| Author |
Message |
    
Jdugger
| | Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2013 - 07:35 pm: | 
|
I've NEVER seen that on an '08. Makes me think you got an 09 swingarm finished in 08 color... |
D_adams
| | Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2013 - 08:01 pm: |
|
+1 on the never having seen that on an 08. Mine was produced the same month and did not have the bosses there. It wasn't introduced until 09.
Jim, when you gonna post pics of your B-bike? |
Cherry_bomb
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2013 - 01:01 am: |
|
i've got this solution for the spools:
http://www.freespirits.it/en/component/virtuemart/ b/accessories-buell/paddock-stand-bobbins-for-buel l-1125-modelsdet.html?Itemid=0
maybe you can get it from another dealer. you need to drill a hole into the swingarm at the designated points (there a two reinforced drilling points inside the 08 swingarms...
for your first track day in general: as jdugger said:
- a good set of tires
- have fun
everything else you'll find out later. |
Sir_wadsalot
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2013 - 08:21 am: |
|
My bike has a build date of 2007, and no spool threads. I'm guessing that (assuming Johndb's bike is stock and all) the 2007 and early 2008 built bikes had no spools, and the mid/late year 2008 bikes went to the 2009 swingarm design.
Looking at the T-Rex 1125/Vmax rear stand, I only see one rubber pad, instead of two like the Pitbull. I'll try to find someone who has one but if it doesn't have one below and one behind, I don't trust that at all.
Those drill in spools look sharp, but for roughly $75 bucks and I have to drill into the swingarm, I could just get the mid-grade rear stand, which I need anyhow. My old one's a screaming POS.
By the way, I've been upping the speeds and manhandling the brakes, I can feel the difference in bite on a hard grab, and the pulsing goes away.....tire & new pads on order.
Was playing with throttle blipping this weekend, but it didn't translate to smoothness for my pillion so it was politely requested that I save experimentation for one up time!  |
Jdugger
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2013 - 09:50 am: |
|
> Jim, when you gonna post pics of your B-bike?
One dirty picture:
The new pipe really woke this bike up! I was within .1 second of my personal best on my Orange DSB-Spec bike this weekend at Cresson! What a difference in the motor!
The top-end is a bit blatty when really wrung out, and the engine braking more than I'm used to, but those are just things I need to sort out in the ECM. Weight and power difference with the Keda RT-3 vs. stock very noticeable. |
Sir_wadsalot
| | Posted on Thursday, June 27, 2013 - 01:37 pm: |
|
Tightened up my throttle and OMG, like a whole different bike! I don't think my throttle was even opening completely.
Also, haven't even sanded the rotor yet, just been heating the rotor with hard braking and floated the rear yesterday, nice & smooth. Surprised me!
Damn you're good. |
D_adams
| | Posted on Thursday, June 27, 2013 - 03:22 pm: |
|
quote: I was within .1 second of my personal best on my Orange DSB-Spec bike this weekend at Cresson!
And this is just from an exhaust/ecm change? Without bodywork? |
Jdugger
| | Posted on Thursday, June 27, 2013 - 03:37 pm: |
|
> And this is just from an exhaust/ecm change?
The pep from the motor, for sure. It woke that bike up!
The bodywork on the B-Bike is no more than a belly pan so it's race-spec. Otherwise, totally OEM fans, shrouds, etc. I need a bigger fuel vent catch -- it gently perfumes me on right handers presently...
Other changes include better forks, race rubber instead of sport rubber, our first really hot weekend of the season, and finally getting that bike really dialed in like it needs to be.
But make no mistake, it's making more power, and it weighs less. |
Sir_wadsalot
| | Posted on Friday, June 28, 2013 - 07:13 am: |
|
Given the aerodynamics of the original design, I wouldn't think "bodywork" would make a huge diference, unless you got narrower bars and used a smaller fairing stay up top to cut down on frontal area. Theoretically, it looks like as long as you have that stock nose profile you're gonna have the same drag characteristics.
Of course it looks badass & offers crash protection, and every tenth counts when you're racin'.
Aside from the bodywork, and controls, how modded is the DSB bike?
(Message edited by sir_wadsalot on June 28, 2013) |
Jdugger
| | Posted on Friday, June 28, 2013 - 07:50 am: |
|
The Flexi-glass bodywork makes a big difference in weight and cooling. You get ride of the fans, shrouds and all of that active cooling stuff in favor of a complete passive system that works vastly better at pace.
The front end is the same, and it punches a hole the size of a semi in the air. I notice it at TWS where the bike with nearly stock gearing won't pull past 5th gear -- there's a LOT of air being pushed around up there.
My DSB-bike is modified very heavily in almost every area. Other than the original '08 gas tank/frame, I'm not sure anything about it is stock.
One of these days I should make some videos that tour around that bike. It's as light as a 600 ready-to-race. I've done every ridiculous think you could think of to that bike, and then some. At this point, I'm sometimes doing things just because I can, not necessarily because they are better.
But you should see wheel changes! Rear is less than 1 minute *easily*, and front I've got down to about 3, with safety wire! |
Bartone
| | Posted on Friday, June 28, 2013 - 08:26 pm: |
|
jdugger, where did you get that belly pan from? any clearance issues with the rt3?
(Message edited by bartone on June 28, 2013) |
D_adams
| | Posted on Friday, June 28, 2013 - 08:35 pm: |
|
http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/models/1125r/ 1125-belly-pan-for-oe-muffler.html
The RT-3 should fit pretty much any pan out there. |
Sir_wadsalot
| | Posted on Friday, June 28, 2013 - 10:58 pm: |
|
Wait, there's no fans in that sexy bodywork? I guess it doesn't matter on the race bike, not much idling? |
Easy_rider
| | Posted on Saturday, July 20, 2013 - 02:49 pm: |
|
Not a big issue, but something to consider:
Taping up the lights can (apparently) lead to overheating/failure of the bulbs. There's a fuse for lights, but pulling it prevents the starter from engaging. Looking at the schematic, one leg from the lights relay goes to the lights, the other leg to the starter. I'm 99% sure you could buy a relay for race day, clip the lights leg, and have a starter AND no lights. I haven't tried it yet, but the relay is $5 at American Sport Bike.
I think I came across a relay in box earlier this week. I may have to go try it to nail this down. |
Zac4mac
| | Posted on Saturday, July 20, 2013 - 10:22 pm: |
|
Wouldn't it be easier to just unplug the lights under the fairing?
Also a good thing to do if your stator dies and you want to make it home.
Z |
Easy_rider
| | Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 06:15 pm: |
|
It wouldn't be easier IMHO. The pillion is off anyway to disconnect lights. My seat has two quick disconnect pins. The fairing does only have 4(?) screws to take out once the mirrors are removed but I'd rather pop a cover and swap a relay. Just an option. |
Zac4mac
| | Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 10:39 pm: |
|
I haven't tried it yet, so thanks for that info Dris.
OT are you still in Austin or did you go back to Holland?
Zack |
|
