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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Stator/Voltage Regulator/Charging System subforum » Archive through January 29, 2013 » System Voltage « Previous Next »

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Rtmcguire
Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2012 - 04:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've looked up and down this forum and couldn't find the answer to my problem, i have an 08 1125r and when i start it from cold i lugs and doesn't want to turn excepet when i throttle it. then it starts and idles fine, then when i ride and get on it even a lil bit the display shuts down and reads system voltage, when i pull the clutch in display turns back on and i get a battery light and engine light for a couple seconds then both turn off. is this just a variation of R/R going bad or is there something else at fault?
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2012 - 04:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

a) Chk the battery connection-are the terminals tight? (how old is the battery?...maybe it's time for a new one???)
b) Chk the grounds (one up by the head stock ( small gauge black wires converging to a "connection")...the other is under the swing arm pivot( big gauge black wire ( follow it from the batt)- 10mm hex nut tightening the wire lug on a stud)
c)Chk the ignition switch wires - does the same thing happen when you turn the bars to full lock one way...and then the other....the wires have been known to come loose from the Ign switch.
d)Chk the wires going to the Voltage Reg ( yellow with a big connector - do they looked burned or melted? = Stator or VR going bad
e) chk the VR mountng is it loose - the VR uses the sub frame for a heat sink - it must be secure against the sub frame. if it's loose = VR overheats and fails.
f) the ECM connector ( left side ( clutch lever side) under the POD cover - a large amount of wires goin into the ECM module - check and see if any of the wires with pins going into the connector body are "loose" push them back in - you should not be able to pull them out one at a time without a special tool...

hope this is a start - good luck

(Message edited by nuts4mc on June 19, 2012)
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Rtmcguire
Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2012 - 07:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks I'll try that when i get home
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Uh60crewdawg
Posted on Saturday, July 28, 2012 - 07:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had a simular issue accept i got system voltage and headlights off etc when i pressed the ignition switch to start. Turned out to be a bad connection at the swingarm pivot point ground. I do however still have a issue with cold starts i have to try minimum 3 times i get comm eror system voltage and a batt light then after it cranks all is fine. I'm thinking battery is on its way out. But still im curious what you find out so keep us posted
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 12:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Uh60...it gets "toasty" out here in the SWest - nothing more embarrassing than riding with your buds and we stop for gas...all the rice burners and german machines start right back up ...but lets say... a hot start on a 1125 can make you the first guy they want to hear running after getting gas or the first one they leave behind...I added a redundant ground from the post by the swing arm directly to the starter motor mount - see here scroll down for pix

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/674577.html?1336678989

Also bought a Shorai Li-Ion battery - worth every cent, works great.
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