| Author | Message | ||
     Yugi |
I did it to adjust valves. So the steps: 0. Disconnect negative battery cable 1. remove airbox cover 2. remove airbox assembly. 3. disconnect fuel pump connector, the run the run the engine until it stalls, run the starter for 3 seconds. 4. Disconnect fuel rail. 5. Disconnect throttle cables and pull them out of the frame 6. Loosen throttle bodies (rubber connectors on the bottom of throttle bodies) 7. Disconnect hoses from charcoal canister (California only) 8. Lift throttle bodies, then disconnect TPS and IAC connectors from throttle bodies 9. Remove throttle bodies. 10. disconnect fuel rail from injectors, and remove it. 11. remove the raidator covers. 12. drain the clutch, then disconnect clutch hose from the master cylinder. 13. unscrew clutch hose from the fork 14. drain rear brake. Remove right rider heel guard, disconnect rear brake metal guide line (one coming from reservoir to the master cylinder) on top of the master cylinder, near the brake pedal. 15. remove air flow guide (the cover near the dispstick). 16. disconnect rear brake light cable from the connector near the fuel pump cover. 17. unscrew VSS sensor from the engine (behind the cover removed in 15), and tape it to the frame 18. remove upper and lower belt guards, and the front sprocket cover. 19. Loosen rear axle pinch bolt, loosen rear axle (clockwise). Remove the belt from the rear sprocket, them remove the belt from the front sprocket. 20. Unscrew radiator covers, 21. unscrew the coolant tank, but don't disconnect. 22. unscrew the radiators. 23. unscrew the radiator mounts from K-brackets and from the frame. 24. unscrew K-brackets from the frame 25. loosen bolts connecting K-brackets to the engine 26. Remove the exhaust. 27. disconnect oil lines from the oil cooler and from the engine, pulling the clips. 28. remove oil cooler. 29. Disconnect the wire guide bracket behind the oil cooler from the engine. 30. disconnect front and rear O2 sensor connectors. 31. cut zip ties on the wire guide leading to the rear O2 sensor, then remove rear O2 sensor lead from the wire guide. I actually removed the wire guide too. 32. disconnect horn connectors. 33. pull IAT sensor from the snorkel. 34. unscrew the snorkel and remove it. 35. remove sidestand and sidestand stop bracket. 36. support the engine from bottom with the stand. 37. unscrew front and rear frame mount bolts, connecting it to the engine. 38. unscrew the bottom of the rear shock from the swingarm. 39. disconnect engine harness interconnect connector behind the left radiator. 40. unscrew rear brake fluid reservoir. 41. remove starter solenoid cover. 42. disconnect starter cable from the starter solenoid, and cut zip tie connecting starter cable to the main harness. 43. remove tail bodywork (but you can leave it if you want). 44. disconnect stator connector. 45. lift the frame with the front fork, front wheel and the rear subframe. (Message edited by yugi on January 14, 2013) | ||
| Mcelhaney14 |
IMHO I feel that rotating the engine is easier for doing the valves. I did it that way on mine and, other than seating the rear valve cover, didn't have a problem. I have never pulled the frame just for a valve adjustment, but I did just do a full engine rebuild and pulling the frame seemed like more work with more parts being disturbed. Did you happen to take any pictures? | ||
| Smoke |
lot of extra unneeded steps in your procedure yugi. think minimalist. tim | ||
| Tbowdre |
When I checked my valves I pulled the frame. These extra steps made the valve adjustment procedure very easy. Then I ceramic coated my exhaust and insulated the inside rails of the frame. yes a couple hours more work but less struggle in my mind. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
lot of extra unneeded steps in your procedure yugi. think minimalist. tim indeed. it's i think 3-4 elec connectors and I want to say something like 8 bolts. | ||
| Yugi |
Which steps were unneeded? I think yes, you can simplify the procedure a little bit. | ||
| Baf |
If it really is simply 3-4 connectors and 8 bolts, then I may give it a shot next time. But all I've ever seen is similar to the OP, making it sound like a massive pain in the ass, even compared to rotating. Rotating is a pain too, but was relatively straightforward and simple to do, at least for me. | ||
| Yugi |
I'll try engine rotation next time. But I think it's better to remove the front wheel to get better access to the front cylinder, isn't it? | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
almost makes me want to take mine apart again just to show how easy it is to do it. rusty memory here but there are two bolts on teh K brackets two at mid engine and two at rear engine. rear shock top mount. air box and housing. pop the iat out of the scoop. remove clutch lever/reservoir from bar. big wiring disconnect left side at rear of left pod. starter cable from solenoid speed sensor fuel line just before sensor rear brake fluid reservoir should already be gone but if not fish it through. may be a few things i'm forgetting i haven't done mine in a while and the race bikes are even easier due to less wiring. best done with as close to an empty tank as possible. then tail sections and all it comes apart and walks away on the front wheel. | ||
| Yugi |
