| Author | Message | ||
     Tbowdre |
I used and autozone 250 pound torque wrench and installed the EBR rotor a couple of months ago and I think my rotor is making some noise at idle.... I think. Now my stator went out a couple of days ago and I am thinking I will try to retorque the rotor nut since Im right there anyway. Anyone know where to rent a torque wrench in SoCal for less money than purchasing a harbor freight wrench?? Todd Im 150 pounds.... maybe I will just stand on the end of a 24inch cheater bar. jesus | ||
| Yugi |
I used HF wrench to torque, then returned it back. Worked well for me. I checked Sears, OSH, O'Reilly, Pep Boys and Autozone, and none of them had a wrench which goes to 300 pounds. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
A torque multiplier is what you need. We use them at work quite often. | ||
| Bextreme04 |
i'm in socal and have a torque wrench that goes up to 600 lb/ft along with the right socket if you want to borrow them. I just put in a rewound stator along with the ebr rotor last week with it and it seemed to work great. I also have the locking tool and correct locktite if you need them also. Just PM me if you're interested and we'll see if we can work something out. | ||
| Duphuckincati |
I borrowed one from my local 18 wheeler repair shop. Twelve pack makes them happy. | ||
| Dennis_c |
Hildstrom Posted on Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 11:02 am: -------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Why won't Dennis_c's idea work? He's talking about using an extension along the axis of the torque wrench handle, not the rotational axis. It's the same principle as using a cheater bar or a wrench with a longer handle, but from the drive side of the torque wrench. A 1' torque wrench, with a 2' drive-side extension, reading 100 ft-lbs should be equivalent to hanging 100 lbs off the end of a 3' wrench. Check out these links: http://www.freeinfostuff.com/TorqueExtension/Torqu eExtension.htm http://www.norbar.com/calculators/torque-wrench-ex tension-calculator.aspx http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=1261 18 | ||
| Tbowdre |
Thanks for the replies. Easiest thing is going to be having my 120 pound wife stand on the end of a 30" breaker bar.... Simple and done. Thanks bextreme for the offer! | ||
| Baf |
Retorquing now isn't going to do you much good, IMO. If the nut hasn't loosened up, then the loctite is already cured, so that will affect your re-torquing. If the nut has loosened up, then you're going to want to take it off, clean all the loctite out, reapply, and torque properly. And, depending on who you listen to, you may want to replace the nut as well at that point. | ||
| Tbowdre |
Yes! removed, cleaned perfectly, applied 300foot pounds of torque with my body weight 150# and 24" breaker bar.... and done..... hopefully forever. waiting on stator from custom rewind now | ||
| Zac4mac |
Glad you got sorted, Todd. Very soon, Loretta is going to the shop for some lift-time. Removing, cleaning, Loctiting and torquing the rotor nut is #1. Oil change is really first and last here. oops. #3 is a fuel pump assembly R&R. then a dyno run. The one stator I've replaced was from Rick's Rewinds, on Guambra's bike. Looked top-notch professional build, still doing fine to the best of my knowledge.  Z | ||
| Mortbike |
Has anyone tried the cordless DeWalt impact torque wrench that has a 300 ft/lb torque capacity for loosening and tightening the rotor nut? I have an opportunity to use one and was wondering if it is safe to use an impact wrench up to 300ft/lbs with the locking tool in place of course? I recall one forum member posting a link to the Dewalt tool a while ago but can't find it now to ask him about it. It would make the job a lot easier for me. thanks Mort | ||
| Nuts4mc |
you don't want to use an impact wrench on a shaft supported by bearings...ball bearing will "brinell" causing tiny cracks and/or flat spots and lead to failure - plain bearings will get pounded by the shaft because there is no oil pressure to "float" the shaft- plain bearings are usually "soft" metal which adds to the injury. I've done work on diesel truck engines - torque multipliers are the way to go ...if you can "borrow" one ( truck stops/diesel truck garage) the HF solution would be my second choice...buy it and return it. Please...don't use a Impact wrench - your bearings will thank you...hope this helps | ||
| Hildstrom |
Mortbike, I used the DeWalt 1/2" 300 ft-lbs impact wrench on mine, without the crank locking tool, and I think Jsg4dfan did the same. I haven't had any problems in the 3000 miles since then. That's no guarantee, just reporting on my experience. http://hildstrom.com/projects/buellstator/index.ht ml#rotormodification http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/671257.html?1363033217 Nuts4mc, I think it worked against the rotational inertia of the crank and rotor more than it worked against any bearings. You could always put a strap wrench on the rotor for more rotational resistance if you were worried about putting too much stress on anything internal. Wear metals in my last oil analysis weren't off the charts or anything, but time will tell. (Message edited by hildstrom on March 13, 2013) | ||
| Mortbike |
Thanks for the info Hildstrom! Did you have the transmission in neutral when using the impact wrench to remove the rotor nut? How about the sprague/starter gear bolts-did you need to use the crank locking tool or put the bike in gear, or did you use the impact wrench for those too? thanks again, Mort | ||
| Hildstrom |
Mortbike, I did exactly what was described in the first link I posted for you. I removed and reinstalled the rotor nut with the rear wheel off the ground in 6th gear. Jsg4dfan did it in neutral. Neither one of us used the crank locking tool for the rotor nut. Neither one of us separated the rotor from the sprag clutch, so we didn't need to remove or reinstall those 6 bolts. Since the torque spec on those 6 bolts is much less than the 300 ft-lbs impact wrench, I wouldn't use it on them. If I were trying to torque those bolts with my torque wrench, I'd use a vise with wood blocks, a clamp on my work table, a strap wrench, or 6th gear to prevent the rotor from turning. | ||
| Dannybuell |
Nuts4mc - THX, I learned a new word brinelling. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinelling | ||
| Baf |
My home made crank locking tool wasn't up to snuff, so I did mine with an impact as well, both loosening and tightening. I used an air impact rated for 300 ft-lbs in forward, and called it a day. When I did my sprag clutch bolts, I loosened them before removing the rotor (rotor nut doesn't have to be on, but putting the rotor on the crankshaft gives you an easy way to hold it still). I also finger-tightened them on reinstallation, then did the final torquing once the rotor was on the bike. |
