| Author | Message | ||
     Parsonsshane |
I finally got everything I needed to swap out the stator and the rotor. EBR rotor of course and a rewound stator via ricks motor sports. Stayed with stock VR and getting low 40's for voltage out of the stator. Reassembled everything and started with the HD harness removed. At idle the voltage starts to slowly build, took it around the block and my voltage started dropping. Never got past 13v. Hooked the HD harness back up, same issue except now while cruising it seems to stay between 12.4-12.5v. Anyone help? (Message edited by Parsons.shane on June 09, 2013) (Message edited by Parsons.shane on June 09, 2013) | ||
| Sparky |
You may not actually have a problem. The low volts you saw could have been the charging system trying to charge the battery and run the fans. The fact that it did charge albeit slowly means something good is happening. Maybe you just need to ride the bike further and see how it plays out? The other test on the stator is to do a resistance check on each of the 3 stator wires with the engine off and the meter ground lead on the engine or battery negative post looking for infinity ohms. Anything less than infinity is likely a failure. IF the stator checks OK at this point with passing AC volts OK and the infinity tests, it almost seems like there might be an open or intermittent connection on one wire between the stator and VR essentially turning the 3 phase alternator into a 1 phase charging circuit hence the low charging voltage upon running. Also I would definitely remove the HD harness/relay because it's purpose is to cripple the charging system into under-charging to prevent the stator from overheating. The EBR rotor mod is the smart elegant way to meet & solve the stator problem. The HD beancounter's fix is not so smart or elegant. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Take this with a grain of salt, I know a lot about electrics, but don't have any experience with an 1125. I'd recommend removing the charging harness as well. It was a kludge. The stator hole is the solution. It does sound like a VR or connection problem. At moderate RPM's, even with all the fans running, you should be seeing above 13 volts on the battery, even if it was discharged. The slight climb at idle might have just been the battery recovering from a big drop from starting the bike. It might not have been actually charging. | ||
| Parsonsshane |
Is there any known way to check the VR without just flat out replacing it? I didn't see anything for tests in the service manual. The stator checks out good, both for amperage and shorted coils. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Not that I know of. Not easily anyway. You would need a 60 volt moderate current AC power source to do so. Hmm. Maybe you could do it with a 18v current limited DC source... | ||
| Parsonsshane |
To much work. Update: Removed the battery, loaded tested with passing results. Threw it on a charger for a night and reinstalled the next day. Got ready to ride it, starting battery voltage was 12.0. After idling for about 2 minutes the voltage jumped up to 13.0. Took it out a bit and kept an eye on thevoltage, got up to 14.5. Once it reached that point it started dropping rapidly. Got all the way down to 12.2 when my MIL and battery light came on along with the "system voltage" warning on the cluster. I turned around and on the way back the voltage started climbing to 12.5. From there it varied between 12.2-12.5. I tried both with and without the HD harness installed and the voltage stayed the same. Any advice? Most VR failures I have read about result in over charging, not in under charging so I am hesitant to drop money on a new one just yet. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I don't have a lot of hard data, but I believe under charging VR failures are not unusual. It's a shunt regulator, so if it fails "closed" it would result in under charging. And probably get hot. | ||
| Reepicheep |
(and a connection problem with a good VR could do the same thing. As could a bad battery. As could a failing stator. Not much help unfortunately). | ||
| Parsonsshane |
Well I know the battery and stator are good. Guess ill just order a freaking VR and keep my fingers crossed. Tell ya what though, I have only had this bike about a month now and I am already contemplating getting rid of it. Great bike when it works, but when it fails you might as well be pulling teeth to get parts and diagnostic help. | ||
| Parsonsshane |
Is this the only source for the CB VRs? http://roadstercycle.com/Roadstercycle%20New%20Ser ies%20Regulators.htm Will I be needing anything else or does the kit include everything? | ||
| Parsonsshane |
