Author |
Message |
1125rcya
| Posted on Tuesday, April 30, 2013 - 01:31 am: |
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Well when the bike gets hot I'm having trouble shifting. I switched my brake fluid and it had tons of friction plate material in it. The new brake fluid didn't help! I bought a new clutch, plates, and springs from american sports bike. My question is there others parts that might as well be changed like the clutch nut or clutch release pin, ore any seals? Will I need any special tools? Should I use like half new springs and half old? Thanks Mike |
Jdugger
| Posted on Tuesday, April 30, 2013 - 07:49 am: |
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You had friction material in your DOT4 fluid for the clutch?!?! This would be very unusual. Are you sure? So you bought the barnett clutch pack, not the OEM one? I've used that clutch pack, and found it to work well but not last as long as OEM. Did you *measure* your clutch pack to see if it's actually the problem? The only special tool you are likely to need is an off-set box wrench, or the through-sockets or special clutch tool from EBR -- all do the same thing when it comes time to work on the spherical but or thrust washer assembly below the piston. |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Tuesday, April 30, 2013 - 08:17 am: |
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work on the spherical but I know you meant nut, morning humor... Z |
Jdugger
| Posted on Tuesday, April 30, 2013 - 09:03 am: |
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I can't shit for type in the monrings. |
1125rcya
| Posted on Tuesday, April 30, 2013 - 09:04 pm: |
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I haven't opened her up yet. Yeah when I went to change my fluid a bunch of the clutch friction material was coming out of the bleeder. It almost clogged it up, built up pressure then suddenly released and about 1/4 way through the bottle of HD brake fluid cleared it up. I'm not 100% sure it was friction material but I'm willing to bet my buddies right testicle lol. I'm only wanting to open my clutch up once, and have all parts and material to replace the ware items. Yeah I'm reaching a bit..but I have a track day in may paid for..I have to first do my valves, then rebuild my forks, then replace my steering stem bearings and last but not least open my clutch up. I'll know more once I get in there but until then im buying stuff thats normal ware items. Should I have went with different steering stem bearings, and what kinda of shims should I get? Thanks Mike |
Kruizen
| Posted on Tuesday, April 30, 2013 - 09:41 pm: |
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1125 that material is probably actually actuator material. There would have a be a major failure for there to be friction material in the clutch/brake fluid. |
Nobuell
| Posted on Tuesday, April 30, 2013 - 11:21 pm: |
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I agree. Sounds like the o-rings in the actuator are disintegrating. |
Jdugger
| Posted on Wednesday, May 01, 2013 - 07:59 am: |
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+1 on the responses. If there were friction material in the clutch hydraulic fluid the bike would be spitting oil everywhere at high revs. The DOT4 fluid used for the clutch on these bikes soils quickly, even on well maintained machines. I actually find ordinary, low-performance, "long-life" brake fluid (the $4/bottle kind at Auto Zone) to work much better for the clutch than higher performance options. Also, difficulty shifting and lurching in 1st is really more of a symptom of the clutch not properly disengaging, not necessarily wear. This is a sign of slave piston issues. Actually, clutch plates near the end of their lives shift more easily since they are thinner and it's easier to disengage them. If this were my bike, I'd order up the clutch slave kit from EBR and go ahead and install that when I got into the clutch. You are eventually going to have to do it *anyway*, might as well get 'er done while you are in there. $100 and a few hours and you are set. |
1125rcya
| Posted on Wednesday, May 01, 2013 - 09:32 am: |
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Thanks guys..guess I'll buy the ebr clutch slave kit. (clutch actuator cylinder kit) Do I really need the clutch hub locking tool or clutch hub release tool?.. Do I need to replace the clutch gasket or the clutch spherical nut? (Clutch gasket don't leak)should I automatically put a thin layer of grease on the rubber clutch gasket? Lol There's never a just one stupid question but a ton of them together You guys are awesome! Someone just make the how to video for maintenance on every thing for the 1125R and I'll buy it for 100$
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Jdugger
| Posted on Wednesday, May 01, 2013 - 09:48 am: |
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> Do I really need the clutch hub locking tool > or clutch hub release tool? The locking tool would be useful if you were rremoving the clutch basket, but I would not expect you to need it. The release tool is useful for the spherical nut. I think it's worth the money if you don't have "through" sockets. The tool you might want is a good circlip set, however. Those rings can be a real bitch without one. |
Noobuel
| Posted on Wednesday, May 01, 2013 - 08:18 pm: |
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I will second Jdugger's suggestion of a GOOD pair of of circlip pliers. I've done clutch work twice now, the first time with a cheap set of Lowe's Irwin pliers and it took forever. The second time around I spent the extra money for a real set from Grainger. |
Kruizen
| Posted on Wednesday, May 01, 2013 - 08:47 pm: |
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I found mine at fastenal. The c clip can be a MAJOR pain in the ass |
Jdugger
| Posted on Thursday, May 02, 2013 - 07:51 am: |
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It's a bit spendy, but I ordered this kit, with three different sizes and several tips. There's a few circlips around the bike, and I use them to retain the slave piston when servicing the clutch, so I find them useful. http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/2725/=mknors |
Samcol
| Posted on Thursday, May 02, 2013 - 09:04 pm: |
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probably not related to your problem but... last summer at about 15k miles my clutch blew up. there really weren't any warning signs at all. it still shifted great and everything, but i was getting on it from 2nd to 3rd (or 3rd to 4th, can't remember for sure) and it exploded out the side of the engine. it cracked both sides of the engine case. needless to say i bought a salvaged motor and am still trying to put the bike back together. |
Samcol
| Posted on Saturday, May 04, 2013 - 10:39 pm: |
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update: finally got salvaged motor in and started it. NO ERROR CODES!!!!! the motor only had about 2k miles on it. took a test drive and the bike rode like a champ. such an amazing bike, it scared me again for once. somehow this motor feels more powerful or it's just my imagination after riding a 2001 r1 for 6 months. i got the motor from Pinwall Cycle Parts on ebay for 900 bucks fyi. they had a youtube video of the motor running on the wrecked bike before they pulled it. couldn't be happier. |
1125rcya
| Posted on Sunday, May 19, 2013 - 01:33 pm: |
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Haha while checking my valve clearance, I found that my braided clutch line has been severely scorched by laying on my exhaust header. I wonder if that would cause a shifting issue when it gets hot? |
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