| Author | Message | ||
     Ros |
Hi people... Sometimes when I shift from 1st gear to 2nd, the typical "clack" sound became not clean, not all the time, may be 1 of 10th changes from 1st to 2nd. Also sometimes when I shift from 1st to 2nd, normal "clack" sound can be heard... seems to 2nd gear is engaged but bike is in neutral. When it happens only happens from 1st to 2nd, never going down from 2nd to 1st. So maybe... clutch problems? low pressure on hydraulics? or clutch spring are weak? or the drum shift is worn? Need to rotate the engine to valve check, so if I need to put all apart to change the shift drum or some gear it's the time. Any advice or help? thanks | ||
| D_adams |
Try changing the oil to a good full synthetic like Amsoil 20w50. | ||
| Ros |
Just changed the oil due to 40.000km service... Motul 7100, Amsoil it's very difficult to get in Spain. Same symptoms with new oil. | ||
| Sl33py |
tough(er) shifts has been a good indicator for me it was time to change oil... was it a sudden change or gradually became worse? Clutch reservoir is full and bled correctly? just some basics - someone who knows the internals may have better suggestions. GL! rob | ||
| Terrys1980 |
If you do not shift fast enough past neutral it will do that. | ||
| Ros |
Sl33py, it was a sudden change, never became worst, but this symptoms appear without any pattern. Yes the reservoir is full, and maybe need to empty and bleed to be sure. Terrys1980, I think a shift fast enough, and by the way, this happens as I said with no repetitive pattern, and some time happen in a low speed shift or in a full throttle and quick shift. | ||
| 1125rcya |
What is the millage on your beast? | ||
| Ros |
The mileage, is 40.350 KM aprox. | ||
| Mako |
mine will go into 2nd then pop out if I dont shift hard enough, usually happens when I wear a certain pair of shoes. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
Are you SURE you're upshifting firmly? As in, pressing upward in a hard and fast motion, until the shifter won't move up any more? The biggest gap in the transmission is between first and second gear, so that's where you're most likely to get a false neutral if you don't shift firmly enough. I find myself occasionally getting a false neutral between first and second if I'm riding a bike where the shifter isn't adjusted down low enough. I always adjust my bikes' shifters so that when I slide by boot under the shifter, my boot rests on the shifter itself. As in, there is no free space between my boot and the shifter when I have my foot in position to upshift. I ride with the balls of my feet on the pegs when not shifting so the transmission isn't constantly preloaded, so having the shifter adjusted low doesn't put any risk of wear on the transmission. My first recommendation is to adjust the shifter to a lower position and see if that solves the problem. If it doesn't, the problem may be worn second gear engagement dogs. Worn dogs can occur if you don't shift firmly enough and the transmission slips out of gear. Eventually the slipping out of gear rounds off the dogs, causing the trans to slip out of gear even when firm shifts are performed. The fix is to replace the worn gears in the transmission. (My VFR800 has slightly-worn second gear dogs--second gear will sometimes slip a tooth on the dogs under hard acceleration. Hopefully this winter I'll find time to drop the motor and replace those gears.) | ||
| Nuts4mc |
25K miles.... clutch plates ? - especially if a) it's difficult to get into neutral b) it "slips" at high speed/high loads/hard acceleration ...if you had clutch weep and failed to fix it in a timely manner - the plates could be inconsistent in the operation.... (some stick some slip) Barnett makes a kit you can purchase but use the stock springs as the Barnett springs are (too) stiff...( or take the plates out( both fiber and steel) and "sand" them ( 320 grit) to take off any glaze or burnt on oil. be careful not to remove too much material from the fibre disks - if you remove too much they will slip ( take the sand paper and tape it to a flat surface - move the plates over the sand paper in a figure "8" motion - both sides - both steel and fibre) ...understand - the longest "throw" or movement is the 1st to 2nd gear shift - as the gear doing the movement and transmission of power has to go through "neutral" in order to engage 2nd...that travel plus the difference in speed and the torque it is transmitting is very hard on the engagement "dogs" ...in my youth all the hondas i raced - we always blew second gear...hopefully Rotax has built this tranny with a good grade of steel and proper heat treating ...hope this helps | ||
| Ros |
Thefleshrocket ok so I'll check how I shift, and try it again... but what do you mean about "the shifter isn't adjusted down low enough"? I foot shifter lever is in the original position, need to unscrew and lower it? Nuts4mc, I'll check, but neither a or b cases are happening now. Well sometimes neutral it's a bit tricky, but not so difference with other bikes I used. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Ros - don't know if this will help - I have lowered foot pegs ( off an Ulysses) it kicks your boot out about 1/2" (13mm) I added a spacer to compensate to help with shifting...  (Message edited by nuts4mc on October 27, 2012) | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Ros- this is what fleshrocket was referring to...  | ||
| Ros |
OK... tomorrow I'll try to lower the lever. |