Replaced the Voltage regulator with a cb605. First ride: Starting voltage was 12.1, idling I got up to 12.3 and started back down. Riding: Voltage increased good, got up to 13 by the first stop sign. Started cruising at 45mph in 5th gear (apx 3500rpm) and watch the voltage get up to 14.2 and suddenly start dropping quickly down to 12.1-12.2 when the system voltage warning came on. Turned around and rode home. Probably only 2 miles or so, never went higher nor lower than that. WTF is going on? Stator is still putting out 40+ a/c volts, got the ebr rotor helping to keep it alive, the new regulator to keep things cool (mounted under tail section), HD hardness removed, battery was load tested good and has been on a trickle charger during repairs. Could this be the case of a mis-tested battery or there a relay I might want to look at? Im running out of things to replace here.... | ||
| Parsonsshane |
If anyone is still following along: Replaced the battery today. Still no luck. 12.2-12.3 at idle. Riding out I climbed more steadily into the 14s and topped out at 14.4 until I came onto a stop sign. After stopping the voltage started decreasing until it hit the usual 12.2-12.3 mark. Only difference is now I can hold the 12.3volts when cruising at 3500rpm. Once I stop though the volts drop. Each time I had to I saw the volts go down to 12-12.1 when the battery light came on. I tried pulling over, shutting off the bike for a few minutes and continuing on to see if I would get the voltage spike again but didn't see anything over 12.3. Planning to let the bike cool down and try for the spike again. Ive officially replaced everything from the stator to the battery now.... Ill be contacting Roadstercylce tonight to see if I possibly have a DOA VR. Other than that I am not sure where to go from here. | ||
| Cpd438 |
In the same boat here. New stator (custom rewind), EBR rotor mod, MOSFET regulator, relay bypassed. Stator tests at 50+ volts at elevated RPM. System charges until 2nd fan kicks on then it won't keep up. Got down to 11.7 volts today before I made it home. Possibly a bad fan drawing too much power?? Help! | ||
| Parsonsshane |
Sorry to hear you're in the same boat. Its a •••••• feeling. Here's what I got from Jack from roadcycle. You may be able to apply it in order to check your VR. -------------------------- This is an internal diode check for a CE 605 SB regulator. These number are from a new unit off the shelf. R/R check, CE 605 SB Meter set to Diode check R/R removed or disconnected from motorcycle wiring. Positive R/R terminal hooked to Positive meter terminal. Should get 0 resistance or no reading on all 3 stator wires coming out of R/R. Positive R/R terminal hooked to Negative meter terminal. Should get something close 1650. I got 1666, 1641, 1668. on the 3 stator wires coming out of R/R (If you get a 0 here that's a problem) Negative R/R terminal hooked to Negative meter terminal. Should get 0 resistance or no reading on all 3 stator wires coming out of R/R. Negative R/R terminal hooked to Positive meter terminal. Should get something close to 480. I got 485, 483, 493, on the 3 stator wires coming out of R/R. (If you get a 0 here that's a problem) | ||
| Sparky |
0 (ohms) resistance would be a short; no reading would be infinite ohms - it can't be either to be a valid test. It's going to be one or the other or something in between. What is it supposed to say or am I reading into it wrong? | ||
| Parsonsshane |
Most dvoms will read OL, or show no reading. I thought the same thing when I first read it. | ||
| Bartone |
I've came into the same situation about a month ago. Bike would start up fine after a fresh charge, but as I rode, voltages would vary from 12~14 ish volts as long as I kept the RPMS high enough. When I came to a stop, the voltages dropped, battery light came on. As I started moving again, light went away and repeat. I found out it was a loose/bad connection from my stator to the VR. One of the wires came loose. It was a easy fix for me. The issue you may have is your stator may only be charging on two legs which isnt enough for our bikes. Check the stator with a voltmeter as per manual. | ||
| Parsonsshane |
Already done so. All legs are putting out in the range of 45 volts a/c. That's at the connector. Didn't think to look to much at the connection, just rechecked and all the terminals are fully seated in the connector. The VR checked out according to Jack. My numbers were different but he mentioned the variation due to ambient temperature. He did offer to have it shipped back to him so he could test it out on his bike but due to my install it would require cutting all the wires again, so ill save that for next week or so if I still have no results. | ||
| Cpd438 |
