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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through September 17, 2012 » Real oil leak on the clutch side « Previous Next »

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13was13
Posted on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 - 04:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)




Three screws where loose. Tightening didn't help.
If I follow the manual I would have to to rotate the engine to take off the big clutch-cover and put in a new gasket.
Anyone had something similar? Should I try just to seal the screws first?
Thanks.
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Figorvonbuellingham
Posted on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 - 06:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

De ja vue. I just saw mine this morning. I had about 4 bolts loose. Tightened them down and going to see how it goes. I can't ride it yet since I'm waiting on new tires.
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Battyone
Posted on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 - 07:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bummer...drain coolant and oil,exhaust headers off...so rotate engine,drop shock off swingarm.....big job

Been in there loads of times since I got the new clutch...

Much easier now Albert made me new headers.

They're normally a good gasket tho,suprised tightening the bolts hasn't fixed it?? blown the gasket out???

All of the oil for the crank is fed into the oil pressure switch housing.So you don't want a leak around there.

best to be safe and get in there.
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Figorvonbuellingham
Posted on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 - 07:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hope the case bolts don't rattle loose..LOL
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Battyone
Posted on Wednesday, September 12, 2012 - 07:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't see why any bolts should come loose!

If your bike is vibrating that badly there's something wrong.
Or has someone not checked they torqued them all up??? has the bike been in for updates/warranty work?

Littlebutquick has 3000 drag strip miles on his 2008-making 150hp- that's a lot of wide open throttle abuse and the only issue he's had was spitting a shim after revving to 13,400rom -rev limiter off.

I've probably done 2,000 in the last 12months on a couple of motors.

If you can feel vibration and hear any noise that doesn't sound like valve train,then the rotor is probably loose. But I've had that and still not lost any bolts or had an oil leak.
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Jdugger
Posted on Wednesday, September 12, 2012 - 08:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

> I don't see why any bolts should come loose!

Because you are on a V-Twin and they shake parts loose. It's a fact of life.

Even the I4s do it.

It's why we have safety wire, belly pans, silicone, and all sorts of other fastener retaining requirements on race bikes in practically every road racing organization known to man.
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13was13
Posted on Wednesday, September 12, 2012 - 10:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The bike has done 13000 miles and has gone through some 10 to 15 minute spells driving in the 8000rpm area. It was broken in according to specs and the rev limiter was only hit a few times. I didn't notice any change in vibration or sound during use.
When I did the 12500 miles service I didn't put in the small sponge at the end of the vent tube, as it looked pretty fuzzy and I didn' have the time to wait for the part. But the oil film was there before that, I think.
The screws only get 11 Nm torque and the manual doesn't prescribe the use of a fastener, as far as I know.
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13was13
Posted on Wednesday, September 12, 2012 - 12:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

P.S.
Clutch weep fix and fuel pump replacement were done under warranty. But for that they wouldn't have to take off the big clutch cover? Not sure about all updates
Maybe I should take off the P-clamp.
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Figorvonbuellingham
Posted on Wednesday, September 12, 2012 - 06:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd advise everyone to check them. A few of them I could turn with my hand. I checked the otherside and they were tight but turned to the torque spec.
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Battyone
Posted on Thursday, September 13, 2012 - 08:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

-------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------
> I don't see why any bolts should come loose!

Because you are on a V-Twin and they shake parts loose. It's a fact of life.

Even the I4s do it.

It's why we have safety wire, belly pans, silicone, and all sorts of other fastener retaining requirements on race bikes in practically every road racing organization known to man.
------------------------------------------
No,you lockwire sump plugs etc,you don't have to lockwire every engine bolt.

I've got 1125s with 16,000miles 18,000 miles and a crashed one with 4,800.
Not one of those bikes has bolts come loose.Let alone even the smallest of oil leak.
the race bike had done 16,000 road miles before I abused it on the track,it's also had 3 whole days on a dyno.By the time I had to replace the motor it was rattling something awful,but still no leaks.

I've had plenty of inline 4s and have had a fair few single cylinder bikes too.
Modern motorcycles do not rattle bolts loose.Unlike harleys and old brit twins.

if your 1125 is genuinely loosening bolts,then something else is wrong...assuming they were done up properly
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Jdugger
Posted on Thursday, September 13, 2012 - 09:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My race organization requires one to silicone the entire oil galley, so that includes the clutch cover.

Stuff shakes loose on these bikes. I check the engine bolts a few times a season. It happens more than you are willing to admit, even on well maintained bikes. Vibrations shake stuff loose, and the 1125r motor is inherently unbalanced.

Just keeping an eye on it is the right answer.
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13was13
Posted on Thursday, September 13, 2012 - 01:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Can confirm Figor and Jdugger: none of the screws on the clutch sides were 11 Nm tight.
Fortunately they are accessible and it's no problem to do the tightening sequence.
Hope that will be enough to stop the leak though.
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Jdugger
Posted on Thursday, September 13, 2012 - 01:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's really not a big deal and I wouldn't worry about it if I were you. Just check them once in a while.

It's such a trivial bit of extra work to touch the screws with the torque wrench while the bike is already on the lift and you are tightening the oil screen and filter cover *anyway*, which use the same torque setting...
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Nkvabueller
Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 10:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did anyone figure out what fixes this leak? Did you have to replace the gasket or was some sort of sealant used?
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