Author |
Message |
Lazerface
| Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 10:29 am: |
|
Is this something I should try in my garage? My mechanical knowledge is basic/beginner. I do all my own basic maintenance (oil, brakes, etc.) I've never cracked open an engine. Just wondering if this is something I should even attempt, or take in for dealer service. If I can do it at home, what tools/parts should I have at the ready? |
Oldog
| Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 10:43 am: |
|
If you have a shop manual, and the tools its not difficult to work on these bikes, 1 exception is the exhaust system you will need a jack and maybe some help buy extra gaskets! rotating the engine is fiddley but not horrendus, I had some alignment issues going back in, these have been solved. get a shop manual, a crank shaft locking tool, the correct sockets, consumables (lock tite etc ) and a gorilla torque wrench as the nut goes down to 300 ft lbs |
Oldog
| Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 10:49 am: |
|
parts: red lock tite (272) new nut new cover gasket exhaust gaskets ( the sleeves for the head pipes I assume stock exhaust. ) tools FACTORY MANUAL t30 driver sockets allen wrenches torque wrench CRANK SHAFT LOCKING TOOL (e.b.r.) jack for muffler pit stands or work table.. this should cover most of it.... |
Lazerface
| Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 10:55 am: |
|
Thanks Oldog I'll have to see what the parts/tools are gonna run me, money-wise. This helps a lot. |
Lazerface
| Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 11:11 am: |
|
Loctite 272 - $25 Rotor Nut - $18 (Out of Stock ) Stator Cover Gasket - $14 Exhaust gasket - $8 Crankshaft Locking Tool - $65 Rear Stand - $80 Total - $210 $210 so I can tighten a nut |
Jdugger
| Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 12:14 pm: |
|
That's nothing. You should see what it costs to tighten the nut between the seat and handlebars! |
99buellx1
| Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 01:25 pm: |
|
Dont forget a torque wrench that will go to 300+ |
Battyone
| Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 01:42 pm: |
|
And you'll need someone to hold the bike still while you do it!!! Just done mine,bike in a front wheel chock on a hydraulic bench...whole bench started moving as I torqued it up. How on earth do they do it on a bare engine????? |
Jdugger
| Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 02:01 pm: |
|
When you pull the crank lock bolt and put in the tool it locks the motor up so it won't rotate. The 300lbs is against the crank lock tool and the motor itself, so it's less of an issue. The same issue happens when servicing the clutch. That bolt is something like 225lb, too. I've done it without the crank lock tool, and you kind of shudder watching the belt stretch as you pin the rear wheel to the swingarm with a breaker bar through the spokes.... Yikes. |
Duphuckincati
| Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 02:08 pm: |
|
Lazerface, scroll down to my posting on this thread to find a number of other post about doing the job. May help you to decide to tackle it or not. Much of the info is about the stator/rotor replacement and not just doing the nut, so don't freak out. Although as long as you will be in there you may strongly consider doing the whole stator/rotor deal anyway. I would. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/690448.html?1345649243 (Message edited by duphuckincati on August 29, 2012) |
Lazerface
| Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 02:45 pm: |
|
i wonder what a shop would charge for this guess i'll call, will follow up they did say ive had the charging system recall done...i wonder if they used old tq specs and its worked its way loose again there's a definite clacking, and its buggin the crap out of me. sounds like (really) noisy lifters on a car. (Message edited by lazerface on August 29, 2012) |
Stealthbobber
| Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 03:52 pm: |
|
Definitely tighten it or get it checked out, and make sure it's done RIGHT. Mine was loose from the factory and I heard that clacking as well. My stator nut was almost totally loose when the dealer opened it up. They torqued it to 200, put loctite green on it, and "yanked on the wrench some more since it only went to 200" and as soon as I took it out of the friggin dealership it was making a buzzing noise from the stator area. They opened it up again and a different tech actually torqued it right and did the loctite red official method and the bike sounded fine after. So yeah, nothing other than the complete official method works, and weeks of waiting and being pissed off can attest to this lol. |
Duphuckincati
| Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 04:05 pm: |
|
That charging system recall was most likely just the change in the wiring harness, nothing to do with anything inside the motor. Do it all now and ride in peace. Motorcycles ain't a cheap hobby, but bang for the buck the best. |
Figorvonbuellingham
| Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 06:33 pm: |
|
You mea they arent supposed to rattle, knock and clank? |
Battyone
| Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2012 - 03:33 pm: |
|
Checked mine yesterday...nut not loose and took 200ft/lb to loosen,had to use impact wrench to get the nut off the whole way...even warming the loctite up it was still tight. Cleaned threads red loctite up to 210,backed off,upto 300. Fired up this morning,much quieter. So WTF did they get wrong??? splines too loose a fit? My nut was not loose but the rotor was clacking. |
Crabby
| Posted on Friday, August 31, 2012 - 03:53 pm: |
|
Mines probably loose, and the stator just got replaced. Not worried about it, warranty till 2016. |
|