| Author | Message | ||
     Rob04xb12 |
Well I have had it for 1 month and its already in the shop. I was having issues with the engine shutting off when I pull the clutch in at moderate RPM with no throttle. The engine would fire right back up, it was just annoying to have to start it everytime I come off the interstate or a light changes while im accelerating. So I dropped it off at the local HD shop, and asked them to look over it really good and let me know if they spot any problems. I know the throttle cable needed adjustment, and the clutch needed the update since it was weeping. The TPS would read 2.0 in diag mode with a closed throttle. She needed some love. Well the HD tech called and he is not sure what is causing the engine to shut off. He found several fuel pressure error codes, noted that the fuel pressure is lost instantly when the engine shuts off. Apparently there is supposed to be pressure after the engine shuts off? He is doing so other "tests" to try and narrow down the problem. If anybody has seen this issues, please let me know what your solution was. This is a 2008 1125R | ||
| Froggy |
Sounds like your fuel pump or the pressure regulator is the culprit. If it is not keeping the fuel pressure up at all times, it can stall the motor.
That is correct, the ECM maintains fuel pressure as long as the key is on, or for up to 10 minutes after the key is turned off. This is to prevent vapor lock and allow for easier hot restarts, like after a gas stop. On a hot day you will hear the pump occasionally reprime, and if you get a few 1125s they sound like Star Wars Droids talking to each other. | ||
| Dennis_c |
On the fuel pressure mine was good when running when shut off would drop to 0 in about 2 seconds. Was harder to start with low pressure. New fuell pump ok now. Maybe you have low pressure when running. Fuell pump about $275.00 + labor ouch good luck. | ||
| Alter1 |
"...if you get a few 1125s they sound like Star Wars Droids talking to each other. This made me laugh... And it's true. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
...these aren't the Droids you're looking for... | ||
| Two_seasons |
Your fuel pump/regulator is also a 1/1 match to a Ford part # if you're interested. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Is there an interlock switch in the clutch housing, like in the tubers, which shuts the engine off if the kickstand is down or thinks it's down? | ||
| Froggy |
Two_seasons, there is a kickstand switch on exported models, but not the domestic ones. | ||
| D_adams |
And the number is? | ||
| Two_seasons |
Dean, was using the google search engine at the top of this page, but can't find the ford to buell replacement fuel pump info. i've read it somewhere in this forum, but just spent 30 minutes and can't find it. maybe Zac has that number? | ||
| Zac4mac |
Nope, I've never gotten it down to a part number. Lots of vague references to different makers... Best chance for a number, IMO, is Battyone. Z | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
Fuel pump OE part no.: Holden 90 451 593 Opel 815039 Daewoo 96350588 FORD F2A7 9A407 A FORD F7UZ 9H307 BC | ||
| Rob04xb12 |
Heard from the dealer. He cannot duplicate my problem (figures) but says my fuel pump is putting out good pressure and seems fine. I asked him to check the wiring since ive read that the wires have been known to rub and short out. He did find that the steering neck bearing was bad, which is not a big deal to fix. However they want $380 to fix the clutch weep issue!! What!! | ||
| Zac4mac |
Sweet - Thanks Brice | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
np was found here: http://www.ukbeg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=57 94 | ||
| Zac4mac |
Rob - that's not too bad if you're out of warranty. It never was a recall, just a warranty fix. For parts and labor, that's about right tho. Just get the kit from EBR and do it yourself, it's pretty easy. Z | ||
| Rob04xb12 |
I was thinking about just doing it myself. I dont have much mechanical knowledge, but it would be worth it to figure it out! | ||
| Noobuel |
The only hard part for me was getting that stupid circlip out!  Not looking forward to doing it again when my Oberon slave gets here.  (Message edited by Noobuel on December 19, 2012) | ||
| Rob04xb12 |
Is there a nice instruction on BadWeb that someone has put together? Also, I found that EBR has the updated sleeve and pistion, are there any other parts involved with fixing the weeping issue? Id like to get this fixed the first time around | ||
| Kruizen |
Found a great pair of internal c clip pliers at fastenal. Made getting the clip in and out a piece of cake. | ||
| Cherry_bomb |
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| Uh60crewdawg |
As too your stalling issue There is a intake tube that comes off the right side of your throttle body Just a small hose. Someone may be able to post a pic I had this exact same issue and it turn out i had pinched that hose when reassembling once so not enough air was getting through. Not hard to get to just remove airbox. If your dealer cant duplicate he may have unknowingly fixed it while trouble shooting | ||
| Rob04xb12 |
I wonder if this is worth it: http://www.trojan-horse.co.uk/prods/432.html | ||
| Brumbear |
sure is | ||
| Rob04xb12 |
Well damn. I just ordered the OEM part from EBR. Maybe I will upgrade in a couple months. | ||
| Froggy |
Actually the EBR part is not OEM, it is better than OEM. It is the same components that come on the 1190RS. Nobody has directly compared it to the Oberon, but from what I've read you can't go wrong with either option. The Euro guys typically go with the Oberon as it is cheaper for them than getting the EBR unit from the states, and vice versa for the Americans. | ||
| Noobuel |
If anybody is on the edge about ordering the Oberon unit, Trojan Horse/Adrenaline Moto is offering 10% off right now. I ordered mine a couple weeks ago and it arrived late last week. I ordered the Oberon since it has the machining on the back which allows you to use a socket to adjust the rotation and align it with the key in the sleeve easier than the stock or EBR parts. |
