| Author | Message | ||
     Zoolander |
Today I wired up my new VR, the CE605 model. Thanks to all the help on the forum, I found it not as intimidating as I thought...of course, that's not knowing if I did it right! I spoke with Fastphil and he mounted his by the oil cooler. I originally thought I was going to put it there too but the more I looked at it, the more I thought it was tricky to bolt it there due to the tight clearances of the mounting bolts...that and routing the wires back to the power. It's a great place to put it but I chose to put it elsewhere where I thought it was easier and quicker to bolt up. I took off the passenger peg mounting bracket and used the bolt holes to install to simple L brackets: peg brackets off:  my homemade brackets installed:  VR installed on brackets:  The part I'm really kind of nervous about is the wiring. I've read Yugi's awesome write-up on how to make the connectors. I ordered all of the parts even. But then I just wound up cutting the connectors from the OEM VR and using those. I soldered the connectors to the power(meaning to the existing wires which presumably are appropriately fused/I did not connect directly to the battery) and used butt connectors for the stator wires. This position of the VR did not require any length to be added - as it would have in the oil cooler mounted position - since there is a generous wire length from the VR.  Due to (many)time constraints, I have not had a chance to fire the bike up (and possibly see it explode yet). I did check it for continuity and it has that at least. Now before I take it for a ride, can anyone please tell me if I missed something here before I set off a bomb under my butt? I'm not too concerned about feeling any heat fromt he VR while riding or at stops:   I'm hoping it will be in the airway enough to help cool it, I think it will be. Again, if anyone can point out a serious flaw in the way I hooked it up, I'd really appreciate it! | ||
| Oldog |
I had a similar idea ( still have passenger rest mounts to attach the regulator to ( facing in ) looks like a good job I will be interested in how well it works.. | ||
| Sparky |
If that is going to be a permanent mounting place, I'd put a third strut to one of the bottom VR bolts to, in effect, triangulate the mounting which would hopefully minimize any chances of the two angle brackets cracking from vibration. Is there any way of reinstalling the passenger pegs with the VR in that location or maybe using the passenger pegs as mounting parts? Looking forward to see how it works. | ||
| Jumpinjewels |
Nice. My hubby put my new regulator by the oil cooler and it looks nice there. I took the bike out for a ride yesterday and had my heated vest and heated grips on and the voltage didn't go below 12.7. I was hoping it would be better. Without the grips on the voltage was back up around 13.1. Just waiting for a bonus in my next paycheck and the stator from EBR is my next purchase. Will post pics later. | ||
| Jumpinjewels |
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| Zac4mac |
Good to see you going this route Julie. Dan does good work too, hope this makes your baby as reliable as Loretta. Z | ||
| Finedaddy1 |
Jumpinjewels--I like the mounting location, looks at home there. | ||
| Jumpinjewels |
That was my hubby's goal, to make it look at home. And it's a great place to get airflow, airflow, airflow. LOL | ||
| Hildstrom |
Zoolander: Nice mount. For those of you wanting to retain the passenger foot pegs... With a different shaped regulator bracket and longer bolts, you could sandwich the mounting tabs between the foot peg bracket and the sub frame. The new regulator bracket could move the regulator rearward allowing full use of the foot peg. Jumpinjewels: Your mount gets good air flow while moving, but how well does that location work when you are stopped at a traffic light? Doesn't the heat coming from the oil cooler and the muffler heat it up quite a bit when you are stopped? | ||
| Zoolander |
Jumpinjewels, Where did you route the wires? | ||
| Jumpinjewels |
They were routed fairly in line with the stator wires. Basically in that same vicinity and were covered with split wire loom. | ||
| Ezblast |
Zoolanders looks like the better idea, sportbike passengers? - fer real - lol EZ | ||
| Sportster_mann |
Surely, even when stationary, its got to be in a better position than under the seat ? Heat builds up quickly under there, even when riding ... | ||
| Zoolander |
Not sure about "better" but the passenger peg mount location is definitely the more anti-social option of the two. Lol As far as heat, I think it's like splitting hairs comparing the two mount positions. Really, the engine itself is just as close so how much the VR will change the increase the heat may be negligible. Of course, I have no idea yet since I haven't ridden it yet. One way to find out! | ||
| Dannybuell |
Please tolerate my lack of knowledge. As I understand it, regulator heat is dissipated in two ways, air cooling and a special heat sink grease sandwich using the frame and regulator. The new brackets contact maybe 40% of the back heatsink surface. Has this reduced the heatsink potential of the regulator by 60%? Does the increase in airflow offset the diminished heatsink potential? | ||
| Hildstrom |
