| Author | Message | ||
     Milt |
Suddenly, I can't shift gears at all. I can squeeze enough so that I can get the motor started (although the bike wants to move). There is a little bubble at the top of clutch fluid reservoir, which doesn't look alarming to me. Should it be? When I squeeze the clutch, I can hear air escaping from someplace around the clutch cover. Is this normal or indicative of some real bad juju? I wanted to ask some knowledgeable folks what they thought before I start messing things up more. | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Check fluid level in the clutch master, and bleed. Probably needs this replaced: http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/models/1125r/ ebr-clutch-actuator-cylinder-kit.html | ||
| Milt |
I have had a little weeping. I've noticed no deterioration in clutch effectiveness (except that it stopped working). However, last time I rode it, I thought the bike sounded kind of funny. Hmm. By the way, is above kit complete - like do I need any other gaskets, do-hickeys or whatnots? (Message edited by milt on June 11, 2013) | ||
| Stevenfrye |
speaking of clutches i fell mine isnt letting go all the way? | ||
| General_tso |
I helped another badwebber temporarily solve this same problem by bleeding his clutch. I say temporarily because he was experiencing clutch weep so it would only be a matter of time before he will experience the same problem if he doesn't have the clutch actuator repaired. I'm not 100% certain but If you have the 1st design iteration clutch actuator you will need to replace the clutch cover if you want to install the EBR Kit. The 1st design is smaller in diameter than the 2nd design with the 2nd design being the one the EBR kit fits. I have an 09 which had the smaller dia cover that was replaced under Warranty by HD after it started to weep. If you have the 2nd design cover and you want to replace the actuator yourself you will need to purchase the clutch release tool from EBR or borrow one from a Badwebber that is willing to share. | ||
| Milt |
I bled my clutch and I can now shift gears. Now all I need to do is figure out what design I have now. | ||
| Stevenfrye |
so how do i tell what one i have, i need to replace the old one anyway previous own layed it down. | ||
| Smoke |
2 kinds of black pucks on the cover. old style plastic that fits into the dome opening and new style metal that fits over the dome. new style is also much bigger. tim | ||
| 99buellx1 |
New clutch cover not needed. I replaced mine on the old style, works just fine. Also, don't need that special tool, a 19mm offset wrench and an allen wrench work just as well. | ||
| Stevenfrye |
Ok cool | ||
| Milt |
EBR confirms 99BuellX1's assertion re: clutch cover.
| ||
| Deanh8 |
My clutch has always felt weird, but it is also the only hydraulic clutch I have ever had. Not sure how it is supposed to feel. Seems as there is not a lot of lever travel. Letting the lever out, as soon as the clutch grabs the lever is all the way out. Dont really notice any slipping or dragging but again still getting used to the bike. Maybe the clutch is toast with 20k+ miles? (Message edited by deanh8 on June 13, 2013) | ||
| Kevmean |
They are like that from new where the lever has to be virtually all the way out to get to the bite point ...... the Oberon slave does improve this slightly. | ||
| Milt |
I remember seeing a great writeup on BadWeb about replacing your clutch actuator. I just spent about 30 minutes looking for it. Can anyone point me to it? | ||
| Nobuell |
Milt Check out the movie. It is very easy. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NCEetGIc9ks | ||
| Milt |
So, now I'm starting to feel really helpless. I can't see the video with Real Player or QuickTime. Maybe it's just too early in the morning for this grouchy old man. | ||
| Milt |
I downloaded VLC, and it plays the video. Is the sound really garbled at about 1:30? | ||
| Froggy |
It in YouTube, it should play in your browser. | ||
| Milt |
Beautiful. Thanks, Froggy. 30 years writing software, and still have problems working computers. Go figure. | ||
| Milt |
Some questions, now that my bike has been reduced to a leaky pile of parts: 1) How the heck do you get the darn circlip out? Circlips pliers seem to be good at squeezing the ends together, but that doesn't get the thing out! 2) Do I need to replace the banjo washers from the clutch line? | ||
| Milt |
Finally got the cir-clip out. I found it harder to remove the actuator assembly than the mechanic in the video did. This is why:  The clutch cover is scored similarly near the bleeder port. I don't have a picture, because I had to put the cover back on: I broke the oil seal (like the video) and the only way I could stop the hemorrhage was to put the cover back on. Think I need a new cover, too? | ||
| Milt |
And while I'm playing show and tell, I noticed that the spherical bolt is discolored. It doesn't appear to be scored or pitted - it's touch smooth. Anything to worry about ?  | ||
| Bobdelair02 |
Hi Milt! Same thing I noticed when I replaced the clutch slave actuator. After some swearing, I lightly sanded the scratches inside the bore of the cover to get rid of the sharp edges, and kept my fingers crossed when I pushed the new actuator (Oberon) back in, hoping the O-rings would survive the scratches and luckily they did  My bolt by the way looked similar. | ||
| Zac4mac |
That nut has to deal with a bit of movement. The hemi shape keeps it centered... looks normal. Make sure the o-ring isn't shredded.. yours look great. There are 3 good fixes for the weep... H-D has a kit X2086.1AM, EBR has one with a similar number and Oberon has a kit. Any of the three are a good choice and work in "all years" clutch covers. Make SURE the tab/slot match, whichever kit you choose. Zack | ||
| Milt |
I asked EBR about it, and they advised me to replace the clutch cover. Probably a good call, because it looks even nastier than the actuator cylinder.
I took EBR's advice and bought the cover from Hal's, who had it in stock. We'll see what happens when I get an opportunity to complete the job. BTW, I need advice on the proper snap-ring pliers to use on that monster snap-ring. I have had no luck with adjustable pliers. | ||
| Milt |
Finally found some time to do the repair. The video that NoBuell and Froggy posted made sense of the correct but graceless prose of shop manual. I found that once I got the cylinder lined up correctly, I was able to push it into the cover with my thumbs. Patience, patience, patience. Thanks, everyone. |
