| Author | Message | ||
     Sinnister |
Well still having electrical issues. Been on the phone with Rick at Ricks electric and we are thinking it is not my VR. My stator went out a while ago and was rewound and reinstalled. After about 3000 miles now when I start the bike as soon as I go above idle I get system voltage but it is an OVER voltage not a drain. I let it idle and as soon as it gets to operating temp and the fan kicks on the dash and headlight come back on. If I turn it off and back on it will run perfectly fine and charge perfectly fine until the bike cools off again and it will repeat. I've replaced the battery and have done 3 different VR's so it shouldn't be an issue with either of them. I pulled the stator over the weekend because I was getting a knock and had a loose rotor nut and two of the stator bolts have come loose. I put a new nut and locktighted everything and it is all back together and running perfect again except this issue is still there. Anyone have any ideas on this? Seems weird how it runs fine after the fans kick on. | ||
| 1125rcya |
Did you tighten your rotor nut to new speck? There is a new speck, I believe it in the 2010 manual.. Like 290 foot pounds. | ||
| Sinnister |
Yep. 300ft lbs actually. I'm not even worried about that because the torque spec won't help my charging issue. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Why does Rick think it's NOT the R/R? Any overvoltage is the R/R's fault... | ||
| Sinnister |
Because I have put three on there and all do the same exact thing. It ran perfectly fine for 2000 miles then just suddenly giving me this problem. He thinks I have a short somewhere since it seems to fix itself with heat. I'm not even sure where to look and I was hoping someone had some ideas since the fans seem to be what levels the voltage back out. He said if it was a VR problem it would of fixed with a new one and definitely with two different new ones and if it was blowing the VR it would at least work normally before blowing but it's not, I put in the new VR and same thing right from the start. Forgot to mention I've checked the ground by the swingarm, the one from the frame to the engine behind the left radiator, the one behind the headlight, and the one at the bottom of the engine near the oil filter and all are good and tight. | ||
| Mvaughn556 |
Would go with the CE 205 sb style R/R it seemed to solve my voltage system problem without stator or rotor upgrade.running over 2k no problems......only down now for a starter sprag clutch replacement. This will give me a opportunity to examine my rotor and stator...to see if i need the upgrade | ||
| Mvaughn556 |
http://roadstercycle.com/Roadstercycle%20New%20Ser ies%20Regulators.htm | ||
| Baf |
Why would a short cause an OVER voltage? Same with bad ground? It fixes itself when it heats up and the fans kick on... my guess is an increased electrical load drags voltage back down. I agree with Zac... R/R's fault. What voltage are you getting at the battery at idle? | ||
| Sinnister |
So the three new VR I bought were bad??? If they are blowing wouldn't it work at first then blow? The battery gets 14 when it's leveled out and when it's cold and I have system voltage it's at 18. | ||
| Baf |
I have no idea about the VR, but either the stator is good or bad. Unless you have extra windings on it, I can't think of any failure of the stator that would cause it to put out higher voltage. It's easy enough to check the stator though - check the AC output of it (with AC side of the VR unhooked). Check again after the bike is at operating temperature as well, and compare. I don't recall the exact values off the top of my head, but IIRC you should be seeing somewhere between 10 and 20 VAC at idle, and somewhere in the 40-50 range at ~5k RPM. It's possible that you got 3 bad VRs (not very likely, I'd admit, but this problem really sounds like a VR issue). It's the job of the VR to keep voltage in check, so any high voltage condition points back to a problem with the regulator portion. You could try a CE-605, but I usually don't like just throwing parts at a problem. (Message edited by baf on May 08, 2013) | ||
| Baf |
Also, system voltage says it's 18... is that the instrument panel reading? I'd verify with a multimeter at the battery, on the off chance that the ECM/cluster are wrong. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Sinnister - Been thinking about this, on and off, all day. Pretty sure you've got a bad ground making a "ground loop" that's making the R/R think 18 is 12. I know you said you checked grounds but digital comms run at high AC frequencies. Try "bonding" by using star washers between the frame, any lugs(with wires) and nut. Wire brush and/or sandpaper frame ground points. Get as much surface-area-contact as you can. A prof in an electronics class told me "if the symptoms don't make any sense, check your grounds. I think Rick is right, not the R/R but in its power circuit. hot or ground, most likely ground. Z | ||
| Dannybuell |
clean sanded surfaces with star washers sounds like good advice. | ||
| Sinnister |
Baf- I've tested my stator and its operating fine. I had to pull it when the bolts loosened and it still looks good. The voltage test was at the battery with a multimeter. The dash is frozen with overvoltage so I have no idea what it's reading but when it comes back it also states 18 as it drops back to 14 after the fans kick back on. I also hate throwing money at it which is why I haven't bought yet another VR cause I really think it's something else. Z- I'll try this. I have sanded a few of them already but I want to make sure I have all the grounds. There is the one from the engine to the frame behind the left radiator, the one behind the headlight on the frame, the one down by the shock on the frame near the swingarm, and the one at the bottom of the engine near the oil filter. Is there any more that I may be missing? |