Dannybuell: "The new brackets contact maybe 40% of the back heatsink surface. Has this reduced the heatsink potential of the regulator by 60%? Does the increase in airflow offset the diminished heatsink potential?" The rear subframe can get ridiculous hot when sitting in traffic even without any additional heat from a regulator. Also, the CE-605 SB mounting face is only aluminum around the perimeter. The bulk of the mounting face is epoxy to protect and waterproof the electronics. It is designed to exchange heat with air more than whatever it is mounted to. So, I'd say it would be fine even mounted to insulating plastic as long as the fins get some air. | ||
| Sparky |
I like Jewel's mount location for great airflow, but I must advise that if the Vreg protrudes out to the left side more than the bottom half of the stator cover, there is potential for damage from a left side tipover. I am saying that because my 1125R happened to roll off the side stand on a slight downhill once and the casualty from that was a scuffed lower portion of the left pod and gouges in the lower area of the stator cover puck and the lower forward radial rib on the stator cover - all cosmetic damage. No biggie and fixable. You might want to check any possible impact area of the Vreg by placing a straightedge (a ruler?) on the stator cover puck and rotating it around to see if any fins might protrude beyond the straightedge. If so, then maybe the Vreg could hopefully be moved up a little so that it clears. | ||
| Hildstrom |
I mounted my CE-605 SB here:  It was easy and it did not interfere with anything else. The 4 zip-ties were probably sufficient, but I backed them up with some 550 parachute cord to be sure. I still need to melt the end of that 550 cord to tidy it up a bit. It got pretty hot during my 1-hour hot idle testing, but it continued to work fine. I could only touch it for 1-2 seconds, but I believe it was still at a safe operating temperature (~160F). It was only warm after my 30-mile low-speed test ride (<113F). | ||
| Oldog |
Nice Jobs All, Hildstrom I am curious 30 minutes idling ? standard electronics for industrial use are about 180F is the temperature limit | ||
| Hildstrom |
Oldog: I idled it on a rear stand in my garage for 1 full hour to test maximum current and minimum airflow, which stress tested my new regulator and rewound stator. Many electronic components can operate continuously with case temperatures of 100C/212F. There was more information in the link at the top of my previous post. | ||
| Finedaddy1 |
Hildstorm--Thanks for sharing, FWIW my Compufire unit gets warm as well, I shot it with an infrared thermometer and it was around 145°f w/fans running idling in my garage. | ||
| Timebandit |
I'd be interested in knowing how hot the unit gets in real world driving. I'm thinking that although a series reg isn't going to have much air flow/cooling at idle in the garage, the real test of it's ability to withstand heat is going to be when it's loaded down with accessories and is getting real cooling airflow. Any chance you could take your IR gun on a ride and shoot some real-world measurements after giving it some real RPM? (Message edited by timebandit on March 19, 2012) | ||
| Jsg4dfan |
While reviving my '09 CR from a track day low-side wadding (fast left, slid off the track and tumbled hard in the grass), I installed the same VR, but I put it behind the license plate on a piece of 1/8" aluminum plate. I disconnected the harness upgrade as well. I have only put about 250 miles on it so far, but that includes over an hour of brutally hot stop-and-go San Antonio traffic. Voltage never dipped below 13.2 with the fans blazing away (on low beam), and raising the rpm to as low as 2,000 brought it back up to 14.2. If and when the stator goes, I'll rewind, and mod the rotor either through EBR or with Hildstrom.com's excellent write-up. View from the back of license plate - anybody want a ZX11?  From the side  (Message edited by JSG4dFan on September 22, 2012) | ||
| Oldog |
Nice Job! | ||
| Baf |
Nice spot. I've got mine bolted to the undertray. I'll post pictures of it sometime. | ||
| Sprintst |
You guys did read this, right? These series regulators have to be in the airflow so get them out in front if you can. Don't put them under your seat or tail section they need cooling. | ||
| Baf |
Yes I read it. It gets some airflow back there, and it's the best place I could come up with for it. I've been checking on it after each ride, and it's been cool to the touch. | ||
| Redcrrider |
Is this sort of regulator really necessary on these bikes? Why not use the mosfet R\R from roadstercycles.com. It doesn't need to be in direct air flow like a series and is way better than stock. | ||
| Sparky |
The stock VR uses mosfets. | ||
| Redcrrider |
That maybe Sparky, but that doesn't make it equal to the Shindengen R/R. My stock VR burned itself up and there is no shortage of stock VR blowing out headlights. The Shindengen has a better track record based on the limited data on the internet. The Shindengen actually has a heat sink, the stocker relies solely on the subframe. The Series regulators seem to be marketed towards race bikes, which don't have anywhere near the electrical load of our bikes. Even http://roadstercycle.com/ warms not to put the series regulator under the tail section. I wonder how it will handle extended idling and stop and go traffic when air flow is zero. (Message edited by redcrrider on September 28, 2012) |