How about rear O2 sensor lead? It was hard to remove, because it was blocked by the coolant line, attached to the oil cooler. That's why I removed the oil cooler. Also, I routed front O2 wire above the snorkel. I'd better remove the snorkel, as it's easy. The problem with a rear brake line, that it's blocked by the ground wire. You will need to unscrew the ground wire. Good solution with a clutch line. Disconnect stator connector. Disconnect throttle cables. So you don't remove fuel rail, throttle bodies and a snorkel? This is possible. If exhaust is stock, you can support the engine with exhaust. I don't have stock, that's why I removed it and also the sidestand. Rear left and right frame mounts are blocked by the covers, so you will need to remove those. Rear left can be also obstructed by the belt (not sure about this). To remove the bolts from K-brakets you need to unscrew the radiators and radiator mounts from the K-brackets and from the frame. Disconnect rear brake light connector. Disconnect horn connectors. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
the harness is in two main parts. the engine then everything else. the big connector on the left is the disconnection point. the rear frame bolts come out with the foot guards still in place. caught me on the throttle cables. one of the things i've done is moved a few things around to make the halving of the bike easier. it'll be a couple weeks before i can get to it but i think i will just for the sake of clarifying how i do it and hopefully it'll help a few guys here.` | ||
| Duphuckincati |
All this info is much appreciated by those (me, anyway) yet to do the valves. Thanks very much to all. | ||
| Smoke |
put rear swingarm on pitbull stand. pull exhaust. block up engine to front wheel off ground. ensure engine is stable, blocked to support front and rear.(i cobbled up a wooden support stand that fits under the engine when i put the bike on front and rear stands with exhaust removed.i then remove the front stand.) pull rear bodywork,airbox cover,front fairng and front fender. pull front wheel. drop lower triple with forks installed. leave everything hooked to top triple. disconnect all wires in front of steering neck. pull fairing stay. unbolt rear subframe and rest it on rear fender and tire. disconnect shock. remove radiator covers,remove screws from rad holdowns outer and inner and let rads hang. remove rad mounts and front engine mount bolts. remove airbox and disconnect throttle. cables at front or back. remove air intake tube. remove frame bolts, 2 on each side. disconnect wire connections and grounds as necessary to remove frame. i usually drape the harness that goes forward and through the frame together. shim valves i'll find out if i left anything out in a couple of weeks tim | ||
| Kenm123t |
Tim will you be at Daytona this year ? | ||
| Yugi |
Simplified procedure: 0. Disconnect negative battery cable 1. remove airbox cover 2. remove airbox assembly. 3. disconnect fuel pump connector, the run the run the engine until it stalls, run the starter for 3 seconds. 4. Disconnect fuel rail. 5. Disconnect throttle cables and pull them out of the frame 6. Disconnect tank breather hose from charcoal canister (California only) 7. Unscrew the clutch master cylinder with a clutch lever from the handlebar. 8. unscrew clutch hose from the lower triple tree. 9. drain rear brake. Remove right rider heel guard, disconnect rear brake metal guide line (one coming from reservoir to the master cylinder) on top of the master cylinder, near the brake pedal. 10. remove air flow guide (the cover near the dispstick). 11. disconnect rear brake light cable from the connector near the fuel pump cover. 12. unscrew VSS sensor from the engine (behind the cover removed in 10), and tape it to the frame 13. Remove front sprocket cover. 14. Unscrew radiator covers. 15. unscrew the coolant tank, but don't disconnect. 16. unscrew the radiators. 17. unscrew the radiator mounts from K-brackets and from the frame. 18. unscrew K-brackets from the frame 19. loosen bolts connecting K-brackets to the engine 20. Remove the exhaust. You may leave it, if you have stock exhaust. 21. Disconnect the wire guide bracket behind the oil cooler from the engine. 22. disconnect front and rear O2 sensor connectors. 23. cut zip ties on the wire guide leading to the rear O2 sensor, then remove rear O2 sensor lead from the wire guide. I actually removed the wire guide too. 24. disconnect horn connectors. 25. pull IAT sensor from the snorkel. 26. unscrew the snorkel and remove it. 27. remove sidestand and sidestand stop bracket. 28. support the engine from bottom with the stand. 29. Loosen pinch bolts for the right frame mounts. 30. unscrew front and rear frame mount bolts, connecting it to the engine (left and right). 31. unscrew the bottom of the rear shock from the swingarm. 32. disconnect engine harness interconnect connector behind the left radiator. 33. unscrew rear brake fluid reservoir. 34. remove starter solenoid cover. 35. disconnect starter cable from the starter solenoid, and cut zip tie connecting starter cable to the main harness. 36. remove tail bodywork (but you can leave it if you want). 37. disconnect stator connector. 38. lift the frame with the front fork, front wheel and the rear subframe. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
14. Unscrew radiator covers. 15. unscrew the coolant tank, but don't disconnect. 16. unscrew the radiators. 17. unscrew the radiator mounts from K-brackets and from the frame. 18. unscrew K-brackets from the frame 19. loosen bolts connecting K-brackets to the engine all that's needed for all of those steps is a 6mm allen on a swivel with about 6" of extension so you can pull the bolts from the front that hide behind the fans. 27. remove sidestand and sidestand stop bracket. Why? | ||
| Yugi |
On my bike the right K-bracket bolt is not obstructed, but the left one is obstructed by the fan. I think you can rearrange the fans (unscrew the fans, then rotate and reattach), so they don't obstruct those bolts. Also, you can't access the bolts connecting K-bracket to the engine. I found it better to loosen them, but maybe not needed.
