its not going anywhere.  Here's a side shot of it tucked up in there.  Here's a shot from the lower front.  Straight on from the side.  Shot from the rear, pretty tucked in.  Here's 2 load test shots. I used a ratchet strap through the sub frame, through the rear wheel, and completely compressed the tail. Took a grown man plus the strap to get it fully compressed. This is flat out bottomed out, no room for error. Triple checked.  Some visible clearance. It was an inch plus for sure, this picture is terrible and for that I apologize. It was hard to get in there to measure and I was running low on 'care' at this point. I knew it was certainly going to clear in all circumstances, so I was a happy camper.  I started off with a piece of cardboard as a mock up, found some 1/4" plate, made my bend, made my cuts, drilled lots of holes, rounded the edges, prepped/primed/painted, and bolted it all up. I'll probably have it powder coated over the winter. Hopefully somebody can take this idea and put it to good use. My fender eliminator is a kit from Chris Reese (ebay: CREESE). He's a good dude with good products from what I've seen (killer customer service). If anybody want's dims or solo pics of the bracket, I can post some stuff up this winter. Unfortunately I wasn't in the "step by step photography" mode as I wanted this done asap for a weekend ride. I'm happy with the outcome, I wasn't sure about under the fender eliminator, but it turned out great.} | ||
| Torquesauce |
Also pictured, my new Metzeler Roadtec Z8 Interact. Which so far I'm loving. (Message edited by torquesauce on August 20, 2013) | ||
| Zac4mac |
Just a quick caveat - The added mass of the R/R on the aluminum plate fender eliminator may be too much. Keep an eye on it(watch for stress cracks near the bend) and have the plate re-made in S/S before it breaks. One of a small group of "good locations" for a replacement R/R.  Z | ||
| Torquesauce |
Thanks Z. I agree completely and plan to keep a close eye on it. I was worried the weight, the bouncing, and the vibration of the bike in total would put plenty of stress on it. And those R/R's are heavy SOB's to begin with. I'll include the bracket on my pre-ride inspection (GTO+B). And get it refabbed during the snowy months. | ||
| Yugi |
Torquesauce, Your original stator looks pretty healthy, and much better than rewound one. I wouldn't rewind it. | ||
| Websii |
Nice!! I had an aluminum plate machined for my regulator and then spaced it off of the fender eliminator using 1" aluminum spacers so that it runs parallel to the undertail (instead of parallel to the plate) | ||
| Websii |
Did you use the included fuse from the CE605, or just trust whatever circuit protection is downstream from the factory connection that you used? | ||
| Torquesauce |
I did not use the included fuse. There is a fuse in the factory fuse block for the battery circuit. I wired it all up and pulled the fuse, and checked for voltage. If it pops I have to get in and replace the fuse. But if pops; something is wrong, so I need to get in there anyways. | ||
| Websii |
Thanks! | ||
| Youk |
Torquesauce, I'm wondering if you have any pictures of your bike with the shock bottomed out from the side view? I'm trying to figure out where to mount my regulator. I would like to keep the stock license plate bracket. If you have a good side view, it may save me repeating your testing. Thanks. | ||
| Chitown2014 |
Hey Guys, New to BWB. Just picked up an '09 1125R and I'm doing the regulator/stator upgrade. One question: Has anyone had any problems with the heat from this CE-605SB VR warping the plastic on the tail that its mounted to? I was thinking of putting some space (a couple washers) between the two. BTW, thanks to all of you who've contributed to this topic. I've been diligently reading through all the posts and its been a huge help! | ||
| Sprintst |
FWIW - I bought a torque wrench, but since it didn't arrive in time, I said screw it and did the job anyway As a former mechanic, I wagered I could get close enough, plus there's only so much a nut that size can take anyway. Been fine for thousands of miles now. | ||
| Imblasted |
Torquesauce, How has the Mount held up? I am thinking about mounting mine the same way. | ||
| Dennis_c |
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| Reepicheep |
You have some lettuce in your teeth there Dennis.  | ||
| Imblasted |
Dennis that looks great! Is that bracket just welded steel, using the oil cooler mount? How long is the wiring? Where did you run the wires? Thanks | ||
| Figorvonbuellingham |
why did you move it? | ||
| Torquesauce |
Imblasted, Everything has held up wonderfully, been a bit since I've done a thorough inspection for stress cracks, though after the initial "break in" period I haven't been too worried about it. Dennis has a slick set up if you have body coverage down there, but depending on your set up that may not be feasible. | ||
| Dennis_c |
The bracket is welded steel the wires came with 4 or 5 ft. long. The wire ran up the up the right side of motor I wanted to run the wires up the left side of motor but I added other wires there. The other end of bracket went under kick stand bolts also that made the bike sit up a little straighter that mount would work on any one I have the side fairings on.   (Message edited by dennis c on May 25, 2016) | ||
| Imblasted |
Thank you very much for the pictures Dennis! and thank you Torquesauce for the update! Torquesauce, about how long are your wires to the stator connector? Also would you mind posting some pictures of inside the tail where you did the install of the updated location? Thanks guys! | ||
| Imblasted |
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