| Author | Message | ||
     Workman482 |
I need some input from some of you who are more experienced with these bikes than I am. I love my 1125R but am having a problem with the front brakes pulsating badly. I noticed when I first started riding my bike and read on here it was build up from the pads. I cleaned the rotor using some 200 grit sandpaper. It worked great until I took a 2 and a half hour ride with some hard braking. Pulsation came back. I cleaned the rotor and de-glazed the pads, but this time it didn't work so well. I noticed some spots on the rotor so was thinking about replacing it and the pads. American Sport Bike has the finned rotor for the same price as the OEM replacement so I'm considering getting the finned rotor. http://s683.photobucket.com/user/workman4_82/libra ry/My%20Buell%201125R | ||
| D_adams |
http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/models/1125r/ 5mm-finned-front-brake-rotor-202.html http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/models/1125r/ 2015-compound-front-brake-pad-set-thick-backing-pl ate.html http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/models/1125r/ front-brake-rotor-mounting-kit.html Get all that, call it a day. Yeah, the pads are kinda spendy high, but well worth it. | ||
| Workman482 |
I'm guessing the rotor on americansportbikes.com is/was the 6mm rotor? Once I get this issue sorted out I'm going to have to re-learn how to brake on her as I can start trusting the front brakes more. What about the EBC pads from americansportbikes? I mostly use her for commutes, but I also take long, curvy rides every chance I get. Unfortunately I don't see any track time. | ||
| D_adams |
I'm guessing I have maybe 10k miles on a set of those 2015 pads, all street use. They work very well. I'll have to check the actual wear, but the last time I looked they were fine. | ||
| Dntndhd |
Speaking From Personal Experience, There Are Many Better Options Out There Than Ebc Pads. They Have The Same Feedback As The Wood Blocks Harley Used For 30 Years. Lyndalls Have Been Good To Me, But Beware, They Like To Eat Up Rotors. | ||
| Workman482 |
Thanks for the info. In that case dntndhd I think I'll skip the Lyndall pads as it seems I'll be replacing my stock rotor with less than 7k miles on the bike. That $185 price tag for the EBR pads is just too steep for my pocket book right now. Anymore suggestions for pads? Another thing coming out of the budget is header wrap and insulation sheet for the fuel rail. | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
I'm having the glazing issue as well, I ordered the EBC HH pads. I think your problem was that you cleaned the shite off your rotor, and then ran the same shitey pads and ended up with the same shite again. The EBC's are under $40.00 depending where you get them and have always treated me well on other bikes. Stock pads are generally made from cardboard and and hotdog leavings. Junk 'em. (I thought my rotor was bad too.) According to Jdugger, replacing the pads and keeping the fluid fresh is key, and unless you're actually racing, the stock rotor is fine. It just needs more heat! Their rotors are blued on the edges like a titanium exhaust system. I should have mine redone in the next two weeks, will report back. | ||
| Froggy |
This has not been my experience with Lyndal Golds. I have them on my XB, they were a little wooden feeling at first but after breaking them in and a few hundred miles they have a nice feel and plenty of stopping power. | ||
| Jdugger |
The OEM pad on these bikes is actually moderately aggressive, IME. It's not a race pad, but it's not a very good street choice either for someone doing anything less than experienced canyon carving. I've done plenty of track days on them and find them to work quite well for that! My personal pet theory is these moderately aggressive pads contributed to the front brake "issues" many were experiencing. You would be amazed at the number of ice-cold, pure silver rotors I've seen who's riders would swear up and down they were warped. For a guy commuting on his bike, I'd recommend something really soft. (Message edited by jdugger on June 24, 2013) | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
I'm partial to the Dunlopad HH+ compound pads. Their overall feel is similar to the stock pads, just more aggressive. Initial bite, cold stopping power, and overall stopping power are improved. Part number is SDP993 and you should be able to find them for around $100 shipped for a set. I'm not a fan of EBC pads--they are generally an incremental upgrade over stock but in the case of the 1125 where the stock pads are already moderately aggressive, I am skeptical that the EBC pads would be an improvement. | ||
| Brumbear |
I use the •••••• parts unlimited ones and change em every year. They do pulsate when they are worn. | ||
| Workman482 |
Thanks for the info guys. The reason I'm thinking about getting a new rotor are the spots that have developed on my rotor. They're visible in the pictures. They look like high spots or heat spots. they didn't come out the last time I tried to clean the rotor. Have any of you had experience with the 9262 - Ferodo Sintered Pads offered by American Sport Bike? | ||
| Marinus |
THe pictures of your rotor look just like my rotor; a bunch of little shiny spots (approx. 7mm diameter, irregular edges). This is with stock pads, and ~5500 miles. I ordered the EBR slotted 5mm rotor and mounting kit, and I'm planning to try the 9262 Ferodos. Can't give you feedback yet on those pads, but I look forward to hearing some. | ||
| Workman482 |
I do as well. Seeing as how those 5mm rotors are being used on the 1190RS bikes and they're a good bit cheaper than the 6mm offered by American Sport Bike I think I'll go with that rotor. Now for the noob question of the day. Which would be better for my ride style, sintered or non-sintered pads and what is the difference? Also has anyone heard/had experience with these pads: http://www.amazon.com/2008-2010-Buell-1125R-Kevlar -Carbon/dp/B00CQBYB2O/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=13721 68760&sr=8-6&keywords=buell+1125r I know in the caged world organic pads cause more dust but also less wear on the rotor. The big trade off however is heat. They don't perform as well when heated compared to a ceramic pad. By the way, most of my braking on the street is done by down shifting and I only use the brakes if I have to come to a complete stops. Unless I have to emergency brake of course. |
