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Websii
| Posted on Saturday, June 22, 2013 - 11:03 pm: |
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I'm getting ready to replace my stator and rotor (and possibly VR). Is there anyone in northeast Ohio that has done the swap and wants to stand around and drink beer while I swap mine out? The only requirement is the ability to say "Hey bonehead! Don't do it like that, do it this way. " should the appropriate occasion arise. I'll even provide the beer. |
Natc
| Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2013 - 01:08 am: |
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Two links to just follow the basics. As a fellow bonehead I've made plenty of mistakes that I can advise you on here and now. 1. Get a DeWalt impact wrench and use it... They have a model with max torque of 300 ft lbs. Disregard crankshaft locking tool. Get the 32MM socket (likely 1/2 inch drive, not 3/4 for the impact wrench). 2. Don't worry about the stator wires and using mech wire to pull new stator wires back up. Just buy the Rick's Motorsport stator and it'll come with a nice heat wrap. 3. Get the service manual and make sure you have all appropriate loctites and assorted juices (silicone for stator wires, Artic 5 thermal paste for VR). 4. Use a way to separate all nuts and bolts and label them. You're gonna have plenty of stuff torn down and you'll what to know what is what. 5. Before installing the new VR drop the undertail and dremel the plastics that prevent you from accessing the VR easily. 6. Dremel off that metal tab next to the VR. 7 Make sure to chip all red (217 I think?) loctite out of the rotor before trying to remove it. Safety glasses and a small pick are the most advisable items to achieve this with limited frustration and injury. 8. The only thing you should need to remove to pull the case off with the stator inside it is remove that oil line off the radiator. 9. Go to roadstercycle.com and buy from him. He's a great resource on the VR and his videos are very helpful. Good prices to. 10. Don't feel crazy if Hildstrom or Baf's stuff looks too technical in places. It is. Just go for the basics and apply those. 11. Check your inbox. Presents. http://hildstrom.com/projects/buellregulator/index .html http://projects.baf.cc/pdf/motorcycle/1125charging system.pdf |
1125cr
| Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2013 - 09:37 am: |
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I live about 30 miles south of Youngstown, have done the swap, and also have the crank locking tool if you need some help. |
Websii
| Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2013 - 07:36 pm: |
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Awesome, thanks guys. I already have the locking tool, gasket, and new nut. Now I just need to start pulling it apart so I can send the cores in to Ricks and EBR. I THINK I'm ready, so off to reread the service manual one more time, then jump in. |
Websii
| Posted on Monday, June 24, 2013 - 01:38 pm: |
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Am I getting the right Loctite? Loctite 272 -$46/50ml bottle Loctite 648 -$20/10ml bottle That seems nuts! I've only ever grabbed the red and blue at Napa before. That stuff was never more than a few bucks a tube. |
Baf
| Posted on Tuesday, June 25, 2013 - 06:14 pm: |
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Get Permatex 27200... same stuff, same company, different name. The Permatex comes in smaller quantities; you don't need anywhere near 50 mL of the stuff. |
Websii
| Posted on Thursday, July 04, 2013 - 07:36 am: |
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Ok, I'm a bonehead. I bought spray silicone lubricant to help the wires slide through the frame up to the VR, not silicone to protect the wires inside of the engine case. What type of silicone should I purchase for protecting the harness inside the engine case? |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Thursday, July 04, 2013 - 10:37 am: |
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I don't have experience with the 1125, but personally, less is probably more with regards to the wiring inside the case. I would make sure there are no chafe points (bend or file smooth any edges), make sure nothing is taught or creased, and make sure I was using good quality wire with good quality insulation (hopefully what you get with the stator). But I wouldn't go putting extra goo in there... It would probably be fine, but it might obstruct oil circulation, or come loose and go floating around and cause something even worse. I bought a dead KLR-250 for parts to fix, well, a dead KLR-250 I murdered. When I took the engine apart, the poor sump screen was completely crushed and collapsed. It had been plugged with all sorts of pieces of RTV that had pulled free from other various repairs. It could easily have killed the motor. |
Websii
| Posted on Thursday, July 04, 2013 - 11:33 am: |
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Huh. The manuals and guides I have seen all advise to use silicone to protect the stator wires from rubbing against the sharp edges of the inside of the cover. I'll have to think that one over to see which way I'll proceed. Two more questions: The bolt for the stator cover with the copper washer was in the wrong location. I take this to mean that the stator has already gone once. What could have happened from the bolt being put back in the wrong spot? Also, I did not for see needing threaded rod to use as guides as I remove the stator cover. What am I risking by removing the cover without them? |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Thursday, July 04, 2013 - 12:28 pm: |
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If an authoratitive source recommends it, take their advice over mine. If "somebody on the internet" said to do it, they are as credible as me saying not to do it, which would be a tie, except my advice would be better because my suggestion is cheaper and simpler. |
Levor
| Posted on Saturday, July 06, 2013 - 06:39 pm: |
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I would not rely on max torque ratings of any driven tool. They are not precise tests by an independent source and often rate weaker on actual testing than advertised. You also lose a good bit of torque when you use extensions and sockets. Always use a calibrated, quality torque wrench! |
Dennis_c
| Posted on Tuesday, July 23, 2013 - 09:33 pm: |
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some of thoes loctites are for more heat and oil resistance. The one for the large nut crank shaft takes one # a small nut takes another # of the same type of loctite. I went through that not to long ago I would have a second person for torqueing the nut to 295 ft. lbs. to help hold the scoket on the nut. |
Websii
| Posted on Wednesday, July 24, 2013 - 10:16 pm: |
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Thanks guys! I found out that the service department at work has a "torque multiplier", and they let me borrow it for the weekend. That worked well, my stator came back from Ricks yesterday, and I tested it just to be sure everything is good before installing it. I got a reading of 0 ohms between all leads, so I called ricks, and am waiting to hear back from them before I continue the installation. I'm still trying to determine what type of RTV or silicone to use for bedding the stator wires into the cover by the ribs, but hildstrom gave me a possible solution if I can find it. Thanks for all the input! |
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