| Author | Message | ||
     Levor |
Whelp I think I'm due for another stator. Was on a ride last night and charging dropped to 12.8, no higher. Finished the ride at bike night, bike sat for a couple hours, started it up, it went up to 14v until the bike got warmed up to 160-170ish then promptly dropped to 12.8-12.9v. This was at 11pm, was probably 65-70 out at teh warmest. RPM didn't seem to matter. Bike was sitting stable at 170F I know whats coming and I'm not going to let the bike strand me. I'm ready to do the upgrade route, and I sure wish we had a stickied thread or something equivalent with relevant info for people wanting the upgraded stuff. I'm thinking upgraded stator rewind, EBR rotor and thats it. I don't see a real need for the fancy-shmancy VR right now so I'm pretty okay with not doing that upgrade. Just the basics. Rotor, Stator, nut, ignition cover gasket and thats it, yeah? I've heard of a few shops that do rewinds but I can't recall the names and trying to search on this forum can be like herding cats - the software leaves much to be desired. Anyways, who is everyone using, and how do they roll? Buy a rewind, send my core back, or do I need to pull it all apart and send everything off? I know EBR you can order it outright then just ship your old rotor back for the core. Minimal downtime is the goal! I was also hoping to borrow that crank locking tool that a fellow member has been graciously loaning out. Advice, ladies and gents? Thanks guys  | ||
| Levor |
Its worth noting my recall relay was looking pretty cooked a few months ago, but seemed to have been working since my voltages were dropping to 12.3 when stopped then jumping right back up as soon as I got moving, hovering around 13.5ish regularly. I haven't disconnected it to see if maybe it got stuck shutting off a leg, is this possible too? I'm sure its totally buggered by now. I'd like to get more mileage out of this stator if possible. I'd kinda hoped it'd last more than 3500-4k miles since my last two I managed to get 8k out of them LOL I've been putting off doing the charging system upgrading due to tight-wad tendencies. Secretly hoping I can keep riding til at least the summer weather goes away. Any chance of that given my symptoms? (Message edited by levor on July 10, 2013) | ||
| Kevmean |
Just put a new relay in and see what happens...... they are very cheap to replace and should be occasionally anyway.If the relay has failed you will definitely be charging low. If you have a multi meter do a stator output check. | ||
| Sinnister |
Definitely test your stator output. You may have a burned out phase. You are getting no stator charge from the burned out phase and after the bike is warmed up and the relay kicks off a phase it may be the good phase which is why you are going down in voltage. Definitely check that since it's free if you already have a multi meter which you should have if you own an 1125. They should of put on in the tool kit. | ||
| Levor |
Process for checking across the legs? Anyone able to help out with the rewind process info? Shop, general turnaround, what I need to do when I sendmine, and can I buy a rewind or do they need my core first? | ||
| Redbat |
Levor. I recommend Ricks Motorsport Electrics for the stator rewind. I think you have to send them your bad stator first. Then they rewind it and return it. I think the turn around time is aprox. two weeks, but they will give you a better estimate. | ||
| Redbat |
Almost forgot, just scroll down about 13 threads on the 'Charging Subforum' to "My write up on fixing the charging system", and Baf has an excellent explanation on how to change the stator. | ||
| Levor |
Ahhh yes that's the write-up I was looking for! Couldn't for the life of me find it. Not sure how I managed to miss it lol! Upon further inspection I've come to an interesting realization.... The discolored wires I'm seeing are what I can only assume to be the voltage regulator harness, not the relay harness as previously suspected. Not good. The wires at the vr connector are rock hard and smell of burned electrical. these same wires are the ones I noted to be darkened ages, one stator and many thousands of miles ago, no doubt, but incorrectly attributed to the relay harness. My voltage has never spiked or cleared 14.2. Why is the wiring Browning here and not at the relay? Could the increased resistance be causing the drop in voltage? My relay always seemed to work, dropped to 12.3ish when at low speed or stopped, then picked back up when moving. Even that night I posted about. It just never cleared 12.8-13.0 when moving once temps got up to spec. I've never heard of discolored vr wiring so this concerns me that there may be more top the puzzle than meets the eye. | ||
| Redbat |
Have you verified that all the grounds are clean and tight? After that I would replace the voltage regulator too. (Message edited by Redbat on July 14, 2013) | ||
| Levor |
I've actually considered that, but wasn't entirely sure where exactly the grounds are located. I've heard of only one - somewhere on the swing arm? Unable to locate it, or any others for that matter however. I've found only one odd wire under the tail held on with a nut, APPEARS to be a ground but wasn't entirely sure and wasn't terribly keen on just going around willy nilly unbolting things LOL | ||
| Kevmean |
If the current flowing through the wire was the problem chances are the complete length of wire would be discoloured , if it's only brittle and discoloured at the end the cause is a bad connection increasing resistance at that point. | ||
| Levor |
Hmm that's very writer's then. I suppose I ought to consider replacing the vr then. Where is everyone getting that upgraded voltage regulator from? I found a kit online but reading that write-up indicates I only need to buy the ce 605 deal which being on my phone has been quite fun to try and locate. That in mind, dies anyone have their old, working vr they'd be willing to part with? I just can't see the need to mount that massive thing on the bike with the upgraded system but figured I'd see what my options were before settling. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
ce605...go here: http://roadstercycle.com/Roadstercycle%20New%20Ser ies%20Regulators.htm the OEM VR is produced by Ducati...the heat is dissipated thru the aluminum sub frame - make sure that the two bolts holding it (the VR) onto the subframe are tight - if you remove it - there is thermal paste (looks like white grease) under the VR - do not wipe it off...if you do - replacement thermal paste can be found at some Radio Shacks or better autoparts store ( GM used it on their Ign Modules back in the 80s-90s) the issue is that the OEM VR is a Shunt type - turning excess energy into heat both back into the stator ( to be cooled by engine oil)and the frame....the CE605 - does not shunt/short out the stator but sends the excessive energy into that big heat sink....buy the CE605 - don't waste your time and energy with the stock VR that will fail again. | ||
| Levor |
Dang, thats the one I saw then. Was hoping for a cheaper option - 159 for a regulator is a tough pill to swallow, especially considering I'll have to mount the big ugly bastard up underneath the tail section - something I'm not really wont to do. I know, I know, vanity vs reliability, but I kinda like having a clean undertail...  In all seriousness, how much am I really going to need this thing if I'm doing the rotor mod and stator rewind... I know the general consensus is to replace it ALL but this thing just seems like overkill if the issue itself is the stator not getting enough cooling - and at 159 bucks is a little steep though maybe I'm lacking perspective here! Bear with me, I'll be the first to admit I don't entirely understand everything regarding the charging system, and I've tried my best to stay read up on the facts behind the problem but I've been lucky enough to just not have to care about it until my extended warranty finally ran out - now I get to play catch up on the information! Either way I'm probably going to start on tearing down the bike this weekend so I can get the rotor and stator sent off (which reminds me I need to call Rick's to get that ball rolling) then start ordering parts. Just really kinda secretly hoping I don't really need to drop 160 bucks on a big ugly regulator... hehe | ||
| Froggy |
The VR does not need to be replaced unless it has failed. The stock one works fine. I would only replace it if the stock one fails. The stock one works, it is adequate, but the CE605 is a superior unit. Both my 1125s have over 20,000 miles without issue with the stock one, but if they one day fail I'll do the CE605 instead of another stocker. |
