| Author | Message | ||
     1125ccoffire |
my clutch is stuck, lever is spongy and wont disengage, what can i do? | ||
| Kevmean |
Refill it with fluid and bleed it, then look at replacing the slave cylinder with either the oberon one or with the ebr upgrade before it goes wrong again  | ||
| Jdugger |
1. So, when you pull the lever, it comes back to the bar easily? 2. Or, it won't pull much at all? #1 is a common problem. You can get by for now by refilling the fluid in your clutch res, but ultimately you will need to replace the slave cyl in the clutch. #2 is less common, but does happen. Your bearing in your top clutch plate has failed, and you have balls rattling around right now in your clutch basket that hopefully haven't gotten any further. Don't start the motor. Take apart the clutch and drain the oil, and make sure you account for all the parts of the bearing and the balls in the drain. | ||
| Devondunit |
I'd like to weigh in with a question of my own. I just replaced my clutch actuator with the upgraded EBR actuator and actuator pin because that was all rusted In the end. Is the nut on the end of your actuator pin rusty like mine was? it was pretty bad, I had to not only replace the pin but also grind the outside of the nut down and coat it with aluminum in spray. When I opened my clutch up to do actuator I noticed the diaphragm plates where showing surface rust too, I would check yours, could easily be causing something to seize up. Now here's the selfish question part of this: -now that I got it all back together I bled the air till the handle had strong pressure but still when test riding it the clutch isn't engaging all the way, why? | ||
| Jdugger |
The clutch pin and spherical nut is definitely a service item on this bike. I keep spares of them, and expect to "use" around one per every season and a half or so. They are prone to corrosion, partly because if you have the OEM slave cyl, it will leak fluid on them, which is hygroscopic, and promote rust. I use something called Boeshield, and I soak the pin in it and let the wax base cure while I'm doing an oil change. I use loc-tite blue on the spherical nut threads. Honestly, the whole clutch slave is a service item on these bikes, and once or twice a year you should take it apart, clean it well, lubricate it with a good synthetic assembly grease, and reassemble with fresh fluid and bleed. Some "softness" in your lever may also be a MC in need of cleaning or rebuilding. The OEM MCs on these bikes aren't so great, though usually the problems appear on the brake side long before the clutch side. Have you bled the mc at the banjo? Might be air at the top of the line, too. | ||
| Devondunit |
No, I'll try that, the lever has plenty of pull poundage but isn't engaging internally well enough. I'll try some more bleeding. Is dot4 necessary or can dot3 be used? I have tons of dot3 and one tiny bottle of dot4 left. | ||
| Jdugger |
I use ordinary "car" DOT4 I get at the Autozone. Seems to work better for the clutch than performance fluids do, actually. It's like $5 a bottle. Go get some fresh. | ||
| 1125ccoffire |
The lever pulls easily, but wont disengage. Ive started it a couple of times to run it hoping just a little cold and would come unstuck with no luck but I will try anything to get it ready for riding season.. Thank you for the advice... | ||
| Stensg |
Have you pulled your clutch puck to see if there is moisture in there? Its a long shot but I remember a guy having this issue I think he put a hair dryer on the clutch piston for a while and the problem was gone. | ||
| Jdugger |
If the lever pulls easily, it's almost certainly you are out of fluid and just need to bleed the clutch. The reason you are out of fluid is your slave cyl is failing, and it will get worse. Order the EBR part now and limp along until it comes in. |
