| Author | Message | ||
     Devondunit |
I need suggestions.... I had my wife hold a 1/4" rod in the locking hole to remove nut And it worked fine but when I was tightening it up I heard a snap as the engine snapped the tip off the rod. We found that she hadnt inserted it on far enough. I am running the oil I took out through hoping to flush it out and am thinking of getting some engine flush in case it's stuck to something by oil. Also looking for a slim magnet to go into drain hole. Suggestions please. | ||
| Devondunit |
As a side note I would appreciate everyone restraining from cracks about my wife , it's not her fault and she is always very helpful. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
harbor freight has all types of magnetic pick up tools: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result? q=magnet if the rod has "smeared" and is stuck in the crank - you may have to drill a small hole and use a sheet metal screw or easy-out to get the broken rod out ...NAPA usually has a set or sometimes you can buy just (1) that is the correct size here's a set from sears: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM713696 9802P if you have to drill....be careful not to destroy the threads on the access hole...( put a small piece of tubing or at least duct tape around the flutes of the drill to help stop nicking the threads)...and flush the crank with some light oil in order to remove any "chips" - some times a shop vac used while drilling can keep the chips from going where they aren't welcome. the drilling may loosen the part - then it's time for the magnet... if the broken part is smooth enough - some times a small tube duct taped to the end of a shop vac can suck out the broken part (I've only been successful using this method with ball bearings tho...) get a piece of welding rod and JB weld it to the broken stud ...tape it in place...once the epoxy has set try to pull out the broken piece. your wife is a "keeper" - I was blessed with daughters and my wife is my "pit crew" when I go racing - if you have the patience to train them and explain what is needed...mine listen well... and rarely do they question your methods. | ||
| Devondunit |
Thanks for the help, its not stuck in there because I'm able to insert the rod back up in without obstruction sO I'm going to finish the stator install then go back to flushing engine out. | ||
| Devondunit |
I like your shoP vac idea, only thing is I won't know if I got it.... Aargh | ||
| Reepicheep |
You can put a piece of nylon hosiery as a simple filter inline with the shop vac tubing and catch it. That would let you know. Or just clean out the shop vac really well first, it will end up in there somewhere. And my guess is you will hear it when ti goes. We won't talk about how much time I had to spend chasing a locknut for a rocker arm adjuster around the bottom end of a KLR-250 after the dreaded "drop" down the cam chain tower. Sigh. When it was done, I nailed that &*&^%^& to the garage wall as a lesson to other engine parts that may try and run. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
gravity never stops working...! | ||
| Devondunit |
Lol wow! Would it be dangerous if I fill it up with oil and engine flush, then start it for a few seconds to try to wash it down incase it hasn't fallen all the way down? | ||
| Reepicheep |
I have no idea where that thing was originally inserted on an 1125, or where it could go, but I sure as heck would not turn that motor over until I figured it out. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
there is a sump/oil pan on the motor (all tho a very "shallow" one) you have to remove the exhaust to get it open - if you search the forum about oil changes - you may find a picture of the sump and the screen...in hi-performance engines it is "normal" practice to "shield" ( or baffle) the sump from the rotating mass of the crankshaft...I don't know how "direct" the path between the crank and sump is... suggest you pull the exhaust and pull the "pan", us a strong light ( or in the dark) and try shining a light thru the hole or up thru the "sump" - it might give you an idea as to where the bad stuff goes. a parts manual/ shop manual might also help ...to see how the cases "split" not cheap - but you may want to find someone with a "Bore Scope" kinda like giving the engine a colonoscopy (some better auto shops/machine shops may have one)- you may be able to "see" inside the engine without too much disassembly...I know Harbor freight has one, but the quality may be less than desirable. The big company we build parts for builds large turbine engines - they flush their oil supplies/ lines for 48 to 72 hours... Automatic tranny fluid is cheap, it's light weight - possibly your best bet is to hook up some kind of power flush until the part is found...good luck | ||
| Dennis_c |
If you can tape the magnetic on something so it lays on the bottom of motor then spin it around and hope good luck. | ||
| Oldog |
You lost the tip of the crank locking tool in the crank, I would under no circumstances start that engine, the bore scope or a mirror and strong light in the locking hole, the pin could have deformed and is still trapped in the hole, I will be surprised if you dont wind up tearing the engine down. | ||
| Devondunit |
Worst thing is the shaft is in there, sticking out of the engine but bent up inside so now I can't get that out. I think in f'd. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
engine pix: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/581217.html PM the author/photog of the above post...maybe he can shed some light on the cases/crank interface/clearances | ||
