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Victorspecial
Posted on Tuesday, March 26, 2013 - 03:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

While riding yesterday, I had the display on my 2008R set to monitor battery voltage. I was riding between 60 and 65 mph. The battery light caught my eye. It stayed on for a few seconds and went out. Then the tach needle dropped to zero a couple of times.

The battery voltage fluctuated between 13.3 and 14.5 volts and changes in speed didn't seem to affect this.

Is my regulator going out? I rode on another two hours with no other issues.

It has supposedly had all recalls done and since it is an 08 it shouldn't have a stator issue.

Thanks
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Kruizen
Posted on Tuesday, March 26, 2013 - 04:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have 09 bike with 08stator/rotor and I see fluxuations between 12.8-14.2 regularly.

Check your battery cables. They work themselves loose.
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Brumbear
Posted on Tuesday, March 26, 2013 - 05:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+1 loose cable or connection volt flux is normal
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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2013 - 07:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fluctuation is normal, especially (and this is doubtful on an 08, but you never know) if it has the relay harness installed. On my 09 CR I can literally "watch" the relay turn one leg of the system on and off.

I've quit watching.

It always charges back up, it always starts...so I just enjoy the ride.
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Victorspecial
Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2013 - 07:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Negative cable was slightly loose. I hope that was all it was. I just won't worry and ride.

Just waiting on the reflash from EBR and I'm all set.

Thanks
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Victorspecial
Posted on Saturday, March 30, 2013 - 08:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Went for a ride today and the bike was running like crap. Battery light came on many times with 13 to 14 volts showing. Check engine light came on several times. Speedo was going wacky. The tach needle dropped to zero a few times. The gauge lights flickering. The bike was surging badly. Worse than normal for the stock ecu. Also noticed the clutch is weeping. Sheesh.

I only have 3k miles on the bike I just purchased from my brother in law. It's a 2008.

I have a reflashed ecu coming from EBR (stock one is in the bike) but I don't think that is the cure for this.

Any advice? Sell and buy a Honda?
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Froggy
Posted on Saturday, March 30, 2013 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like a dying battery. Take it out and have it load tested.
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Pmjolly
Posted on Sunday, March 31, 2013 - 12:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The clutch is an easy fix. I just finished putting the EBR part in mine. No problem. I wouldn't let a dealer touch mine.
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Cheez2158
Posted on Sunday, March 31, 2013 - 08:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had alot of thos last apring when I bought my 08 try your ground to frame connection and check battery it is probably in those things as the 08s havent proved to have a."chargomg issue" like the 09 & 10s.
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Cataract2
Posted on Sunday, March 31, 2013 - 08:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Running issue could very well be caused by a bad battery. If the bat is original then by now it is 5 years old at least. Depending on how it was maintained it could very well be at the end of it's life. Check that first, then all connections to it.

Clutch weep is as mentioned an easy fix. If you have a service manual then all you need are the parts and you are all set.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Sunday, March 31, 2013 - 08:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Something else to consider when shutting down your 2008 1125r. Use the kill switch FIRST, then the ignition.

There is parasitic battery drain on the '08 1125r if this is not done.
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Cataract2
Posted on Sunday, March 31, 2013 - 04:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The parasitic drain was fixed with the later flashes and instrument cluster. He shouldn't have that issue assuming those are done.
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Victorspecial
Posted on Sunday, March 31, 2013 - 06:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the advice folks. I will get the battery checked tomorrow. I hope that is it.

I'll order the clutch parts too. It's not leaking much yet.

The weather is finally nice. I want to ride.
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Victorspecial
Posted on Monday, April 01, 2013 - 07:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, battery checked fine on the load test. Only had 12.4v when I hooked it up and it wouldn't start the bike. Ground cable is securely fastened. The battery is less than a year old.

I hooked an ammeter between the neg battery post and the free neg cable and the bike is drawing over 6A while off. I guess the display was never changed. 6 amps is alot of current.

Have any of you had running issues with the original defective display? Was the display a recall?
Thanks again.
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Victorspecial
Posted on Monday, April 01, 2013 - 07:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I will try to locate a connector for the cluster and see if removing it from the system eliminates the short.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Monday, April 01, 2013 - 08:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

On mine, the VehicleSpeedSensor (VSS) will occasionally go bonkers when it gets hot out and the display goes to 0 mph. Annoying is all.

When you use the kill switch does it go to 0 VDC?

No running issues with original display. Have read a couple of people have had their Tach needle come apart. A little super glue did the trick IIRC.
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Victorspecial
Posted on Tuesday, April 02, 2013 - 06:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok. I isolated the instrument cluster. When it is unhooked there is no current drain. With it there is over 8 amps of current drain.

Is this drain enough to make the bike run poorly? Is there something else I need to look for?

Thanks
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Victorspecial
Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2013 - 10:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The cluster is an 09 replaced by Harley under warranty. It has the gear indicator and voltmeter. I assume I need to replace it though. Does anyone know where to find one besides TwinCycles? They are $450 plus shipping from Holland.
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Dktechguy112
Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2013 - 11:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.latus-hd.com/

they have them for $250
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Victorspecial
Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2013 - 02:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ordered one. $280. (fingers crossed)
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Zac4mac
Posted on Friday, April 05, 2013 - 12:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

8 Amps???

While you're waiting for the IC, pull your keyswitch and check the wiring.
My 08 had the wires break at the solder joints twice, then I fixed it a third time and relieved some material from the fairing stay. May 2011.













No problems since.

Z
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Oldog
Posted on Friday, April 05, 2013 - 10:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok. I isolated the instrument cluster. When it is unhooked there is no current drain. With it there is over 8 amps of current drain.

Is this drain enough to make the bike run poorly? Is there something else I need to look for?

Thanks


Oh yes that is excessive drain, that is about the sum total run current I would expect to see. }
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Victorspecial
Posted on Friday, April 05, 2013 - 11:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks zack and oldog. Will check out the key switch too. Yep, with the probes of my multimeter between the frame and battery ground she pulls over 8 amps with the key off. Crazy! Three inst. clusters in 3k miles. Yes, only 3000 miles.
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