| Author | Message | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
     Sprintst |
So I'm seeing a few more items than commonly mentioned to get this job done.
So that's $663.98 so far, plus freight, locktite, oil change and filter What am I still missing here? | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Kevmean |
The fact that the rotor mod doesn't cost anywhere near 425 if you return your old rotor to them  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Sprintst |
The fact that the rotor mod doesn't cost anywhere near 425 if you return your old rotor to them That is exactly what it costs, as shown on my order. I didn't say final costs, hell I can sell the tools if I want after too, which would lower the final cost I have no idea how picky they will be on cores, I always consider that kind of thing like a rebate, basically you are lucky if you ever see it. (Message edited by sprintst on September 23, 2012) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Sparky |
Rotor puller? Not needed as it should slip right off. You'll need a bike stand and straps to properly hold the bike down while exerting 300 ft/lbs on the crank or in lieu of that then, a couple of friends to do the same. If you've ever taken off the muffler, then you probably already have the necessary special tools to remove its fasteners. If not, then factor in those costs too. Or you could just pay the dealer about 2 hrs labor to do the job then you wouldn't have to worry about buying and selling tools afterwards. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Baf |
You don't need a torque wrench. Just use a breaker bar and a little math with your weight. Don't need a rotor puller. My homemade crank lock tool didn't work as well as the EBR tool, so I resorted to an air impact wrench. Not the best idea, but I used it to put the new nut on too, so I can't comment on how much strapping/weight you need to hold the bike down. As long as your rotor isn't mutilated, they should accept it back. Not sure what you're worried about here... this is an exchange service on a part that's usually sealed up in the motor, so I would count on getting the money back. I had my core charge refund within a day of them receiving the package, so no issues there. You'll need two kinds of loctite/permatex. You'll probably want to make some alignment rods to aid in getting the cover on and off. I've done it both ways, and the rods do help. They're no big deal, just buy a couple of bolts the right size, a few inches in length, and cut the heads off. You only need to thread them into the motor a short way. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Sprintst |
aw fudge, what special tools for the muffler? Not seeing it in the shop manual, but it's pretty sparse anyway Dealers too far away, rather do it myself anyway, since I have to inspect the stator to see if it's cooked yet can't get the dealer to tell me if the extended warranty the last owner had is effective or not I have Pitbull stands, guess I could improvise some 2x4's and straps Sorry if I'm a little pissy, but this is probably going to screw me for my trip to the Dragon in week after next, my plan B was to rent a Yamaha R1, but I just lost my 3d HDTV this year, lightening got 2 and I just broke the screen of my new 3D 50" plasma. Expensive month. (Message edited by sprintst on September 23, 2012) (Message edited by sprintst on September 23, 2012) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Kruizen |
I bought a 13mm wrench that was box on 1 side and the rotating socet on the other, getting to the nut on the left side is a PITA. Also you need a long hex head driver to get to the right side - Both of these are at the oil cooler. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Yugi |
Here is my list: From H-D dealer: Stator cover gasket: R0008.1AM GASKET $11.96, or from EBR $13.50 From EBR: The rotor: Y0533.1B6 $425 - $250 core deposit = $175 http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/parts-accesso ries/powertrain/2009-2010-charging-system-rotor-mo dification.html Crankshaft locking tool: B-48858-A $65 http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/parts-accesso ries/powertrain/crankshaft-locking-tool.html Rotor nut: CD0032.1B6 $17.75 http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/parts-accesso ries/powertrain/charging-system-rotor-nut.html From Harbor Freight: 300 ft-lb torque wrench $78 http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-driv e-click-stop-torque-wrench-808.html 32mm socket $4.50 http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ra tchets/32mm-x-12-drive-deep-wall-socket-67791.html adapter from 3/4" to 1/2" $5 http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ra tchets/3-piece-impact-socket-adapter-set-67936.htm l Heat gun $28 http://www.harborfreight.com/professional-heat-gun -with-digital-temperature-settings-97114.html From Amazon: Permatex 27200 High Temperature Threadlocker Red, 10 ml $9.45 http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search- alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=permatex+high+te mperature+threadlocker+red Or from O'Reilly 24026 6 ml $9.49 http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PER0/2402 6/N0489.oap?ck=Search_N0489_-1_2854&pt=N0489&ppt=C 0137 Loctite 648 $11.76 http://www.mrocenter.com/p/2158767?affiliateid=1 I didn't use stator gasket, if somebody needs it, I have one for sale brand new, unopened. I also didn't use loctite 648, because EBR sent me a rotor with a sprag clutch already attached. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Peterpiper |
My shopping list was similar to SprintST's to fix a 2009 1125CR. I didn't use the rotor puller, so you can scratch that. I used about a 6 foot section of pipe on the breaker bar to get me to 295ft/pounds. I computed the exact placement of the 50 pound weight by using a formula that I whipped up (not sure if it's correct, but it felt right) that looked like this: (length of breaker bar/2*Weight of breaker bar) + ((length of pipe/2+distance from pipe end to center of socket(about.5") *weight of pipe) + (off set of 50pound weight should be from socket*50pounds) = 295ft/pounds and solved for the only unknown. Pipe cost me about $15. Not sure if I trust a $77 torque wrench. I also bought a rewound stator from Ricks that died after about 30 miles for $145. Rick's agreed to re-rewind it, but I never put that back in. I'm keeping it as a spare. I bought a new Stator from LakeShore HD for $544 under part number Y0442.2AM. I now have about 400 miles on the bike since I put all that stuff in there, and it's running fine. Hope that helps. Pete | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Dktechguy112 |
don't use a harbor freight tools torque wrench. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Sprintst |
DK - well won't be an issue, since they are taking forever to ship it and I plan to tear it apart tomorrow have to improvise | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Sprintst |
Well, Harbor Freight failed, so $120 in heat gun, torque wrench and socket I won't be needing However, got'er done. Test ride tomorrow, wish me luck Stator had a couple milky poles, and some a bit dark, but it had passed the electric tests both cold and hot We'll see. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Baf |
Also, as a suggestion to anyone reading this in the future, cheaper than a $120 heat gun is a small butane torch. I used one similar to the following, and it worked great. Let's you get the nut hot enough to break down the loctite without heating up the rotor too bad. Should be way cheaper than $100 too.  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Sprintst |
Okay, didn't even need heat, broke loose fairly easily. 375 mile ride today, but pretty cool out Coolant temps about 180 riding, voltage fine 200 F stopped, would drop to 12.4V, but no lower Bike did fine, but not a real hard test | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Sprintst |
Didn't need heat gun Didn't need torque wrench Didn't need rotor puller Did need gasket - ripped original about the 5th time removing and reinstalling ;D | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 2r_300 |
Getting my 09 1125CR back soon. It has 22,000 miles on it. Nothing has been to stator or rotor. So planning to do upgrade. Where is best place to go to get upgraded parts at now??? |
