Author |
Message |
Victorspecial
| Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2013 - 02:25 pm: |
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My battery checks at 12.3v with a voltmeter but system diag says 10.5. Neg battery cable is 0 ohms to ground. No short to ground on pos side. The battery is less than a year old and always on a tender. I got a U0001 code as well but with 10.5v you would expect that. What should I be looking for? I have the elec diag manual but could use some advice. Thanks |
Victorspecial
| Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2013 - 03:13 pm: |
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A little more info. Battery load tested good. When I try to start, I only get the solenoid click and no turnover. Thanks |
Dennis_c
| Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2013 - 05:46 pm: |
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at 12.3 volts its only 50% charged try jumper cables I will bet it will work then |
Dennis_c
| Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2013 - 05:52 pm: |
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100% is 12.7 volts look on page 127 of manual |
Victorspecial
| Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2013 - 06:20 pm: |
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It was on the trickle charger all night. I guess I need to replace the battery. Again. The bike lives on a battery tender. |
Victorspecial
| Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2013 - 06:22 pm: |
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Why does the IC show only 10.5 in diagnostic mode? |
Two_seasons
| Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2013 - 07:16 pm: |
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"Why does the IC show only 10.5 in diagnostic mode?" Because when your battery is low, all kinds of weird things happen to these bikes. Check your battery post connections. They work themselves loose. They need to be very snug, not sure of torque. |
Dennis_c
| Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2013 - 07:17 pm: |
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I just checked the volts on mine both were the same. Sounds like a bad battery + good luck. I wish I could help more. |
Victorspecial
| Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2013 - 07:52 pm: |
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Thanks guys. All battery connections are good and clean. Ground is good as well. I'll pick up a battery tomorrow. |
Victorspecial
| Posted on Friday, April 12, 2013 - 03:43 pm: |
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The saga continues. Battery has 12.8v when unhooked. Drops to 12.6 when bolted in and when I turn on the key it drops to 12.1. I disassembled the ignition and all wires still firmly soldered. Took the battery to a different shop for a load test and it tested 100%. I am at a complete loss as to what to do. If I could get it started I'd take it to a shop. Can a battery load test good and still be bad? |
Brumbear
| Posted on Friday, April 12, 2013 - 04:11 pm: |
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NO SAGA battery is shyt |
Victorspecial
| Posted on Friday, April 12, 2013 - 07:08 pm: |
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The battery load tested 100% at two different shops. |
Two_seasons
| Posted on Friday, April 12, 2013 - 08:13 pm: |
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Do you have heated grips? If yes, then disconnect them and see what you get. Maybe there is a stuck relay too, pulling hard on the battery when you power up. With a multimeter, put it across the battery and turn the key (ignition) on, kill switch off. Then try it with kill switch on. What are you seeing with VDC? Much voltage drop in either case? You'd expect, with a 100% battery, that you will not see much drop. |
Victorspecial
| Posted on Friday, April 12, 2013 - 08:30 pm: |
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I can hear the relay clicking when I try to start it. No heated grips. No accessories. I did exactly what you suggest except the kill switch was on. VOM connected between battery terminals. Key off was 12.6v With the key on my VOM reads 12.1v but the volt meter in diag mode shows 10.5 That would indicate a bad cell if it was correct but a load test should indicate that. |
Steeleagle
| Posted on Friday, April 12, 2013 - 09:53 pm: |
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Easy test is to jump it. If it starts, end of saga. If not, well...keep writing! |
Nuts4mc
| Posted on Saturday, April 13, 2013 - 07:43 pm: |
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try replacing the (black)relay in the relay box ( all others are white) back by the battery/fuse box - it works with the starter solenoid/fuel pump/IC...it's the same used on a HD Vrod which acts up and the Vrod won't start - the relay is a Automotive type headlight relay - take it out and see if the autoparts guy can cross it...hope this helps |
Victorspecial
| Posted on Saturday, April 13, 2013 - 09:36 pm: |
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Yep. I pulled all of the relays one at a time and that relay, the start relay, seemed to be the culprit. The procedure in the elec manual pointed to it as well. I found one that should work at the auto parts. Harley didn't have it in stock. I'll try to put it in tonight or tomorrow morning and report the results. Thanks |
Kevmean
| Posted on Sunday, April 14, 2013 - 09:02 am: |
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Also remember that 1125's won't start if the headlights aren't working ..... a mate got caught out by that after starting bike and then pulling the headlight fuse while he was messing about checking things over at tickover and not wanting to drag battery down. He then went for a ride forgetting about the fuse, stopped at a bikers cafe and then when he went to restart nothing happened, after a lot of messing around it was only when he realised his headlights weren't on that he realised his mistake, refitted light fuse and away he went. |
Victorspecial
| Posted on Sunday, April 14, 2013 - 01:17 pm: |
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Starter solenoid. I got continuity across the connector and I don't get voltage on the other side of the solenoid when the start button is pressed. Clicks but no juice. I'll order a new one and will hopefully be riding by next weekend. |
Two_seasons
| Posted on Sunday, April 14, 2013 - 01:26 pm: |
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Check your connections at the starter. They work loose and "clicking" will be heard. |
Victorspecial
| Posted on Sunday, April 14, 2013 - 01:41 pm: |
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They are tight and there is no voltage at the starter when the start button is pressed. |
Victorspecial
| Posted on Sunday, April 14, 2013 - 01:59 pm: |
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Anyone know of a readily available replacement for the starter solenoid? Like from an auto parts store. |
Two_seasons
| Posted on Sunday, April 14, 2013 - 05:19 pm: |
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If you have zero volts at the starter switch, then you need to trace the wiring and find out where it's shorting out. Do not replace anything YET. Do you own an electrical manual, cause you need one. |
Victorspecial
| Posted on Sunday, April 14, 2013 - 06:11 pm: |
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I used the manual to determine the solenoid was bad.I have voltage at the solenoid connector when the starter button is pressed but no voltage on the other side of the solenoid. |
Victorspecial
| Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2013 - 07:09 pm: |
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Problem resolved! I replaced the starter solenoid and she runs perfectly now. No more weird display issues either. So, the solenoid I got from Harley didn't have the nuts on it so I used the ones from the old part. I got one nut seated and noticed it left the cable loose. Took it off and saw it stripped the post! Different threads on two of the same solenoids? No. I looked at the posts on the old one and they were both stripped. SAE nuts on metric posts. Either this bike came from the factory like that or a Harley mechanic did it. The bike has only 3k miles and it's hard to believe it had a solenoid fail before this one. It was a demo bike and my brother in law was the only owner before me. He doesn't work on his bikes and it never went in for that. Sheesh! I cleaned up the threads and used metric nuts and it's all good now. Time to put the EBR ecm in and have some fun. Anyone need a 09 instrument cluster? Brand new. Never powered up. |
Dannybuell
| Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2013 - 08:11 pm: |
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great job! |
Nobuell
| Posted on Sunday, April 28, 2013 - 07:39 am: |
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Victorspecial How much for the 09 cluster? |
Victorspecial
| Posted on Sunday, April 28, 2013 - 07:34 pm: |
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I paid $280 from Harley. It still has the protective plastic on the front. I will sell it for $250 shipped conus. |