| Author | Message | ||
     Mortbike |
I have a 2009 1125CR with 2010 engine and EBR racing ECM. Do I need to remove the noise control servo? thanks Mort | ||
| Rodrob |
The EBR race ECM knows nothing about the intake solenoid so you don't have to remove it , however it is adding weight. I would choose to remove it. | ||
| Mortbike |
Thanks Rodrob! I just ordered the resistor plug from EBR. Any tips on the best way to remove the intake solenoid? Mort | ||
| P_squared |
Go here for the de-noid procedures: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/490767.html | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
You don't need the resistor if u have the EBR ECM, it ignores the solenoid. Just unplug it. But the charging harnes uses the same power plug as the noid, so make sure you don't remove power to the charging harness. | ||
| Noobuel |
You don't HAVE to cut the bracket down either. | ||
| Mortbike |
DKtechguy112 thanks for the advice. I am not sure what you mean by the charging harness. Are you referring to a connection to the solenoid or another charging harness, I am not that familiar with the wiring so please clarify. thanks, Mort | ||
| Zac4mac |
Mort 09-10 1125s had a recall that installed a relay and harness between the R/R and the stator output connector. The relay is powered by the "noid" connector with a piggyback going to the noid. If your R/R is connected directly to the stator, you don't have it. <edit>Since yours is an 09, perhaps a PO removed it if it's not there. Z (Message edited by zac4mac on February 15, 2013) | ||
| Mortbike |
Hi Zac- I think I have the recall harness and relay as the Vin history recall in the HD computer data system says it was done and I saw a harness that had 2010 date on it so it is likely still there and at 3,000 miles there are no obvious charging problems. The questions now are: 1)with the EBR ECM, should I even bother removing the solenoid. 2) I will be installing the EBR modified rotor and possibly a Rick's stator within the next couple weeks. If the stock stator looks good, do I need a Rick's stator? Should I remove the recall harness? Do I need to replace the stock R/R as well? Just trying to get the charging system sorted out for reliabity in advance to avoid getting stranded on the road. Thanks for your help. Mort | ||
| Rogue_biker |
THe Solenoid is dead weight so just remove it. You can use it as a paper weight to hold open the Service Manual when you are reading while working on your bike. LOL! | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
If you want to make sure your stator is good run two tests: 1. Visual inspection, if the stator has overheated to the point that it is bad the epoxy will be black and missing in sections. 2. Continuity test, the resistance between the legs should be .1-.3ohms. If it is higher then this run test 3. 3. Voltage test, you must run this test with the bike assembled as you have to start the motor and measure the phase to phase voltage between the legs of the stator. To do this unplug the line that runs between the the stator and VR and put a multimeter on the stator side. (note the bike will not charge while you are running this test and the bike will be running off the battery only). The spec is 45-55Vac phase-phase @ 3000rpms. If you have a bad stator then one or more of the phase to phase voltages will be much lower then 45v. (Message edited by dktechguy112 on February 16, 2013) (Message edited by dktechguy112 on February 16, 2013) | ||
| Mortbike |
Dktechguy112- thank you very much!! Just to be clear, the resistance test is done with the motor and ignition switch off. Put the multimeter lead on one leg lead of the stator side of the harness and then move to the other lead. For the voltage, same thing just with the motor running. If the stator tests good and I get the new EBR rotor installed, is there any point in installing the Rick's rewind or a new voltage regulator while I am installing the new rotor? Should I leave the recall harness/relay in or take it out? Sorry about the number of questions, I just want to get it right and go riding without worries- thanks again, Mort | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
Mortbike, Yes continuity test is with the motor off. For the voltage test run the engine at 3k rpms. The voltage will vary as the engine rpms vary, as the rotor is on the crank shaft, therefore the shaft speed(rpms) will effect the voltage you read. The voltage doesn't have to drop much, mine went to 38V phase to phase and my stator was bad. "Should I leave the recall harness/relay in or take it out?" There are a lot of differing opinions on this one. The point of the harness is to shed heat from the stator by dropping one of the three phases under certain conditions. Such as when the bike is below 5k rpms. (The oil pump output is proportional to the engine rpms, therefore at lower speeds less oil flows past the stator and it can't cool properly.) The EBR machined rotor is the proper fix, it puts more oil on the stator all the time. You have the increased cooling from the EBR rotor, imo you don't need the harness. If you idle a lot with the harness your battery voltage can get lower, you have to monitor the voltage more. Anything below 12.7V and you are taking power from the battery, which you can't do for a long time. In conclusion I would remove the charging harness, as you should get enough cooling from the EBR oil jet in the rotor. |