Spoke with Jack last night and he said something interesting. When I sent my Stator to Custom Rewind I did not tell Gary I was upgrading the charging system with EBR modded rotor and Jack's VR. He believes Gary may have rewound it to generate less heat so it would last longer due to not knowing of the upgrades. My Fault Completely for not telling Gary what was going on. Will call Gary on Monday to see if this is plausible and see if he can rewind it for more power (Watts?) Thoughts? For clarification I am using the Super Mosfet kit FH020AA. I did not catch the first time around that you were using the other R/R. (Message edited by cpd438 on June 29, 2013) | ||
| Parsonsshane |
Where do you send your stator for a rewind? I went through Ricks Motorsports, which I know require you to change out the rotor for their warranty to be valid. Either way, without knowing a whole lot about your regulator or mine for that matter, I would imagine if they were getting the correct voltage out of the stator everything should charge normally. So basically as long as your stator is still putting out the 45ish volts regardless of engine temperature, the material used to wind the stator is irrelevant when it comes to our situation, right? | ||
| Cpd438 |
As I understand it: More winds = more amps. Amps x volts= watts... And when our fans kick on.... There just aren't enough watts. | ||
| Parsonsshane |
By that logic than my issue would be the stator was not wound properly or the rotor isn't properly designed/spinning correctly. That's what the stator check verified I believe. Seeing the proper a/c voltage proves that part of the system is good. My only thought is the VR has to be a DOA. There aren't any other possibilities that make any logical sense. | ||
| Cpd438 |
Gary at custom rewind did the work. But because I didn't give the correct info, he wound it to produce less heat. It was wound properly for maximum life. Unfortunately, because of the fans on our bikes I need maximum amps which will create more heat. Your guy may have done the same. With regard to the stator check, it only measures volts. A car battery and 12 AA batteries will both read 14.4 volts, but you can't start your car with AA batteries because of Amps. As I understand it the only way to measure amps is to put the system under load. Bottom line is it sounds like we both need more winds. I'll be tearing mine apart tomorrow to send back to Gary to have it wound for maximum power since we no longer have a heat issue. | ||
| Xtreme6669 |
Make sure your grounds are good... Esp at the back of the frame. | ||
| Bextreme04 |
+1 on grounds... judging by the fact your voltage fluctuates by such a large margin It makes me think you have a loose/bad connection somewhere. This could be either a ground or power wire. I replaced my burned stator with a ricks rewind and EBR rotor about 3,000 miles ago and have a solid 14V all the time. Even at idle. I also replaced the VR with an FH0012AA mosfet unit and removed the harness relay. | ||
| Parsonsshane |
I gave up. Traded it in for a '13 Ducati Monster 1100evo and haven't looked back. So far sale I have a crank locking tool, red rear seat cover, and K&N oil filter. Real cheap for anyone who wants them. Also, free stock exhaust, just pay shipping or pick her up (CO) | ||
| Bubba_ |
pm sent | ||
| Parsonsshane |
Can't ever get my pm to work. Feel free to contact me by email. Parsons.shane@live.com | ||
| Sparky |
"Can't ever get my pm to work" Why not? It will be the same email address you used when you signed up with Badweatherbikers.com, No? If it's the same one that you posted above, then that's where you find your PMs. | ||
| Froggy |
Because Microsoft has an overzealous spam filter and deletes them. Anyone with Hotmail/MSN/Live/Outlook or the dozen of other Microsoft email domains will have issues getting the PMs as they are likely to be deleted without even going to the spambox. Unfortunately the only fix is to use another email provider. | ||
| Bubba_ |
i'm thinking i'll have to have the crank locking tool eventually - or inevitably (i'm correct that it's used to replace stock stator rotor - right?) of course, 'real cheap' always gets my attention. since ima poor boy. then i was thinking... maybe i could convert the seat cover into a compartment or bag attachment like someone here did i'll need an oil filter i use a stock exhaust so, i duuno.. what would you take for all? the crank locking tool i'd like for sure.. i'm just poor (looking for a 2nd job tho.. so there's that)  | ||
| Parsonsshane |
Hey just say your post. Didn't realize you wanted all of it by your email. I can throw in the cover for say $10 on top of the price I emailed you. Shipping the stock exhaust out there will be pricey, if you still want it ill check and the shipping price. | ||
| Bubba_ |
email sent  | ||
| Cpd438 |
Update: Got my stator back from Custom Rewind. It clearly has more winds on it now. Dropped it in and with both fans running I never drop below 14.0 volts. Custom Rewind redid the work for free even though it was my fault for not giving them the new specs. I cannot speak highly enough of them! |
