| Author | Message | ||
     Coastiebound |
Hey everyone, I am new here, but I am having some major electrical issues. I have just returned from a deployment and currently have had my bike fired up. Now, two weeks into it I have no electrical power at all. I do not hear anything turn on or see any lights at all. What I have done so far: -Removed battery took to Advance (100 percent charge) (battery report is good) -Removed and replaced all 10-15-30 amp fuses in the forward fuse box -Checked the ground -Tightened posi and neg battery connections -Checked for any grounds (frayed or torn insulation on wires) I am at a loss for words and have no clue what is going on. Any and all advice would be great! Thanks in advance. Matt | ||
| Spike240sx |
Broken wire at the ignition switch. The way that they move within the fairing stay puts some strain on them. I just had this happen to mine. | ||
| Shawns |
Yep, I had that on mine too. I resoldered mine, I have another ign switch and a gas cap with key if it is to bad, $40 plus shipping. Get a mutlimeter and test for continuity and you should be able to repair it. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Most likely a broken connection at the switch like Spike and Shawns said. The fairing stays put excessive strain on the switch's wiring and the wire breaks at the solder joint. You'll need a Torx security tip, I think it's a T-40. I used my bench lathe to center drill one I had, pretty sure Harbor Freight sells a cheap set with holes. Remove the switch and re-solder the broken wires. Try to pull a little slack in the harness. Mine broke a second time after the first fix, so I took a Dremel to the stays to relieve the stress.    The wires are just soldered to pads, so strip about 1/8-3/16" and tin the wire. Then heat the pad and stick the wire. Be quick, the longer you stay on the wire, the more solder will wick up the wire and break later. I fixed mine 3 years ago, no trouble since. Zack | ||
| Coastiebound |
Thanks for the responses, looks like it is time to take more of the bike apart  . My easy fix has turned into quite a nightmare. I will give this a shot when I get back from a week at the lake. I will grab a T40 from work and go to work. | ||
| Noobuel |
You don't need the torx. Just remove the bottom half of the switch, which only requires a Phillips head screwdriver. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Noo - you could remove just the electrical part of the switch? Now I'm pissed I worked too hard...  Good info. Z | ||
| Wymaen |
Z- Tell me you've replaced that throttle cable since this picture was taken  | ||
| Zac4mac |
No, why should I? The zip ties are to keep them from flopping in front of the dash and rubbing on the clutch line. Climate here is very dry so the little rubbed thru spot on the vinyl outer jacket hasn't caused any issues. Z | ||
| Wymaen |
Fair enough. I'm used to exposed raw metal bits looking like ass after a very short time here in MN. | ||
| Noobuel |
Yes, the bottom portion is held on by a Phillips screw on either side and it drops right off the key receiver portion.  | ||
| Zac4mac |
Looks like I'll get to try it again. Loretta's dash went black then the motor died, 2 blocks from the shop. All fuses good, dash lights up in "Lock" but black in "Run". Key on I have headlights and horn, no dash no starter. Thinking it might be the switch this time... Never a dull moment. Z | ||
| Zac4mac |
Totally different symptoms, other than being a start-power issue. Same problem. 3 of the 4 wires on the switch were broken. Broken 3/8-3/4" from solder joint. I think I am going to replace the switch's wiring with high-strand-count. like 28Ga welding wire... Might make it a couple of inches longer. Z <edit> Hey Noobuell - Thanks!! Pulling the switch with the 2 screws was super easy. I usually catch that kind of thing. not this time... (Message edited by zac4mac on July 24, 2013) | ||
| Noobuel |
Glad it was useful info. Can't claim I discovered it myself, I read it on here or BuellXB. | ||
| Sgtbuell |
Glad I found this post finally. Exactly what am dealing with. | ||
| Ponti1 |
Must have done this years ago. Have this issue now on my 2008 1125R. Just took it apart and see electrical tape, so I know I've been here before even though I don't recall it. But, the connections are all good on the switch. Turn key, and nothing. Battery is on tender and reads good. Now, I'm stumped. |