| Zac4mac |
I would NOT turn the motor over until you find the nubbin. I dropped a shim while doing the valves. Spent 3 days with arthroscopic/bariatric viewers... colonoscopy tools heheheheh. 65 bucks doesn't sound so expensive now eh? Get the right tool. Good luck Zack | ||
| Devondunit |
So update on my problem.... Toledo Harley has been able to remove the rod by pullin engine out, removing head, pushing rod up( bent at a 90degree angle) to cut with small die grinder. They are now thoroughly flushing the engine and ordering new gaskets for re assembly. This is going to be very expensive  . Not sure of total bill yet | ||
| Devondunit |
Update on my bike: toledo Harley was able to remove rod by taking head off and sliding the rod up far enough to cut with small die grinder. They are flushing debris out now and making list of parts to order( should just be gaskets) but they did not have to split case. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Good news! So did they just cut off the angled bit, and then remove the rest now that it isn't binding? Or did they just grind it flush and pound it up into the crank counting on the bend to hold it in place? I didn't even think about drilling it out... That would be a delicate bit of surgery. | ||
| Anonymous |
The load on the tool tip is really high. It's not a good idea to try to fudge something. EBR makes a tool for this... | ||
| Devondunit |
Yeah basically, I believe he only had to slide it up a small amount to just remove the angled bit then drop the straight part out the bottom. I guess in the process the threads on the engine plug got pretty chewed so they tapped it and replaced it with a larger plug. I don't think there was any drilling required other than the fixing of the plug hole. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Seems reasonable, given the situation (a bad one). Kudos to you for taking it like a man and sharing! I'm sure it will save somebody else some agony down the road. | ||
| Devondunit |
Thanks, my pride has taken a serious beating here,  | ||
| Devondunit |
O BOY DO I HAVE A BEEF!!!!! (sorry if this gets lengthy) Toledo Harley has had my 1125r for 4 wks. They had to completely disassemble the bike to open the engine enough to get to the bent rod but they where able to cut it and remove it. They flushed the engine for two days and put everything back together, said it was done. I went up Friday morning (3 hour drive). Here's where story gets fun. When I paid them they said thy never test rode it other than letting it idle and going around the parking lot so I asked if it blew up on the way home if they would come get me and take care of it. "won't happen" was the reply. "ok but what if something does happen?". "won't happen" he said again. "I get it, your guy is good but let's just say freak mistake and I get stranded then what?". "will not happen but yes we will pick you up and fix it" (irritation in voice). ......I decided to test ride around the block before leaving and less than a mile it started knocking, half mile back and it was banging hard like a hammer on a steel pipe sound. So I had to leave it, go home 3 hours , waste of gas and time. I called yesterday and here's what I was told: Wrist pin came loose and rod now cracked so new piston and rod on order. Worst part of all of it is being without it for so long right in the middle of summer and mornings are already getting chillier! | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
oh dang! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Sigh. Bummer. | ||
| Devondunit |
Yeah, this story has gotten longer.... This should entertain the few who have taken the time to read my long winded story. They called me Monday to let me know I can pick up my bike but I wrecked my aprilia Mille Sunday afternoon and broke my left clavical ( collar bone) into three pieces and am having surgery next Wednesday to have a plate and screws put in. WORST SEASON EVER!!!!!!!!! AAAAAAGGGGGHHHHH!!!!!!!!' | ||
| Rodrob |
Dude! That really sucks. Hope you heal quickly. For future reference, this little notch:  is where the locking tool seats into the crank. So it is virtually impossible for anything to get stuck there. It is also why you must use a rounded, hardened, threaded tool, since so little of it is holding the crank. anything less would shear off or be pushed out. My guess is that your rod was actually behind one of the counter weights, which is why it bent and then broke. As you can see here:  the area where the crank rotates, is isolated from the rest of the motor, save for a few very small oil channels. Removing the bent rod should have entailed removing the head at TDC, sliding the cylinder up to the edge of the rings and then simply fishing the rod out. This requires rotating the engine, but not removing it and certainly not splitting the cases. It is actually pretty difficult to get something of any size down in the bottom of the crankcase. Even something dropped down the timing chain channel, will end up in the side cases. Both of which can be removed without pulling the motor. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Cool info, even if you don't have a Rotax. | ||
| Theshinenz |
At risk of sounding stupid, I am about to undertake the rotor swap, the service manual says insert the locking tool which I have bought, and I see in this picture the slot where it goes but where on the bike do I insert the locking tool, underneath somewhere? I just dont want to do this wrong...Anyone have a picture of the tool inserted (no rude comments lol) Cheers Scott | ||
| Scooter9495 |
 Hole number 3  |
