I saw what I think to be Mountainstorm's Youtube vid...(Cyberdruid?) and pulled my inner airbox for the noise. Initial butt dyno said the off idle fuelling was sloppier, but no noticeable power difference. I did like the dirtbikey burble though.
Later that day I went to an open house and ran it on a mobile dyno for S&G's.
The first thing out of the guy's mouth was "Is your airbox stock? Your curve shouldn't look like this."
He then showed me one he had done a few weeks before with a full exhaust and EBR ecu. 145hp and smooth as a baby's bottom. "It should look like this."
I left it off a few days for the noise, but at steady throttle opening it surges a tiny bit and the extra throttle needed to get it past the dead spot off idle made it feel weaker down low. I put the inner box back on and it does "feel" better.
So no, the removed inner airbox with stock ECU doesn't help power anywhere, although I do miss the burble.
Poopie Curve.....Izzat a dyno sheet or a lie detector?
Did the operator sit on the bike or strap it down to the dyno? If not, that's at least half of the problem. I had 2 different shops try running it standing off to the side without strapping the bike down.
Interesting. Ive had my inner airbox removed for a couple of years and the bike is very smooth off idle and cruising. Back when I initially removed the air box I ran with it off a few days, then back on for a few days, then off and it sure seemed to have more power at low speeds and cruising to snapped WOT.... like power wheelie stuff.
Your butt dyno experience seems to be the consensus. It's possible that the ugly curve being stuck in my hindbrain was having a detrimental affect on my butt dyno calibration.
When I say I felt things, I mean I was intently looking for things to feel...it wasn't anything even noticable, other than the off idle dead spot.
The bike was not strapped down in the rear, yes, that will make a difference.
Notice how the bike in this video didn't stutter on the dyno at all? It wasn't strapped down super tight or anything, but enough to keep it from bouncing around any at all.
Btw, the 119-122 hp comment in the video here was from a superflow dyno, not a dynojet. It reads roughly 12% lower than dynojet. Dynojet numbers were more like 137 or so, and this was prior to any real tuning on the pipe. This is what it made with just the base race calibration. It added another 6 hp with tuning.
Yeah I've seen this vid before and I know how the numbers pan out between dyno manufacturers....but I don't think the rear straps are going to make that big a difference over a 200 lb fat guy sitting on it?
It lugged on the second pull because he hadn't started the roller cycle, or whatever. He had to go back and hit the button, something on the screen went from red to green and then it went.
And I didn't see it bouncing around....but that's the first time I've done anything on a dyno.
The two guys who went before me on gixxers both had smooth curves and he did theirs the exact same way.
I'm not saying he shouldn't have strapped it, but he was pretty heavy, I didn;t see it jump around, gixxerboy didn't have the choppy graph, and he literally asked me about the airbox as soon as he shut it down.
Is 119 a low number for stock, or are we just talking about the choppy graph, here.
It was like, 95F, by the way, and again, no dyno experience here, so I could be wronger 'n two boys fkucin'.
have you de-noided your bike? Did you tie the front and rear butterfly linkage together?
That actually looks like my dyno run last summer as far a jaggy SAE smoothing 5. At this point my guess in my case is my fuel pump(#3). Close to time to do some more tests.
Finally got time last month to pull the ignition cover and get the right loctite(Red 272) and final torque(295 ft-lbs) done.
My ECM is on it's way back from Clutchreaper so I will be riding Loretta more. She has 28+ kmiles, the 09 Uly just clicked 32k on my trip to Cheyenne VAMC.
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The first 3, showing 2 of them, were very consistent and smooth. The run last summer was even choppier than the one of Sir_wads.
I haven't denoided, but it was a 4th gear roll on, so it shouldn't affect top end (in 4th), right? 1-3rd retard on my SV1K, I assumed it was the same on the 1125. Do I need to do the butterfly bondage before denoiding? Or only after. I just adjusted my throttle and it made a huge difference....
125-128...is that bone stock?
Has anyone else done a run without the airbox lid?
Too bad I was just screwing around and didn't get a stock pull for reference, and I looked up the smoothing, I thnk Jdugger's trying to say it's unlikely the line would be that choppy just from the airbox, thus the strapping issue....just saying I didn't "see" that.
So the consensus is that it is beneficial to remove the inner air box cover? I thought it was better on the dyno with it off but in real world the ram air pressurization of the box was better?
Also, I run better times at the drag strip with it off... this means better acceleration at sub 130mph speeds. I do notice around a 5mph loss at top speeds though 150+mph