Maybe note needed, but it will be better to remove for better support of the engine. Just 3 bolts in there. | ||
| Smoke |
ken, the plan is to be there. more to follow. tim | ||
| Yugi |
I just checked that the fan rotation is not possible, as the fan mounts are not evenly spaced. I'm planning to reroute the rear O2 sensor wire, so it goes above the snorkel, then, above right K-bracket, so it's not the part of wire guide behind the oil cooler. With this change the procedure will looks as follows: 0. Disconnect negative battery cable 1. remove airbox cover 2. remove airbox assembly. 3. disconnect fuel pump connector, then run the run the engine until it stalls, run the starter for 3 seconds. 4. Disconnect fuel rail. 5. Disconnect throttle cables and pull them out of the frame 6. Disconnect throttle body hose from charcoal canister (California only) 7. Unscrew the clutch master cylinder with a clutch lever from the handlebar. 8. unscrew clutch hose from the lower triple tree. 9. drain rear brake. Remove right rider heel guard, disconnect rear brake metal guide line (one coming from reservoir to the master cylinder) on top of the master cylinder, near the brake pedal. 10. remove air flow guide (the cover near the dipstick). 11. disconnect rear brake light cable from the connector near the fuel pump cover. 12. unscrew VSS sensor from the engine (behind the cover removed in 10), and tape it to the frame 13. Remove front sprocket cover. 14. Remove the exhaust. You may leave it, if you have stock exhaust. 15. Unscrew left and right radiator covers, unscrew left radiator and radiator mount from the left K-bracket. Unscrew both radiator mounts from the frame. 16. Disconnect the wire guide bracket behind the oil cooler from the engine. Not needed, if rear O2 sensor wire is rerouted. 17. disconnect front and rear O2 sensor connectors. 18. Pull rear O2 sensor wire from wire guide. Not needed if the wire is rerouted. 19. disconnect horn connectors. 20. disconnect engine harness interconnect connector behind the left radiator. 21. unscrew rear brake fluid reservoir. 22. remove starter solenoid cover. 23. disconnect starter cable from the starter solenoid, and cut zip tie connecting starter cable to the main harness. 24. remove tail bodywork (but you can leave it if you want). 25. disconnect stator connector. 26. unscrew the snorkel and remove it, pull IAT sensor from the snorkel while removing it. 27. remove sidestand and sidestand stop bracket. Optional, if you're supporting the engine by stock exhaust. 28. support the engine from the bottom or by stock exhaust with a stand. 29. Unscrew K-brackets from the frame (front bolts behind the fans). 30. Loosen pinch bolts for the right frame mounts. 31. unscrew front and rear frame mount bolts, connecting it to the engine (left and right). 32. unscrew the bottom of the rear shock from the swingarm. 33. lower the engine. 34. lift the frame with the front fork, front wheel and the rear subframe. (Message edited by yugi on January 16, 2013) | ||
| Pizzaboy |
dammit we need a way to make this thread sticky!! a few more adjustments and it will be just about dead on!! ive done both methods on my bike over the years. im leaning towards saying the frame removal method is best. for about the same amount of work compared to rotation, you get a chance to really take a look at whats going on without the frame there. plus doing any work on the inner engine is tons easier with it off. this week ive been building an engine stand to make my life extra easy for this exact job. i have a buddy's 1125 that needs a valve check, and mine that needs a new water pump. with the engine stand, ill be able to save a whole bunch of balancing stunts thus saving mucho time~! im going to save this thread, will post pics of finished engine stand, and after im done with it, ill see if i can contribute to the thread further! | ||
| Dualbuells |
So, we have 2' of snow on the ground here above the 45 Parallel in Northern Michigan, so I'm in-process of doing the valve lash adjustment. I have completed separating the frame to make it easy. I didn't think it was a big job since I've been doing it over the course of a couple week ends. Two questions I have 1. can you check the valve lash with out removing the throttle bodies etc. or is it just as easy to remove them for easy access? 2. I seem to recall someone doing a video of the process of doing the valve adjustment., but my search here has been unsuccessful, does anyone have a link that would help? Any helpful hints are appreciated |
